Phonoland

Ron Rich wrote:Rob,
Where do you find all these lovely images of "rust-buckets" ?
I don't have a schematic here either, but I think pressing the reversing switch pulls a relay, which runs the motor--My memory says that there is a thermal CB, in the motor (which fails !!!), and a fuse, in that circuit (8/10 SB, on the J Box ?).
Ron Rich

Here is another: http://www.vanishingcatskills.us/portfo ... =interiors

This is from an obviously defunct resort in the Catskills (aka; Jewish Heaven). There is another shot of a 1967 R-O (437?) somewhere. It has been photographed several time over the years and seems to be getting worse, When I first saw a pic of it a few years ago it was battered buy clearly restore able. If I were still as enthusiastic as years ago, I go find it. too late now.

Rob

Would like to pick your brains again,had a crazy? thought is it possible to fool the mech without the motor so I can tell if thats the only problem? I know I can manually release a pin and make the mech run. tks Ron

NAPA09 wrote:Would like to pick your brains again,had a crazy? thought is it possible to fool the mech without the motor so I can tell if thats the only problem? I know I can manually release a pin and make the mech run. tks Ron

With the motorized type it is easy. Add credit, select at keyboard then rotate the rocker plate clockwise. Depending on what you have selected and how far it a suitable cog in the rotating plate is from a selected group solenoid, the plate will come to an abrupt stop, you'll hear a buzz and a pin will pop up. After that the changer takes over. Remember to reverse rotate the plate an inch or so to be sure the group solenoid plunger can pop back up.

This works on the '200" and should work on yours.

Rob

You need to have two people to do this, if it's sill in the cabinet--one to push the buttons, and the other to spin the gear--quickly, before the fuse blows ! Ron Rich

Going to see what happens,I had another ah thought could the 75mfd cap cause the motor not to run and just hum?
I plan on ordering a motor tomorrow but would hate to have the same problem.

I would "replace" it and all caps first--also, look for "out of spec. resistors"--
Ron Rich

Wife pushed buttons and I manually rotated clockwise then quickly rotated back the mech runs and stops at selected pin but the mech motor continues to move forward and locks against the pin.I then looked at the carriage switch to make sure it adi and was open/closes as it should.

NAPA09 wrote:Wife pushed buttons and I manually rotated clockwise then quickly rotated back the mech runs and stops at selected pin but the mech motor continues to move forward and locks against the pin.I then looked at the carriage switch to make sure it adi and was open/closes as it should.

Let me see If I'm following you correctly; you were able to get a pin punched by manually rotating the rocker plate. When the mech started to scan and found the pin it jammed instead of reversing.

If so, the reversing switch on the crank assembly is probably malfunctioning and/or the sliprings that connect it to the pinwheel chassis.

Tip a pin to start carousel scan but before the crank gets to that pin push back on the crank as if to stop it. It -should- instantly reverse and start record lift.

Rob/NYC

Check the wires going from the slip rings--I have seen several where the insulation has melted to the lug, but the wire is open, underneath it ! Ron Rich

Thanks again Ron,I cked the slip rings and contacts when I cked the carriage switch and manually closed the switch when the mech was moving. If I understand right the carriage switch when closed operates the reversing relay causing the mech to reverse? I'm going to ck the wiring from the switch to the relay and see if I have an open etc Looking at the schematic I see that one leg of the relay goes to the overide sw and I have already cked them when I cleaned the selector mech and made sure all components were moving freely. When I cked the voltage at the slip rings I had 26 volts across them and at the carriage switch

I think I might have found a problem,the mute switch spring that was missing and replace by me might not be strong enough to keep the mute switch arm against the cam as it rotates.Is this a strong spring? I still have the motor but can still fool the selector

Put a stronger spring on the mute switch and it WORKS. still got to tweak some adjustments and replace the selector motor. Whoopie Without you guys I would never have got to where I am now

Box working as it should but still have to select by hand the motor still just hums.The schematic in the manual calls for a 75mfd cap but I can't find it in the pictorial or photo of the junction box but there is a 65 mfd shown part number 70901 item 28.Could this be it? Thanks Ed

Ed, I looked at both schematics and drawings for 2100-2200-2250. The schematic calls this a 75mfd, but all drawings call this @65 and non-polarized. It is the only one of it's kind in the pan -so, yes that is it. You see odd conflicts in the doc's occasionally. Just go by what is on the component.

Rob-NYC

Guys,
I have seen a lot of WurliTzer caps with a "house number" that also show a "range" on them. My guess is that it "don't make no difference, iffin it's in range"-- Ron Rich