2304 Chassis motor questions

Hi, I am a newbie that is used to refurbishing EM pinballs, but decided to give a Wurlitzer 2304 a try. The one I bought had hosted several rat parties and I have put a good deal of effort into refurbishing. Cabinet painted and laminated, lamp fixtures rewired, one speaker reconed and lots of rust removed and repainted, amplifier and junction box recapped.

I have gone through the select switching and mechanism thoroughly and that is working well with correct fingers coming up.
1) I push silver free play switch on selector panel and realy in coin mechanism activates - red select light comes on
2) I make a selection and correct finger comes up
3) Coin mech relay resets, select light goes out
4) Override relay engages when select pin comes up
5) Turntable motor starts spinning

Chassis motor does nothing. I have gone through and tested
1) Transfer switch
2) Load switch
3) Motor switch
4) two micros switches on junction box

Measuring at connector on junction box, the chassis motor appears to have 18 volts across one pair of contacts and the other two have 18 VAC to gnd, but o between contacts.

[b]My questions are - does this sequence sound right - push free play button and get one play? Should I pull off the chassis motor and test? How is best? I am just getting stuck at this point and would appreciate a few tips.

Thanks! Bill in Dallas area

P.S. I've got pictures of my progress at this shutterfly site
https://billswurlitzer2304project.shutt ... m/pictures

Hi Bill,
Going from my great, but not too long memory---
That motor has a field coil as well as armature brushes--it's a DC motor and requires "nominal 24 VDC", on both sections, to operate. A"poor" power supply, relay, switches and plug connections, can be causing that problem. Just need to trace and find the problem.
Yes-One play per "push" of the free play button is correct, on that model, as that button only fires the "select relay", but does not accumulate credits..
Ron Rich

Bill, here are two functional schematic of that era's 104 mechs:

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... sort=3&o=7

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... 0.jpg.html

They are of models 2104 & 2204 but other than the plugs on the 2300 series the wiring is the same.

The changer motor is DC both field coil and armature.

Trace out and measure the voltages at the 4-pin motor connector itself. Under load the DC supply may sag to around 22VDC but if you are seeing anything lower it is time to replace the rectifier.

BTW: That is quite a job you've done on that machine. I hope it is grateful

One question here: Why are there new capacitors on the backside of the amp's PC board?

Rob/NYC

Thanks Ron and Rich, you guys are amazing on suggestions. You've got me pointed me in the right direction. The rectified supply voltage is around 32VDC so. Checking again I've got 32 across the field coil, but 0 on the motor. Time to run through the whole path and see what I am missing.

I installed the caps on the flip side of the board because access and space was so much better. Rang everything out very carefully so feel ok on the cap job.

Thank you very much! Bill

Thanks guys! You pointed me in the right direction. Had a cold solder joint between the motor switch and the motor connector inside the junction box. Wired it up and now it is running nicely through the play sequence. I had been using the wiring diagram and I found the functional diagram to be much easier to follow.

Now I just need to work through a couple items - the big one being a deafening amplifier hum.

I appreciate your help,

Bill