by Bobby Basham »
Tue May 31, 2011 6:37 am
If that idler wheel has become hard and shiny, like plastic, it no longer has that "grip" against the inner rim of the turntable. That's like a tire spinning on ice and making no progress. It should have a rubbery, spongey feel. Springs usually hold up pretty well. They keep the idler wheel pressed against the inner rim.
I don't know the names of all the parts, but the idler wheel is mounted on a linkage that extends outward (with the help of the spring) to make contact. That linkage could be dirty and not extending completely outward for the idler wheel to make complete contact. Some parts should be clean and dry, while others need to be lubed. The motor may also need to be taken apart and cleaned if there is a speed issue. I found an old book from the 50's on "general" turntable repair. It's helpful if you wanna know the basic parts and get the mechanics on how these things work.
As far as the sound issue(s) go, that could be a variety of things. Bad capacitors and other semiconductors can produce hum. Just because tubes light up doesn't mean that they are good. We have one electronics store in Tucson that still has an old tube tester out in the main area. This is like an old Mom-n-Pop shop that still carries cartridges, needles, scopes, meters and every connection you can think of. Oh, if the ground wire is broken from the cartridge, that could produce hum.
Speaking for myself, I go for the electrolytic caps and test resistors. Caps can leak and get way out of tolerance over the years due to age, and since you have a tube unit, they may be the likely culprits. I've had some caps/resistors register zero while others went way off the scale. It's possible that everything else could be okay.
One good thing is that you have "sound", even though it may be hum. The unit isn't completely dead and there is still hope. I have one small Maggie tube console that played, but had dead radio. Replacing the caps brought it back the life and it plays bright and clear. I didn't (but should have) take the time to check out the other components. It sits in the hallway by bedrooms 3 and 4 (big house).
It's great to be able to fix things yourself, but if you wanna learn stuff like this, you're gonna have to do alot of reading on how things operate and you may have to have some "junk" units to experiment with. It may come in handy if you come across another unit and want to get it working again.
If this is a one-shot deal and don't plan on repairing anything more in your lifetime, it could be risky if you wanna do it yourself and possibly ruin everything. If you don't know the difference between a soldering gun and a kitchen blender, you're in trouble. If you've worked on stuff before like guitar amps, amps/receivers in general, you can transfer that knowledge to record player amps.
The only issue would be the "mechanical" operations of that turntable, since they can be finicky creatures. Some of the parts could be gunked up/stuck and don't want to move like they should, affecting the change cycle and speed. Different areas should be clean/dry while others should be lubed. Oops, I said that earlier.
TECHS AND OTHER KNOWLEDGEABLE FOLKS, I'm not encouraging newbies to dive in and tear up their new acquisitions, just wanna let them know what it entails, because it can be quite a daunting task, and maybe they will consider sending their stuff to a good tech. I've destroyed a few things throughout the years, but it was a learning experience, and new units always showed up down the road. You wouldn't believe the stuff that folks have given me, and I learned from previous experiences of what NOT to do.
On another note, Congratulations, jman2ududer, on finding a nice W620 turntable for your Maggie, and it snapped right into place with no complications! If you need a service manual for that, I can email that to you.
Here I am, babbling and long winded again. --BB
Bobby Basham
Tucson, Arizona
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