Seeburg LPC-1 won't run

Hey all.

I'm very new to jukeboxes and have always wanted one - I was recently given a seeburg LPC-1 Juke with all parts except totalizer (Which I've read isn't needed to make it run) - When I plugged this sucker in, only the lights work. I took everything apart and noticed the fuse on the Tormat unit was blown. Also noticed that it was supposed to be a 15 amp fuse and there was a 10 there. I replaced the 15 amp fuse, cleaned the contacts with deoxit (Relay contacts in tormat and visible ones that i could get to on the carriage). I plug everything back in and everything lights up and i hear a buzzing noise now - The buzzing noise comes from the Album Pricing Unit, and I also noticed the "Single credit" light is constantly on. It alows me to make a selection but when I do, nothing happens. I followed the diagnose instructions via the troubleshooting manual and it lead me to either the reversing relays on the carriage mech or the Motor Capicitor is open, or the motor is failing/binding .

When I hit the service switch, the carriage does not run at all, same result as when i try to make a selection. I do here a click or something from the tormat when you make a selection or try the service switch. Also the Motor on light on the tormat does not light up. All tubes seem to be lighting up, no fuses are blown that i can see -

Any Ideas? Would love to get this up and running again -

Any help would be appreciated - I do have some knowledge with electronics. I do have all the manuals for this, etc -

Nick

Nick,
My best advise is to UN-plug the phono, sit down and READ the Service Manual.
If that 15 A fuse was blown, there were significant problems somewhere in the phono, that must be diagnosed to prevent further damage--like a fire-or burned up transformer ??? A 10 amp fuse should work "just fine" in that circuit.
The motor operates on "110 volts" household voltage, "hyped up" by the motor run cap, and (when in circuit), the ASU cap. Testing should be done "carefully" as you can be injured if you don't understand what you are doing ! The "best way" is to use a meter designed for that purpose, and follow the schematic, starting at the reversing relay, and working in the direction that has no power, back to the power source. Ron Rich

Thanks Ron Rich, I"ll have to sit down and try that - I did put a new 15amp fuse in and it doesn't blow, it seems to be fine. Something must have happened to make the fuse blow out - The guy that gave it to me said that a few months ago, when he would hit the service switch, the carriage would cycle -

As far as using a meter, i should be able to see what each value should be on the schematic and be able to measure the parts on the carriage with a meter, and compare, correct? It looks like the fuse on the carriage is ok, but I have to test that with a meter as well -

Also, do you think its the carriage, could it be possibly anything else that I"m missing?

Frankly, your response is "frightening me"--If you do not know how to use the meter, do not do it, as I do not want to hear that you got "hurt"--or worse--
Get some "pro" help ! Ron Rich

I know how to use a meter - I was just confirming that with the meter, I should be able to make sure everything compares to the print in the service book -

Hey Ron,

I am looking at the schematic supplied in the Mechanism manual for Carriage Mech - It looks like power comes from 1 relay, goes to the capacitor, then goes to Reverse relay, then to the motor - Its hard to see, this schematic was given to me on a disc, and the resolution isn't so great - It's hard to read the values on the schematic and trace circuits (Its on the blurry side) Could a bad Capacitor cause the unit not to go and blow out the tormat fuse?

Im thinking I may need to try to track down an origial service manual that is more readable -

Yes--but--do you have AC at and through the relay ?==and yes--a "hard copy" Service Manual is better--
Ron Rich

I'm going to check the relay tonight if possible - Work has been running late this week - It seems to be that there is no power going up to this unit period - When you hit the service switch, the relays on the Tormat fire up, which I assume sends power up to the carriage - Id assume that there should be power going to that relay on the carriage -

Unfort, besides this message board, I"m on my own while fixing this unit - I knew of 2 jukebox guys in my area, but they have no knowledge of the lPC-1 and have no desire to help me with it or to repair it at any cost - So I'll have to take it one step at a time -

Question, the guy I did speak to on the phone that works on 40's & 50's seeburgs, told me that if the autospeed unit fails, then the carrage won't fire period, even if I hit the service switch, is this true?

Nick

Nick,
Mostly false--only true if in play position, with the ASU relay energized--if energized, jam something in it to hold the armature "up". (If you ant to purchase a copy of my Seeburg Mechanism Guide, PM me)
Ron Rich

Hey Ron -

I'll have to send you money for the mechanism guide - Today I used a burnishing tool on all relay contacts on the mechanism and its still a no go - but I notice now that the Reverse switch relay will spark when i manually trip it, so there is power going through the relay contacts when they hit, and when I manually trip that reverse switch, i notice it fires up the other relay above it that the trouble shoot manual told me to check, but when that relay fires, i notice no sparks happen when the contacts touch in either direction, so it looks like no power is going through the contacts at all, but at least it indicates that there is power getting to the mechanism somewhere - also, I'm wondering if the Can Capacitor is bad.. if it was bad, could it cause my problem? The troubleshoot manual had me do the test with jumper wire on the tormat unit, and it said that its either the Relays on reverse switch, the other relay I cleaned, the capacitor or motor. What is the best way to test that capacitor? I'm thinking I may try to track down a replacement and replace anyway-

Nick,
I am not sure of the terms you are using--what are you calling "relays" ?
The "relays" in the TCC are the two units sitting side by side, with multiple contact blades on them. The "scan control assembly", while it does function to supply motor power, as a "relay" is generally not referred to as a "relay". I am not sure, but I do not think you would get a "spark" at the Reversing Relay Contacts, if the motor cap is bad.
I have motor caps for sale--contact me off list, if you wish--
Ron Rich

Also, I think I"ve seen this topic on here before, but can't find it -

I notice that when I plug my LPC-1 in, the Credit lamp is always lit and it allows me to make a selection without adding money and the Pricing unit makes a loud noise - It seems that someone rigged it for freeplay, and I've been told this is bad because it overheats certain things (Solenoids, etc) -

Anyone have any ideas of how to unrig it for freeplay? I'd like to have the jukebox run on the coins again and prevent the thing from burning out

Nick

Nick,
Send me a photo of the credit unit--and maybe I can see what has been done to "free play" it.
Yes--that's usually not a good idea for Seeburgs with electro/mechanical pricing units--
Ron Rich

i will have to take a photo after work - thanks!