Phonoland

Massive thanks for replies plus apologies to Rob for not paying proper attention.Had bridged the wrong terminals,suppose I'm lucky I didn't fry it.Anyway I now have mains to the mech.Scans fine(bear in mind the other receiver did scan but making a selection always just resulted in the scan twice and park thing).What I now have is:make a selection and it detents and plays immediately(obviously on the extreme RH end if I let it park normally first).Making another selection causes the current record to reject and the mech to scan(it doesnt detent at the second selection).It doesnt actually stop at a selection made on the ES.I had already changed resistors,caps etc,set detent switch,nice healthy flicker at the OA2s while scanning.Pulling the pulse amp tube causes immediate detent.I had already done the test of plugging the rca into an amp and could hear the ticks while scanning.any suggestions?Must admit there is a wealth of info out there but none so far have done the trick.Have to now make up an on/off and cancel switch for this receiver.
Mick

Hi Mick,
Progress !!
You now either have a "dirty keyboard", or" dirty write in switch, INSULATOR", problem. You also may have problems internal to the pulse amp. --you do have a new, good, 12ax7, installed in it? I am assuming that all resistors in the TSU have been checked/replaced as needed !
Ron Rich

Hi Ron yes certainly a step forward.I have the original 22 pulse amp and another blue one from a later model.Have changed the caps and resistors often suggested and tested the others.I have several 12ax7s also.In fact several 2050s,6x4s and OA2s.I arent 100% happy with the ES.I removed it and steam cleaned it after degreasing but maybe do it again.Sometimes when I press a letter and number button there is a lengthy delay before the latch lets go and the mech sets off(remember I have no original credit unit just the transistorised replacement.
Mick

Credit/freeplay unit was from jukeboxeverynight in Wisconsin.Credit lamp is and and solenoid pulls in with first key press.Seems fine.
Mick

Mick,
I have found those free play adaptors to be VERY reliable---I have sold many over the years-only one failed after a few days--(cold/dry solder connection, inside the plug).
So, IMHO, that leaves the TES as the prime suspect. The Cinch-Jones plugs, between the TSU, and TES, also can be the problem--If you have a can of "Deoxit-5", spray the plugs, follow the directions on the can. If that does not solve the problem, I think you're going t need to remove the TES, remove the meter(s?) and latch bar solenoid, then wash it, in hot sudsy ammonia water-rinse totally--dry totally before using !! Ron Rich

Mick, these erroneous tripping problems are usually resistance in the grounds of either the shell of the pulse amp plug, or the ground/feedthrough connections on the Jones plugs as seen here:
http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=2&o=58

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=2&o=59

The fact that the mech trips indicates that the pulse amp and trip tube are likely OK. However, before going further, try the "battery test" to make sure that the mech can trip by reading out the Tormat. Place the negative end of a good AA-C-D cell against the corner of the pulse amp and tap the tip of the RCA pulse amp plug against the + end a few times. Place the RCA back in the P.A. and with service sw in operate or normal manually start the mech scanning. It should immediately trip. reject that slot and let it go to the next where it should trip again. If it works a few times in a row the P.A. and readout ckts are OK and you can concentrate on write-in problems.

Rob

Battery test had no effect?Tried several times.
Mick

Hi Mick,
If the 0A2 tubes are old style and "glow", watch for "flickering" as it scans ( service switch must be in operate position). If NO flicker, check TMU alignment, detent switch functions, and condition of the pins/connections on the contact block (frog), that rides the TMU. If flickering--electronic problems somewhere in the TSU/pulse amp, providing the TMU RCA plug/socket are good. Check voltages--- Ron Rich

Thanks Ron.Yes the OA2s flicker.Will do as you suggest tomorrow.
Mick