solenoid catching fire

Hi All. I take care of a Seeburg 100R Jukebox with 13 wallboxes all functioning as they did originally without modification in a small 50s style diner. I replaced the keyboard latchbar solenoid in the jukebox after it burned out and the replacement subsequently burned out a couple weeks later. The story has an unusual angle.

The first solenoid was in poor shape when I started working on the Jukebox. It was partially burned but had a homemade bypass circuit in parallel with it. When the solenoid pulled in, a microswitch would operate and a resistor would be placed in series with the solenoid. When the microswitch eventually failed to operate, the first solenoid burned up - a big smokey event in a restaurant. My thinking was that the solenoid was partially damaged by overheating and the previous guy installed this little bypass circuit to protect what was left of the solenoid. I replaced the burned solenoid with a good condition solenoid and removed the homebuilt bypass switch and resistor. I tested the jukebox a number of times including a heat run test on the solenoid where I made only one of two selections to leave the solenoid latched to see if it got hot. After ten minutes, the solenoid was only slightly warmed up. All seemed fine so put the jukebox back in service. Restaurant customers sometimes make selections at the jukebox rather than the wallboxes so the solenoid gets exercised regularly. Yesterday I found the new solenoid burned up very badly. Before I go through this again, I'm hoping someone will be able to provide me some guidance.

It is possible that someone dropped in their quarter but made only one selection and left the solenoid energized and it could have stayed like that for hours or even over night. The fortunate thing is that one of the solenoid wires burned right off so the fire went out. Otherwise, something far worse could have followed. I cannot risk another fire in one of these solenoids.

Any advice is most welcome (and I need a new solenoid!).

Jim in Pickering, Ontario.

Jim, the first order of business is to have a 3 amp/slo fuse in the 25VAC supply.

To protect the solenoid itself Victory Glass offers a somewhat expensive solution called:
49-1937 Latch solenoid protector boxes (free play) for Seeburg Models A-B-BL-C-G-W-J-JL and R

http://www.victoryglass.com/items.asp?c ... =3&search=

My own solution for my eight V-VL-201-K machines was to add a relay connected to the treadle bar switches that pulls in the latch when either a letter or number is pressed. I've done this since 1988 and so-far; no flare ups.

You could just do away with the solenoid and place sign telling people to press both buttons at the same time (how is that for a "Geppetto fix" Ron?).

Rob/NYC

Both buttons at once! There's a novel idea. I'm going to try that out. I really can't risk a smokey fire in the restaurant. Thank you Rob!

Hi Rob and All,

I've tested the 'two finger solution' and, of course, it works. Thanks you Rob so much for your sage advice!

Jim.

Jim,
The best solution, IMHO, is to purchase a "free play adapter". This will protect the latch bar at all times, even if set for coin play (just "flip" the switch). The "treadle bar switch" will not protect it, if someone just pushes one button, and walks away. I do sell them, PM me if you wish. Ron Rich