Phonoland

I'm having a problem making selections when I press any letter key I get a constant buzzing from the solenoid.It will not stop buzzing till I power down and re-energize.Thanks

This machine has several solenoids. Can you be a bit more specific as to which one?

Cheers,

Tony Miller

Tony,

It is the solenoid to the left of the latch bar solenoid, right behind the letters. I can't find it on my schematics. I think it is the timing relay, but not sure.

I appreciate your help with this.

Tony just a update I think it's the latch bar solenoid the one behind the letters is the same as the one behind the numbers.I noticed on the solenoid that was buzzing the T part that slides in and out the one side of the T looks to be broken off do you think this is the problem?You have to bare with me since I'm a new jukebox owner.I appreciate your help.THANKS!

Gilby;

That probably is your problem. I just looked at my documentation, and I do not have the manual pages for that selector, so I don't think I can help.

Cheers,

Tony Miller

Look for a "Paper tag" on the keyboard---It sounds as if someone's put an earlier keyboard ("Electrical Selector", or "ES) in that jukebox. The correct # ES for the "R" is ES-11. If you have an ES-10, it was original equipment for the "W" & "G" models. If that is the case, I strongly suggest that you send that ES to a "pro", as they are a real "Bear" to get adjusted correctly.
Ron Rich

Tony,Do you know where I can find a Latch Bar Solenoid for my Seeburg HF100R?THANKS!!

Ron Rich I don,t see a paper tag on the keyboard or any numbers do you know where else I can look?THANDS

Ron Rich wrote:Look for a "Paper tag" on the keyboard---It sounds as if someone's put an earlier keyboard ("Electrical Selector", or "ES) in that jukebox. The correct # ES for the "R" is ES-11. If you have an ES-10, it was original equipment for the "W" & "G" models. If that is the case, I strongly suggest that you send that ES to a "pro", as they are a real "Bear" to get adjusted correctly.
Ron Rich

Ron Rich you are correct it is a ES10 my question is I think it is just a bad solenoid?Both solenoids look the same but I'm not sure do you know if they are I seen a electrical selector on ebay that's for 100L wondering if that solenoid is the same it looks like it is.Can I just change the solenoid only?Thanks for your help!!

Ron Rich wrote:Look for a "Paper tag" on the keyboard---It sounds as if someone's put an earlier keyboard ("Electrical Selector", or "ES) in that jukebox. The correct # ES for the "R" is ES-11. If you have an ES-10, it was original equipment for the "W" & "G" models. If that is the case, I strongly suggest that you send that ES to a "pro", as they are a real "Bear" to get adjusted correctly.
Ron Rich

I doubt that the solenoid is bad. They usually don't fail in that way. Vern Tisdale (http://www.verntisdale.com) sells them, as well as other suppliers. Yes, just the solenoid can be changed--but it is NOT a job for a "newbee" on that model selector ! Ron Rich

came across this forum
have a 100R - know the problem
easiest solution : buy a free play adapter ( $50.- on Ebay )
a cheaper solution is placing 2 contact blades in the keyboard layout
would take too long to explain it all
go for the free play adapter : deactivates also if only 1 letter or number is
activated too long ( prevents burning of the solenoid )
regards A.Bruinenberg ( Netherlands )

Hi Guys,
I sell that "freeplay adaptor" also--and yes it's great at saving a latch bar solenoid, but it will not "fix" your bad solenoid. My advise would be to have someone who has changed a solenoid, on that model, many times, change the solenoid, and then purchase the adaptor. The "system" must be working right prior to adding the adaptor. Like I said before--that ES-10 is the worst model (in my opinion) to change the solenoids on, as you must "un-adjust" it in order to remove & replace the solenoid.
BTW: There is another "free play plug" on eBay, for less money--I do not recommend the use of that one at all , as in my opinion, anything that keeps the solenoid energized, can be a fire hazzard. I've re-wired quite a number of systems after the solenoid shorted out. The solenoids used by Seeburg were designed for intermittant duty only.
Going back and re-reading the the original post--I'm wondering if we may have gotten "off track". If the solenoid "pulls in" when power is applied, and "falls (all the way) out when powered off, the solenoid is working as it should. The "buzzing" can indicate either a failing (but not failed-yet) solenoid, or a mis-adjusted solenoid. If the solenoid will not release (power "stays on"), you have a problem somwhere else in the ES, or most likely the CCU. Ron Rich