Packard-Bell RPC-39 Solid State Stereo c. 1966

Ron Rich wrote:Gotta dis-agree here--"paper" type do "age" ! Ron Rich

Depends on how they were made and used.

If the paper is acid-free, sealed from any external attacks, not overheated, and not subjected to overvoltage, it lasts forever.

Paper washed in acid slowly deteriorates.
If the seal is less than perfect, the paper oxidizes.
If the sealant is wax and it is allowed to overheat and soak into the paper, the value and maximum voltage changes.
If the capacitor is overheated to the point where it affects the paper, the capacitor can short.
If the leads were overheated when the capacitor was installed, the paper is damaged, and the internal connection might be.

Hi, I just purchased the same stereo.... I also need a needle for my record player... could you suggest what type and where to buy one?
Also, I'm looking for a manuel for this. I looked on ebay but I haven't had any luck....
I would be willing to purchase a copy...
is there a way to hook up an MP3/Ipod to the auxiliary?
Any advise would help
Thanks, mcmgirl1959

where did you find this PB for $85.00 ... thats amazing...

Hi MCM girl! I love mid-century stuff too. My RPC-39 was a Craigslist find.

Bobby Basham here at Phonoland can help you find a suitable needle. Look at the cartridge under the end of the tone arm and report back with any identifying words or numbers you find.

The turntable is a Garrard AT5LM. Its "manual" was a paper sheet installed on the turntable. The only reference I've found is this picture: http://bit.ly/K8rmZJ

To play MP3s, just connect any player to the "Tape PLAY" jacks and select TAPE at the console.

Before you can operate this stereo, however, you will have to hire a repairman to restore it. Its radio and amplifier section uses vacuum tubes at high voltages. The parts that drive these tubes deteriorate with age; if they fail, the entire stereo can be ruined.

El Ramos wrote:Hi MCM girl! I love mid-century stuff too. My RPC-39 was a Craigslist find.

Bobby Basham here at Phonoland can help you find a suitable needle. Look at the cartridge under the end of the tone arm and report back with any identifying words or numbers you find.

The turntable is a Garrard AT5LM. Its "manual" was a paper sheet installed on the turntable. The only reference I've found is this picture: http://bit.ly/K8rmZJ

To play MP3s, just connect any player to the "Tape IN" jacks and select TAPE at the console.

Before you can operate this stereo, however, you will have to hire a repairman to restore it. Its radio and amplifier section uses vacuum tubes at high voltages. The parts that drive these tubes deteriorate with age; if they fail, the entire stereo can be ruined.

Incorrect.
If you view the photos carefully, you'll see that the words "Solid State" on the radio clearly show.
That means, no tubes.
However, a service tech should still go over the unit to insure that the decades of neglect do not cause a future malfunction.
"Age takes its toll".

MattTech wrote:

El Ramos wrote:Before you can operate this stereo, however, you will have to hire a repairman to restore it. Its radio and amplifier section uses vacuum tubes at high voltages.

Incorrect.
If you view the photos carefully, you'll see that the words "Solid State" on the radio clearly show.
That means, no tubes.

Incorrect. If you view the thread carefully, you'll see that I listed the tube types I found on the radio and pre-amp sections inside.

The "Solid State" label on the front panel merely advertises that the console contains solid state parts (on the amplifier, in this case) and doesn't guarantee that the console is all solid-state.

Consider it a 1966-era example of marketing speak.

"Market speak"--in the land of "Radio"--why, I would have never---- Next you will tell us that the guys that were selling these in the 60's, sell used cars today--or maybe they are politicians ? Ron Rich

Ron, we've actually taken a big step backwards in the last decade when it comes to 'honest watts' in amplifiers.

All of those "1200 watts" HTIB systems that barely make 20-30 w/rms/ch when put under actual bench tests.

One of my Thai friends was very impressed with the proclaimed rating on a Sony HT system I'd found and repaired. It claimed (600 watts) the bass channel barely makes it to 50W.

I pointed out the total power consumption on the back plate: 190 watts@120vac. For the claimed power output the system would therefore be approx 300% efficient! -Does not happen. I showed him an ADCOM commercial power amp that is 200rms/ch and consumes 960 watts at full power, that is reality.

We were on the right track back in the mid-seventies when the FTC spec'ed RMS into the specified load for a continuous period of usage.
In the '00s certain 'business friendly" pols have allowed lies to creep back into our industry.

Rob/NYC

Rob-NYC wrote:Ron, we've actually taken a big step backwards in the last decade when it comes to 'honest watts' in amplifiers.

All of those "1200 watts" HTIB systems that barely make 20-30 w/rms/ch when put under actual bench tests.

One of my Thai friends was very impressed with the proclaimed rating on a Sony HT system I'd found and repaired. It claimed (600 watts) the bass channel barely makes it to 50W.

I pointed out the total power consumption on the back plate: 190 watts@120vac. For the claimed power output the system would therefore be approx 300% efficient! -Does not happen. I showed him an ADCOM commercial power amp that is 200rms/ch and consumes 960 watts at full power, that is reality.

We were on the right track back in the mid-seventies when the FTC spec'ed RMS into the specified load for a continuous period of usage.
In the '00s certain 'business friendly" pols have allowed lies to creep back into our industry.

Rob/NYC

Indeed that's a shame, really is.
The overinflated ratings GAME does nothing but sell crappy products that can't hold a candle to a good honest product.
As pathetic as lying about your penis size size to gain, ahem, respect and envy.
Sad superficiality.
Sad.

Guy's,
Don't know if this is all true or not, but from what I have heard, this goes back to what was termed the "tube wars" of the 30's.
Seems one radio maker added several tubes to his product and claimed that the added tubes made his radio "better". Along comes maker # 2 and looks at it and realizes that maker # 1 just stuck some tubes in to see them light-up--only the filaments were wired--and in parallel--So--he buys several of this brand, pulls out the tubes and displays them, telling the "publick" that this is a scam---of course, then someone comes up with a series wired set of tubes--and it just got worse from there on--- Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Guy's,
Don't know if this is all true or not, but from what I have heard, this goes back to what was termed the "tube wars" of the 30's.
Seems one radio maker added several tubes to his product and claimed that the added tubes made his radio "better". Along comes maker # 2 and looks at it and realizes that maker # 1 just stuck some tubes in to see them light-up--only the filaments were wired--and in parallel--So--he buys several of this brand, pulls out the tubes and displays them, telling the "publick" that this is a scam---of course, then someone comes up with a series wired set of tubes--and it just got worse from there on--- Ron Rich

Rich, not only that, but even in the transistor era of the '60s this "scam" went on.
Adding non-functional transistors to radios in order to "beef up" the count.
Four to six transistors is all an "AM" set needed to operate, perhaps seven, rarely eight..... anything over that is suspect.

Hey all,

I am new to this forum. I have this EXACT unit. I got it at a used furniture store in Portland 3 years ago for $150.00. Everything worked great at first, including the turntable.
However, after a few months, it started making this low-pitched very loud hum when I would turn it on.

I noticed that the hum was coming from the left speaker, so I detached it and there is now just a slight higher pitched buzz sound that easily gets drowned out when the volume is increased.

Any thoughts on which parts need replacement and where to get them?

Thank you so much -)

-Jeff

Hi Jeff,
I have no knowledge of this model, but as a "general rule", it is un-wise to continue to power it up--
The "hum" indicates that something electronic has probably failed--or is darn close to failing. Dis-connecting the speaker will prevent you from hearing it--but not protect the unit from further (possibly catastrophic) damage, including a fire.
I strongly suggest a "pro" is needed here---
Ron Rich

hey there.. i purchased this unit a while back in excellent condition. sounds great except..

once in a while, randomly, the speakers will "short out" while listening to vinyl. and vinyl only. if i plug my iPad into the console or use the radio, everything sounds fine.

what i mean by "short out" is the bass/large speaker will drop off on one side and/or a tweeter/small speaker will do the same on the opposite side. this doesn't happen all the time, sometimes it won't happen for months. sometimes it's constant for days. but again, if change to a different source (tape input, radio etc) the speakers sound just fine.

it appears to have something to do with the tonearm. while this "short" is accuring, if i tap the back of the tone arm gently, i can hear the speakers come in and out. loose wire? something simple i'm sure but i'm not at all electrically inclined.

any help?

IMHO, you should have it professionally serviced-- that being said, with the power off, lift the tone arm and look at the cartridge connections. In most cases, they are a "slip-on plug". See if one or more is "loose" or if any are touching anything else. If so, take corrective actions, as required--that's all I can think of--
Ron Rich