Phonoland

Hi All,
Is anyone familiar with the auto light-relight feature of a gas stove burner. If so, please PM me, as I have a question---thanks, Ron Rich

Ron, if you're talking about the electronic ignition type of gas stoves, there's a high-voltage module that is activated when the control knob is turned to close a switch.
Then, you hear that familier snap-snap-snap, and see the spark that ignites the gas.
Failures can be in the module itself, or the trigger switch inside the gas control knob assembly.
Or.... the plug is out of the wall. duh.

Hi Ron,

Send me a PM I may be able to help.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Alan,
OK--thanks--will do--

Matt,
Thanks--"plug" can not be removed from "wall" on this one as it is "hard wired--220 volt system" !
Also, the problem is not that it won't spark--it's that it "sparks too much"--
Ron Rich

Hi Ron:

If you mean it keeps clicking, there are a number of causes for this. This site runs down the list of troubleshooting tips --

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/gas-k ... cking.html

I'd suggest you pull the appropriate circuit breaker or fuse before doing any troubleshooting.

JDS

Hi Joe,
Thanks--I'll look at that site--
As for your second suggestion--naw--I loveto be "shocked"---
Ron Rich

I have a stove with such an igniter. You have to turn the control knob beyond the start position to a temperature position to make it quit sparking. The instructions tell you to make sure none of the controls is left in the start position. One igniter sparks all 4 burners.

If you are following the instructions, the the switch on any of the burners is stuck closed.

Since when does a gas stove need 240 volts?

Hi Guy's,
This stove has an electric oven--gas for everything else, including "infer-red". Oven can be wired for 117, but manufacture suggests 230---
Burners on this one are "Auto light"--meaning that anytime any gas valve is turned from the "off" position, sparkers turn on. Also, should the gas blow-out, at any time, the sparkers will re-ignite it instantly. I believe the problem area to be that for some reason the system thinks one or more flames have extinguished, when the problem arises.
The "crazy thing" about this is it can be temporarily "cured", by using the "Fonze method"-- just tapping any burner with a wooden stick (even as small as a pencil) cures it for a long time ?
( aside to Doghouse--I don't cook either--but I hear the dumb thing, and it annoys me)
Ron Rich

Look for some corrosion on electrical contacts to the spark-ers.
Perhaps something got spilled and caused the (intermittant) issue.

I do all the cooking in our house, it is the only way to get something decent to eat, Tan can burn cornflakes!

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Hi Guy's,
Alan--I have ab-sol-lut-ley "NO COMMENT" !
Matt, They are clean ! I have read all I can find on this subject, and it appears to me that an Eddy current is developed when flame is present. What I am un able to determine, from either the stove maker, or the authorized repair person, is how/where it is detected--in the igniter itself must be the first place, then passed on to the cap unit--is what I guess. I don't know how, other than replace parts, to determine which is failing (neither does the repair person, who wants to "change all igniters, and caps"---very expensive !!!)
Ron Rich

Ron, this burner system might be similar to a flame-control-ignition system used in house heating systems.
There's a thermocouple that's heated in the flame itself - this thermocouple generates a tiny voltage that's sent to the igniter circuitry to tell it "yes, there's a flame now, now kill the spark".
Look for a probe, pin, or rod type thing that might be in the flame area.