auto light-relight function, gas burner

Hi again,
Alan--once again ---NO comment !!
Matt, the construction is such that there is one "item" only there--with only one wire going to it (may be multiple wires within an individual cable--can't get a schematic from them--part--no, MOST, of my problem !) This has to be both the igniter, and sensor, IMHO ?? Also, a(n unavailable) "special tool" is needed to remove the igniter--
Ron

It would help, Ron, if you would mention the make/model of this range.
Don't be like those vague descriptors online:
"I got a record player, I think, how much is it worth?"

Hi Matt,
Dacor is the brand name--
I did not think it would be to important, as they probably purchase the igniters/sensors, and caps, from the same places as all other stove makers-(China ?)-Ron Rich

If the thermocouple circuit is open, the sparking will not shut off.

RC,
Thanks--I probably should not post this--for some reason, it has begun behaving itself ?
Have not had any problems with it for the last two months, or so ?
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:RC,
Thanks--I probably should not post this--for some reason, it has begun behaving itself ?
Have not had any problems with it for the last two months, or so ?
Ron Rich

I'm so glad it's working for you Ronny boy.
Now you can enjoy your Dinty Moore stew in peace.

Matt,
Don't think I've ever eaten that---unless someone opened a few cans and did not tell me.
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Matt,
Don't think I've ever eaten that---unless someone opened a few cans and did not tell me.
Ron Rich

LOL Ron, it's a tasty stew for sure, but loaded with junk "not particularly good for you" as told to me by a health-nut friend.
I haven't bought it in decades.

Maybe some food residue got on the thermocouple. Then the burner carbonized it and it fell off.

RC,
Don't think so--it's still working--mostly OK--once in awhile it throws a fit, and attempts to re-lite an already lit burner ?
(ALWAYS the same one--which has had the "spark assembly" replaced two times).
Ron Rich

I'm a little late to this party and my expertise isn't in the Dacor product line (I do have 20 years with GE/RCA) but I can add a couple things I didn't see in previous posts.
Like most other things, the key to repairing something is in understanding how it works so maybe I can help with that.

Each gas valve has a switch that turns on the spark module when the knob is turned to the "Light" position. (Typically, the module spark is distributed to all the burners at the same time.)
In a model without flame sensing, the spark is only active when the knob is in the Light position. (Some flame sensing models don't have a light position)
If you have flame sensing, the spark module will detect the flame presence by reading the electrical conductivity of the flame itself. The same probe that is used for the ignition spark is used to measure a small current present in a burning flame. If the flame goes out, the current stops and triggers the module to begin sparking again until it detects the flame.

If the valve has a "Light" position, this will tell the module to spark even if the burner is lit. The switch that controls that usually slides onto the valve shaft, which makes it very easy saturate with fluids when cleaning, especially if the knobs are mounted on top of the cooktop. When you wipe it down with a wet sponge or spray cleaners on or around the knobs, the liquid can run down the shaft and get into the switch. Since this happens during cleaning, you usually have other "stuff" mixed in with the cleaning fluids and over time can cause all kinds of issues with the switch. A good idea is to remove the knobs when cleaning and wrap a paper towel or similar around the valve shafts to prevent liquids from running down them.

The most common reason for persistent spark, at least in my experience, is due to the actual flame sensing. Obviously, this area is prone to a lot of problems. To start, you're cooking food and it tends to make a mess. Even though you have a flame that goes all the way around a burner, the only part that's important to this circuit is the area between the igniter and the closest ground. Successfully getting that 15K volt spark does not necessarily mean this same circuit can detect a tiny current flowing through burning gas - it needs to be clean and highly conductive!

Avoid using any cleaners that can leave a residue, like SoftScrub or Comet, as they can get into the burner ports and gunk up the igniter electrode. Use a toothpick to clean around the tip and other hard to get to places.
Make sure the correct burner cap is on the correct burner, and it's positioned correctly.
Watch for burner flame "blow off" (flame actually extends a bit past the burner ring). This can happen if you don't have the flame set correctly for the size pan you're using. Never rely on the knob settings with gas, always visually check the flame and how it reacts with the cookware. If the flame extends past that electrode, it will spark.

This one seems silly, but it can often create problems and be almost impossible to track down - "something" simply blows the flame from the area of detection. Ceiling fans and/or heating/air vents in the kitchen, open doors and windows, etc. can create an air flow that just nudges the flame from the electrode enough to cause sparking. It doesn't take much to switch that circuit from detect to spark. Again, this needs to be an ocular examination to determine if this is the cause, as long as you standing there looking at it doesn't alter the air flow and stop the problem. Also need to remember that all burners are affected at the same time, so if you have a couple of the burners on and look for the problem, you may see a burner with the electrode fully saturated in fire sparking like crazy. Look at all the burners for issues, any one of them can cause the problem.

Hope this helps someone who happens to look at this thread for answers!

Nelson

Hi Nelson,
Thanks a whole bunch--due to your great explanation, I now see what the problem with this one (out of six) burner is--has been. When the base was "jigged" for alignment, they "missed". They milled out the alignment "holes" for the brass insert in the wrong place. All other burners are milled so the slit in the brass lines up directly with the ignighter . On the one that "has fits", the alignment is such that the slit is off to the side, causing the flame to just barely touch the ignighter . Five, at least, "service men", from their local "contract service" here, failed to figure this out-----( Ignighter has been changed several times). I WILL "fizz this" next week ! Ron Rich

Hi Nelson, and all,
It's fizzed !! Least it "tests OK" for now-- wait till my better half gets home and cooks something--
( I "ground out" the "notches", so that the burner ring could sit the same as all others)--
Thanks Again !! Ron Rich