Phonoland

I just picked up this 463. It had not played for several years. All four micros and all fuses test OK. Going through it, I’ve proven the credit unit, selector system, write-in arm, play control relay, and both motors work well. Just not necessarily together. I have two issues, probably related.
The gripper motor jammed the gripper tight, over-cranked by the gripper motor, and even after removing the motor I can’t get it loose. The bow isn’t frozen, as I’ve seen this assembly operate after turning the armature shaft before it jammed. Do I have to disassemble the gears on the shaft to get this loose, or is there another way?
The magazine motor wouldn’t start with the #1 micro cammed out, so I tried manually tripping the interlocking relays in the control box. This action will start the magazine in either scan or operate mode, stopping at the home position. It will not move again unless this procedure is repeated. I tried replacing the control box with a known working one with the same results. I removed the read-out arm, and after tripping the relays, the magazine rotated until switched off. At this point the gripper motor (removed) comes on. What should I be doing here? Any help will be much appreciated.
Patrick

Hi Patrick
I would say that the gripper assembly needs to be taken apart and you know the usual story, can gripper be cycled manually if you loosen the gripper motor, did the scan/open switch work initially, maybe the wobble plate solenid and copper spring might be at fault with and affecting play control relay and magazine motor, check plug connections and clean. Also make sure the the wiring is correct on the microswitches specifically no 3 which should apply the brake to the gripper motor
Clones

Thanks for the reply. I removed all four micro switches and cleaned all contacts. On 2 and 2A the common lugs were blackened, and one wire connector needed some work to get it to stay on. Reassembled, I made a selection and everything went according to plan until the gripper started. It almost immediately jammed. I again removed the gripper motor. The gripper assembly will not operate by hand, either. I believe it's gear timing is off due to the motor over cranking it. Actually, I have no idea what may have happened to it before I bought it.
At this point I'm sure I'll have to disassemble the gears on the gripper shaft. I have done this once before on a 442 and I'm still not sure how I ever got that put back together. So before I take it apart, I'm looking for some advise on how to go about it.
Patrick

Hi
(Just thought i'd say, that if the motor plug was plugged into the control box the wrong way around, the gripper would seize as its trying to move in the wrong direction.)
Its hard to describe the dis-assembly of the gripper in words, the only way i do it is have another one beside it and reference it to it, there is a diagram and photos of the dis-assembly process on flippers.com
regards
Clones

Hi Patrick,
I just noted that you wrote "one connector needed some work--" If this is one of the "gold colored" connectors that both RO, and Rowe used, I have found several that once "worked on", will no longer carry current, and must be replaced---Ron Rich

All up and working! Thanks for the tips. The gripper motor was moving in the wrong direction, but the MNL plugs prevent the connection from being made backwards. It was the gripper release and turnover gears. Apparently they had been off before and not reassembled correctly. The timing between them and the shaft was off by one or more teeth, resulting in the micro cam not correctly informed what position the gripper assembly was in. With the bow over the magazine, the gears, as found, would not permit the final movement which pulls the gripper away from the record as it’s placed on the turntable. The gripper motor kept going and seized. So setting the No. 1 micro in the cam slot when the bow was over the magazine did not synchronize the micros and relays. This also caused the mechanical jam.
On the seventies models it’s hard to see these gears mesh since they are in the back and can’t be seen well from either side. But on the eighties models like the 490 the mech is flipped around so the gears and shaft are right up front, so I stopped this one in various movements to see where things lined up. It took a few tries but I got it matched up correctly.
The gold-colored connectors to the micros were OK. The one that needed repair was bent too far open so I crimped it lightly. I’ll keep an eye on that one if problems come up later. After manually tripping the interlocking relays in the control box one last time, everything is working as it should. Went through about a hundred selections with no problems and it sounds great. Nice juke!
Patrick

Hi Patrick,
Who wooda done such a thing ?
On the "gold connector"--I find that when "pinched" and returned to an operating point, the connector, is compromised, and soon splits at the bend point-I would replace it, just for "safety's sake"-- Ron Rich

Ron: that might explain what's going on with the 480 I'm working on. Those connectors are really suspect. I think I should cut them all off and replace them. At the very least that would eliminate one potential problem. Those connectors commonly available (Radio Shack, Home Depot, etc.) aren't gold colored. are these O.K.?
Patrick

Hi Patrick,
Yes--any .187 size ( if I remember correctly ) connector should work--at least better then a "compromised", old, gold colored ( surely not made from gold !) connector. Ron Rich