Seeburg 222 restoration

Ok starting to get there with this machine, Ron I had setup the TMU as per the manual and it is working ok.
I found that the number 1 button was not making when button was pressed so A1 to U1 would not write in.
Managed to get it working but would like recommendations on the best way to clean the switches?
My juke has a remote stepper unit that I won't be using what is the best way to bypass this unit?
Also have an issue that the mech gears squeal a bit when going right to left as well as the carriage rollers which need replacing due to flat spots on the wheels.
I couldn't find any info in the manual Is the gear rack lubricated with grease or a thin coating of oil?
Cheers
John

Hi John,
When rebuilding any phono that uses a TES, I remove the TES from the cabinet, remove the latch bar solenoid, and, if equipped, meter(s), the wash the whole assembly in hot soapy water. I dry it and re-wash it in (sudsy, if I can get it) ammonia, rinse it very well in hot water--dry totally prior to re-assembly. I lube every point that "rotates" with a drop of 20 wt. oil, and any part that "slides", with a very light dab of graphite grease.
As for the "squeal"-- that's not a "gear", it may be one or more of the rollers, or it may also come from the popularity meter slides. The rods the pop meter rides on must be clean-free of rust, and lubricated very slightly, with a combination of graphite grease and 20 wt. oil. The gear rack is not shown as a lube point in the chart, as it should not be lubed. Ron Rich

Ron

I did remove the selector and washed it in sudsy early in the restoration I was more looking at which spray switch cleaner is recommended to clean the switch contacts.
It seems to be working ok at the moment and being used more might take care of the problem.
The squeal is definitely coming from the mech not the carriage rollers or stainless slides.
I had this all apart to install a 50hz gear so may be an alignment problem only happens when the mech is travelling right to left.
Maybe the thrust washer has worn???
Thx for the heads up on the no lubrication on the gear rack the manual was correct.
As per disconnection of the remote stepper unit is there a preferred way to electrically isolate this from the TSU?
Thx again for all the help.
Cheers
John

Hi John,
IMHO NO "spray", or any other type of "lubrication" should ever be used in the TES !
If the squeal is from the the mech and not the rollers of slides, why doesn't it squeal when playing a record --or, does it ?
As for the RCSU--why ? It is technically "out of the circuit" ( except for two NC relay contacts), if not being used -- If the TSU is one that has a RCSU-2 or, RCSU-3, it can be removed and replaced with a TJU-2/3, but I see no point in doing that ?
Ron Rich

John, the squeal is from the ground return plungers under the Tormat. put a drop of oil on your finger and run it down the center of the ground plate.

As for eliminating the stepper, there isn't any overriding reason to do so though it can be eliminated. In this diagram of the W-i ckt: http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=2&o=59 you see the pulse entering the TES string @ Pin 32 going through the number matrix, exiting @ Pin 31 of the tormat and reentering the TES again @ pin 31.

Within the stepper assembly there are two timing relays. One opens the W-I pulse source to the keyboard while the final set of pulses come in and charge the #2 timing relay, the other set to the also disconnects the keyboard but also applies the W-I pulse from the stepper. I routinely eliminate the "N" set on the right.

In fact you can see that it is possible to mate the TES and Tormat Jones plugs together if you add the W-I supply to Pin 32 and the reentry to Pin 31. I did this in 1988 when we got a 222 ready for a large comedy club at South Street. I used a later selection receiver with removable stepper. We did not need wallboxes but didn't have a bypass plate. To avoid "wasting" a stepper I modded it this way.

Rob