Looking For Parts Source for Penny Arcade Machines

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Handyman62
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Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2008 3:48 pm

Looking For Parts Source for Penny Arcade Machines

by Handyman62 » Sun Nov 02, 2008 5:17 pm

Hi,
Could someone help me with finding a parts source for a Penny Arcade Machine. I am trying to restore and old floor model Love Tester for my gameroom. Basically, you would insert a penny in this old machine and squeeze the handle. The handle would activate the circuitry inside through various relays, etc and cause the wheel to spin. The wheel would randomly stop at some point on the attached circuit, which would provide a current to the designated light. Since the wheel stopping point is random, it provided the fun of having your "love" tested. The circuitry connected to the wheel has been burned in the past, probably because of the relay sticking - just like in the jukeboxes selector circuitry. I am trying to find a source that I could find a part for replacement.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Love Tester.jpg
Love Tester.jpg (63.43 KiB) Viewed 3151 times
Love Tester Mech 2.jpg
Love Tester Mech 2.jpg (69.44 KiB) Viewed 3149 times
Love Tester Wheel - 2.jpg
Love Tester Wheel - 2.jpg (91.9 KiB) Viewed 3149 times

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Record-changer
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Location: Bloomington IN USA

Re: Looking For Parts Source for Penny Arcade Machines

by Record-changer » Sun Nov 09, 2008 11:36 pm

The scoring reel looks like a standard one from an electromechanical pinball machine. I used to repair pinball machines.

The usual cause of failure on a pinball machine scoring reel is the end-of-stroke switch. This is the switch under the reel, closest to the wood board, with the two wires running to it separated from the bundle. If this switch fails to open when the solenoid core is pulled fully in, the relay working the number advance coil will stay energized, burning out the advance coil. If the switch fails to close, the reel will advance erratically.

The most common cause of failure of this switch is loosening of the screws holding the switch stack together. That is the first thing to look for when dealing with leaf switch stacks.

These are fairly standard parts, but there are several different kinds of coil voltages:

24 Volts AC
24 Volts DC
50 Volts AC
50 Volts DC

I can look up part numbers for these, given the manufacturer and the voltage and current type present. But I have no parts available.

Another possibility is rewinding your own coil, provided the bobbin didn't melt. Use an identical length of the same gage of shellacked wire, insulated for at least twice the voltage applied.
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Janet

Re: Looking For Parts Source for Penny Arcade Machines

by Janet » Mon Dec 29, 2008 5:30 am

Hi,

I was curious if you ever got this machine working? And also if you know of a place in Ohio or near Ohio that has one in it (like a restaurant or arcade). I'm not sure where you are located. My son has a fascination with these machines and the only one near us (at our mall) has never been working and just sits there broken down. My son really, really wants to see a working one. Any information you have will be greatly appreciated. Thanks


Topic author
Handyman62
Junior Member
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2008 3:48 pm

Re: Looking For Parts Source for Penny Arcade Machines

by Handyman62 » Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:43 am

Hi Janet,

Yes I did get the machine working. I was able to locate the correct scoring wheel and replace the defective one. The main problem I had was not having a schematic or any information and the fact there were several defective components, disconnected wires and apparent experiments by the previous owner. I had to replace the scoring wheel, a micro switch, a relay coil, the buzzer and a few other odds and ends.

Anyway, it works like a champ now and I really enjoyed working on it. Since I am working on this machine for my gameroom, I have converted it to a penny machine, like the old arcade units were. I removed the door, which held the quarter coin mech and replace it with a solid panel oak door, complete with scroll work like the 30's machines. I then cut a coin slot into the metal disk next to the handle (again like the 30's machines) and used a flexible coin chute to carry the coin to the coin box on the inside wall of the cabinet. I placed a micro switch at the bottom of the chute, which activates the start relay coil when the penny passes. Since this machine is for my enjoyment, I did not bother with a slug rejector. I could care less if someone puts a coin or a slug, I'm not making money at a penny a pop anyway. However, should anyone ever desire, you could add a coin mech at the bottom of the chute where I placed the micro switch. The switch I used is out of a coin mech.

Tell your son, the way this machine operates is quite basic, when you understand the circuit and component functions. Basically, the coin operates a relay coil. That coil in turn provides power to the handle. When you squeeze the handle, power is provided to another relay coil, which in turn provides power to a small electric motor and the buzzer. The electric motor has a shaft with a cam. As the shaft turns, it operates a micro switch each 1/2 turn. This micro switch provides power on and off to a circuit which passes through a 455 bulb and then to the scoring wheel. Each time the micro switch operates, it causes the circuit to move the scoring wheel. Each time the scoring wheel moves, it completes the circuit to one of the lights in the top of the cabinet. (Of course this is all happening very quickly, so the lights are turning on and off up and down the light display at a rapid rate). Anyway, this continues to the 455 bulb heats and opens the circuit. Whichever light is burning at that time continues to blink and provides your "love score". There are some other things happening, (like the first time the scoring wheel turns the solonoid plunger breaks a set of contacts, which deactivates the start relay), but that is pretty much how the machine operates. I hope this helps your son understand how it works.

I am now redoing the cabinet and metal work. I have fininshed the metal work on the top of the cabinet and the metal work beside the handle, with the exception of lettering instructions on the flat panels. I have made the new door and will now stain it and try to reactivate and clean, rather than refinish, the old finish on the cabinet. When I get it completed, I will post a before and after picture just for grins.

As far as being close to Ohio - not so much. I live in the great state of Georgia.


JoeCool

Re: Looking For Parts Source for Penny Arcade Machines

by JoeCool » Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:59 pm

That would make a very interesting youtube video, seeing one of these in action :D


Joe_DS
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Re: Looking For Parts Source for Penny Arcade Machines

by Joe_DS » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:55 pm

JoeCool wrote:That would make a very interesting youtube video, seeing one of these in action :D


Here's one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB8xPhKH ... re=related

I like the guy's reaction: Sexy? How accurate is that? You believe that? I don't know how much truth there is in that! :lol:

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