Phonoland

Hi,

I am in the process of restoring a Wurlitzer 1100.

I need to replace the shielded cable from my tone arm to the amp as it has been damaged sometime in it's life.

I am having lots of trouble making the solder 'stick' to the braided cable where I join it onto the plug (the solder works fine for the center cable). It tends to make a messy blob with little adhesive to the braided section.

Is there a special technique or do I require a different type of solder?

The solder I am using has worked fine for years on all other applications.

Regards

Gordon....

Hi Gordon: if you are meaning the outside braiding, then I have found it best to unweave a section of it. then when it is free tie it back and twist it. two things happen then, the heat soak doesn't take the temperature for melting down to far. since solder wicks up it has a much smaller surface area to get into. hope this helps. Mark

Gordon, Mark--
Mark, that works well if the shield is wire. But if "tinfoil", there still is not enough "surface" for solder. In that case, I use a cut-off, Molex pin designed to fit into a nylon housing, and crimp a bit of wire to the foil. This gives me a soldering "surface".
(tinfoil--pin missing it's head {crimp section only}, wire sticking out, where the head was) Ron Rich

Thanks guys.
I followed your advice and I got it soldered well.

Ron, The braided wire is the wired wrapped style from a Wurlitzer 1100.

Another question, the original braided cable it about twice the thickness of the new cable.

Will it still work as well?
As I am still restoring the jukebox (and have not completed the amp yet), I am unable to test it.

Regards

Gordon..

Gordo wrote:Thanks guys.
I followed your advice and I got it soldered well.

Ron, The braided wire is the wired wrapped style from a Wurlitzer 1100.

Another question, the original braided cable it about twice the thickness of the new cable.

Will it still work as well?
As I am still restoring the jukebox (and have not completed the amp yet), I am unable to test it.

Regards

Gordon..

In such things as jukeboxes, the tonearm wire size isn't really important.
Thinner is better, and provides more flexibility/less "drag" for the tonearm, even though those 1100 suckers track at heavy forces and have crude tonearm pivots. (a drop of oil doesn't hurt there)

As far as the amp section, it's wise not to power it up until its been thoroughly gone over, Capacitors replaced, resistors checked, and all bias readings are in check, and voltages are all within the limits of the tubes.
These older jukes were designed for 110-115 volt AC lines, and todays 125 volt service tends over-volt the amps, making tubes cook hotter, parts stressed more.
They ran them at "limits" in the 40's, so it's wise to note this little detail today.
I always seriously consider this when restoring anything "older", and make the appropriate "modifications" to insure long-term reliability.

Thanks MattTech,

The amp is with a technician at present so I am waiting until he completes the work before I power it up.
I'm just working on the mech and getting things prepared.

As I live in Australia, I have a 'step-down' transformer to lower the voltage from 240 volts to 110 volts.
I also need to change the gears for the 60Hz to 50Hz power change (or the records sound like they are being sung by chipmunks).

I'm slowly getting there, but still lots to do.

Cheers

Gordon..