Phonoland

Hello All. I'm fairly new to restoring Jukeboxes, but this is not my first one. I am attempting to restore a Wurlitzer 3100 and right now I can say with certaintity that I need the spring for the Transfer switch. I did find someone with the entire switch, but I am not ready to spend $95 for the switch when all it really needs is the spring. Does anyone know how or where to get one of these springs?
thank you,
Kirk

For anyone interested, here is the first Jukebox I restored

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laoLUaFYuFo

Sure, if you had filled out your "profile", showing your country location, as requested, we might have a specific seller for you--but since you did not, I suggest you check above in the "announcement--parts--new--used---where to find" section. Remember tho, no one wants to part with JUST a good switch spring----
Ron Rich

Ron,
Scolding recieved, tail tucked, profile updated. My apologies. I would like to eventually become a contributing member of this society. Until I have worked up that rapport, I will learn the do's and dont's of this forum.
In regards to the "announcement--parts--new--used---where to find" section, I did use that prior to posting, (which from what I gathered was the proper sequence of events prior to posting my request), and that is where I did find a $95 transfer switch. My hopes in posting was to: A) find a cheaper switch, B) find someone who has the spring, of C) find a "tech tip" i.e you can buy this spring from vendor X and cut it to fit..
If my options are still to go to the "announcement--parts--new--used---where to find" then I will do just that.
Thank you

Kirk, you should also d-l a sample copy of Always Jukin' : http://www.alwaysjukin.com/ -and peruse the classifieds. Also try Steve Hanson @ New England Jukebox: (860) 646-1533. It is -possible- that a spring from a different switch, such as a broken Seeburg reversing sw might fit.

I had a similar case in 1986 with a Wurlitzer 2400s that was missing the transfer sw. I replaced it with a 24vdc relay operated by a microswitch with a long actuator lever that touched the same arm that would have actuated the original switch.

I just soldered/booted the wires onto a socket for the RY and set the connections so that the relay was live during the reverse/play mode and fell out in the scan/at rest mode.

Back then there were tons of original parts available, but given that the switch was missing, I had relays and would have to trace out the connections anyway it was quicker to go that way.

Rob/NYC

Rob,
thanks for the tip. I have several copies of Always Jukin, just didn't think to go to the website. Anyways, I sent an email to a guy through the classifieds. Will post results.
Thanks again,
Kirk

Kirk,
Which type spring was used there--if the "compression type", I have made them for use there by using a cut-down ballpoint pen spring---If it's the 2 loop type, check A-1's catalog, as he has quite a number of special "Seeburg" springs--never looked for Wurlies--
Ron Rich

Kirk,
Which type spring was used there--if the "compression type", I have made them for use there by using a cut-down ballpoint pen spring---If it's the 2 loop type, check A-1's catalog, as he has quite a number of special "Seeburg" springs--never looked for Wurlies--
Ron Rich

Well, the switch from the Ad on always jukin, is sold already. Ron, The spring, I am assuming based off of the play switch spring is a compression type. I will try a spring from a ball point pen and see if that will get it going, if not I may be buying a $95 switch.
Thanks, will update

Kirk, that spring is not a compression type in the sense of a coil, it is an over-center or double loop.

It may be possible to "Geppetto" a compression spring to fit and stay in-place, but I question whether it would be able to exert enough force to make positive contact and prevent arcing.

Rob

Rob,
Don't know for sure, but either WurliTzer had two suppliers for the two switches (Mute/Play and Transfer) or there was an aftermarket supplier that supplied them with the "compression" type spring.
And of course, there is always the "plastic enclosed" replacement, and bracket assembly that WurliTzer offered in the later models---- Ron Rich

Ron, that's interesting. The only ones I've seen in my machines, or the old shop manual I have show the loop-type. I do have a plastic enclosed one but no bracket.

The tricky thing with this switch as opposed to some others is that it must snap back on it's own but exert equal contact pressure in either position.

Rob

I was away for training, hence the late response.
I went ahead and ordered the $95 switch, however I am concerned about the switch springing back on it's own as Rob mentioned. I did try to fix the original with a different spring I had that might have worked, had the switch plate not broken.
Lessons learned!!

Kirk, if the seller was honest in describing the switch you should be OK. It might be necessary to -slightly- reform the two "Y" shaped metal guides IF the action is incorrect. This is not a big deal and probably won't be needed.

Rob

Rob,
The switch is in and working as advertised. I did a little work on the juke this weekend, and it's back from the grave. I was listening to it for about 3 hours yesterday!!
Thanks,