Need Advice on a Vintage Magnavox Micromatic S600

Hello Everyone,

I picked up a nice looking vintage Magnavox Stereo Console over the weekend and I am having a bit of trouble with it still, so I am looking for some suggestions.

Right now everything seems to be working just fine except the tone arm doesn't seem to advance along the record, seems to be repeating the same thing over and over. The changer cycles the record just fine and after some cleaning & re-lubing the speed seems to be just fine.

Visually the stylus looks ok (doesn't appear visually broken) So I am not sure what the issue might be. Tracking force need adjusted? Bad stylus? ** One note, I have not tried a 78 yet as I have to locate one first **

When I was cleaning the spindle bearings, I noticed that it is missing the top rubber washer (as it sits now, dimpled washer-->metal washer-->bearing-->metal washer) Would this cause the platter to sit lower and cause issues?

Also the linkage on the off-on-auto switch seems to be a little loose, it works but sometimes takes a time or two to engage. Would replacing the spring on the bottom help this out? I didn't really see anything else to tighten it.

This is an Imperial S600 Micromatic from about 1962

Any insight would be great as I would love to get this up and running 100%, thanks in advance!

Ok..First of all, you can't have a washer or bearing missing under the platter around the spindle shaft. The tone arm is factory set according to this. If it is missing, then I suggest finding another Micomatic changer similar to the one you have. These changers you get from time to time on ebay. The tonearm height should be able to be as high as the first record that is waiting to drop from the record support arm. If not this can be adjusted by the screw under the tone arm in the back. This should be the last resort.

Thanks for the reply, I wondered about that, but honestly didn't know there was one missing until I read the service manual last night.

As far as the tone arm goes, i guess I am not picturing how high the arm should go in relation to the waiting record, I don't think it goes all the way up to it, but I can't recall. I may try to get a picture of that this evening and post it here.

As far as the stylus goes, what you can hear when it tries to play seems to be correct (you can make out the music/vocals) so would that suggest my stylus is probably ok?

The vertical projection on the inner side of the tonearm should be mid-way alongside the record to be dropped on the spindle.
This happens when the arm taps it, to determine record size during the chance cycle.
The adjustment for this is in the service manual.

As for the needle skipping grooves - the pressure should be accurately set using a stylus force gauge at around 3 to 4 1/2 grams.
If any binding in the pivot shaft is causing the skipping, it's best to have it serviced - but tearing apart the assembly will require someone who knows the critical adjustments that must be performed upon re-assembly.
Certainly not a job for a novice or tinkerer.

Update for this evening. I did manage to wrangle up a few 78's and tried this on the 78 side of the needle. It did seem to play better as I was able to get several seconds of music at various points. I did still hit various skips, but they were always in the same spots so I am chalking that up to the record itself.

So I am back to wondering if a new stylus is what I need to do next. I am at a loss however on what one I need. Can't seem to find a number on the cart anywhere

the stylus looks similar to this one
http://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/catalog/ ... ategories=


Here are a few pictures:

That's an EV 149 cartridge... takes this stylus, not the one you posted.

http://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/catalog/ ... ategories=

Also notice the Magnavox replacement numbers listed for that stylus.

If the needle looks worned and dirty on the LP side, just replace it with a new one. You really dont have any idea how old it is. The needles are cheap enough to buy on ebay. See the Needledoctor on his ebay site. He has plenty of 'em

tmp58 wrote:If the needle looks worned and dirty on the LP side, just replace it with a new one. You really dont have any idea how old it is. The needles are cheap enough to buy on ebay. See the Needledoctor on his ebay site. He has plenty of 'em

Looking at this "needledoctor" prices, the $20 he wants for one replacement? - I could buy THREE of them from the Voice of Music site - including shipping!

"Any insight would be great as I would love to get this up and running 100%, thanks in advance!"


Also, consider the age of this unit. A little lube here and there may make make some difference but in the long hual it just isn't going to cut it. Bite the bullet and have the changer and amplifier restored by a professional if you don't think you are up to the task. That's the only way it will ever be 100%. Otherwise you are going to be frustrated by constant malfunctions which will require constant tweeking. Eventually you will tire of it.

Thom wrote:"Any insight would be great as I would love to get this up and running 100%, thanks in advance!"


Also, consider the age of this unit. A little lube here and there may make make some difference but in the long hual it just isn't going to cut it. Bite the bullet and have the changer and amplifier restored by a professional if you don't think you are up to the task. That's the only way it will ever be 100%. Otherwise you are going to be frustrated by constant malfunctions which will require constant tweeking. Eventually you will tire of it.

Add to that the added-on expense of replacement transformers that are in danger of cooking to death, due to output tube grid caps leaking.. the chain of events from this is catastrophic.

Then you have tubes, rectifiers, and more to lay out money for.. $$$$!

The adjustment for height may not be under the back of the arm on that one. It might be a screw on top of the arm with the hole directly above the arm shaft.

If someone has taken the turntable off and lost the rubber bearing pad, they might have also taken the arm shaft off and left the arm friction clutch assembly out of adjustment when they put it back. If any if the following drag when the arm is moved by hand, the assembly is out of adjustment:

The clutch assembly drags on the change cycle cam.
The trip finger drags on the lower baseplate.
The trip finger won't stay in the slot in the trip arm.
The trip finger drags on the cycle cam.
The arm positioning finger drags on the cam when the changer is out of cycle.

Never loosen the clutch assembly if you don't have to.

There is also the possibility that a pickup lead is caught on something, especially the mounting base, or that a wire is dragging on the clutch assembly.

I appreciate all the replys, I ended up finding another changer of the same model that works perfect. Switched out the units and we are good to go. It does have a different cartridge so I may switch those out if I can.

zinkatres wrote:I appreciate all the replys, I ended up finding another changer of the same model that works perfect. Switched out the units and we are good to go. It does have a different cartridge so I may switch those out if I can.

If this is a tube type console, do yourself a bigger favor, and get the amp/tuner restored before the thing fries the transformers and tubes - because THEN you'll be looking at a few hundred MORE than the "before this happened" restoration costs.

If a transistorized (astrosonic) chassis, it's still smart to have the work done, before the expensive germanium matched transistors fry.

This is a tube type model. And I have been trying to read up about restoration. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction on where to start. I think I will be able to manage replacing the capacitors and such myself, just would like a little reference material if anyone has put any out there for this type of console restoration. Thanks

zinkatres wrote:This is a tube type model. And I have been trying to read up about restoration. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction on where to start. I think I will be able to manage replacing the capacitors and such myself, just would like a little reference material if anyone has put any out there for this type of console restoration. Thanks

Sure..
You'll need an dual trace oscilloscope, RF signal generator, VTVM, the special Magnavox nut removal tool, along with the RF/IF alignment procedures, because once re-capping is done and all the out-of-tolerance resistors are replaced, it'll need a full alignment for sure.
If it's got the optional Multiplex adapter chassis, you'll need the procedure for that as well.
The amp chassis is a cinch, as long as critical lead dress is observed, this also applies of course to the tuner assembly.

The changer - gotta have a feeler gauge to check/adjust the clutch assembly, and the proper lubricants and cleaners to properly do the job.

Of course, a well-stocked toolbox helps.

Good luck.