Seeburg USC1 -

Ken, I checked out that link... tried the support on the Bodine website.. had a place for my serial number and got this:

Sorry, there's no information available for serial number "v16722888".
The serial number you specified appears to be associated with a product that was custom-built for an original equipment manufacturer (OEM). However, this product may now be obsolete or older than our online product history can support. Please contact the OEM of the equipment from which the Bodine product was removed.

anyone know the support number to Seeburg?

I seem to recall a couple of years ago that one of the guys on the antique radio forums had an old jukebox motor (made by Bodine) that had a special frame not made any more. I think this juke was from around 1936. Anyway he got ahold of somebody at Bodine and that person said, "send it in and we can rebuild it". So he did and they rebuilt it. I think the cost was around $200. When it came back, it looked and worked like brand new.

Ken,

Wow..nice to know they'll do that if needed.

Thanks for the info

Tom

I had a motor from an old Chicago Coins bowler from the 40's made by a well known company (who's name escapes me at the moment--maybe "motosearch") from Rascaine (SP?) WI. that this company totally rebuilt for me for $35.00--maybe 12 years ago. Called them up, and they said that they would rebuild as needed, any motor that they had ever made as long as they could read the "spec. number" on it for that flat rate. If no #, costs would be much higher to redesign one-- Ron Rich

Well, I've made some progress. Got the new motor installed (thank you Ron), lubed the mech with oil & grease (i got some CRC Stay-Lube Moly-Graph grease ...guess I should have checked the size of the tube when I ordered it.. I now own a grease gun with 2 14oz cartridges of grease...lmao). In order to do it, I had to remove the magazine, and that's when I saw this:





The arm to the contact block has twisted a bit and I can't get it level just by adjusting screws. I fear I'll break it if I try to twist it back. Of course, I'm assuming this should be level as the pics in the manual show! Is this a part I can get somewhere if I break it while attempting to level off the contact block?

EDIT: I was able to torque this enough to get it close to level and I used the screws to bring the contact block completely level, so I should be good with this...

Also, I have a broken white wire (see below). The wire is completely white with no secondary striping.



It "looks" like it is suppose to connect to this terminal somewhere (which seems to have been twisted and bent backwards). I'm guessing this "twisting" may have occurred during the "oops we placed it on it's back during shipping" period. Can someone verify that the wire on my thumb in the pic should be soldered to the spot the arrow is pointing at? I can't find anything referencing this in the manuals, the only diagram with the contact block assembly refers to the adjustment for the contacts on the top to the TORMAT.

additional pics of the contact block after "untwisting" that small terminal board back to what looks normal. I've removed the popularity meter bracket so I can see the contact block assembly (which brings up another question, do I need the popularity meter component on here at all for it to work?:

Note the broken wire dangling in the shot below:


Thanks,

Tom

Tom,
That's typical of the damage caused by shipping without bolting down. You were lucky to be able to re-form that arm--I usually remove it and heat it somewhat before attempting that maneuver-- That wire belongs to another "lug" which has broken off --look carefully and you can see where the phenolic is broken--there also should be a diode soldered on between the two lugs. This is the connector for the Popularity meter. It is not necessary for phono operation--just tape off that loose wire or replace the phenolic "stand"--Also, while there--it looks as if the contact block is adjusted too high--you want MINIMAL pressure on the contacts-- You also may want to check the "shoe" adjustment on the very front left of the pickup assembly--It has probably bent that too--
Ron Rich

Ron,

Thank you yet again! The popularity meter component has a broken clip as well and wasn't riding properly on the rails, so I wasn't planning on hooking it up anytime soon. I will tape that off and adjust the contact block assembly downward. I hadn't locked it in place yet as I figured I'd mess it up if I had to work on that area. I do see in the adjustment part of the service manual with the spacing and will adjust accordingly. Hopefully I'll have a functioning juke within the next few hours!

Will check the shoe adjustment as well. I know I had to work on it a bit as well while straightening the arm that holds the CB2

Thanks again,

Tom

Tom,
It would be my guess that that phono took a pretty good "bump" while on it's back-- Ron Rich

Well, fired it up. and it just sat there as it had in the past. I flip the scan start switch, I can hear the relay fire, but no movement. Shut it down, opened the back and flipped the reversing switch in the opposite direction, tightened the fuse holder for the .5a slo blo fuse (yeah, I didnt have any pigtail fuses and now I can change it a bit more easily). Knowing it wouldnt do anything, I plugged it back in and wouldn't ya know it, it started scanning. Hit the scan switch again and it didnt move. I give it a nudge while holding the scan switch and it begins 2 passes. I went for broke and put a selection in, gave it a nudge and it started scanning, but to no avail..it didnt stop on the record..just did 2 scans and stopped. I know i need to clean some contacts on the backside of the mech, so I'll go to work on that.

It has a pulse anyway..

Tom,
What "5 amp fuse" did you change ? There is no 5 mp fuse in that phono that has anything to do with the 117vac for the motor ??
Sounds as if the 3M15 contacts are not making good contact--
Do you have a copy of my "Microlog Trouble Shooting Guide" ? I humbly suggest that it might help you--
Contact me off list for info-- ronnnrich@yayoo.com Ron Rich

sorry..i probably should have said "1/2 amp" ..the decimal doesn't show very well. I do indeed have the microlog troubleshooting guide and will run out and get a D cell battery for testing in step 3. An update at this point is that it scans, but sometimes I need to wiggle the mech to get the motor to push it. (ie: if I make a selection, then wiggle the mech, it'll scan. sometimes it scans without the wiggle.) Also, it has picked up a record on occasion and played it. Most of the time it gets jammed when it tries to clamp the 45 in place as well as when it's time to release it (have to spin the motor manually until it unbinds).

So the reason for procedure 3 is that it accepts a selection, but never seems to stop on the correct one or doesn't stop at all.

It looks like I'll need to pull the mech apart again as I must have missed the part that clamps the record in place. This testing and cleaning should take a bit of time. I'll post my results when I get done with it all.

On an upnote, I love the sound produced by this juke, got to hear some tunes for the first time from her.

Tom

Tom,
Probably would have helped if I had my "good" glasses on--I can see the decimal point now-
That fuse is for the pop meter--not needed in your case----
Still think the 3M15 contacts are not making--did you look at them ?? Did you oil the phono and motor with the correct oil?
Have fun--the clamp arm adjustments are a little tricky, follow the instructions in the service manual one,by,one--
Yes--procedure # 3, in the Trouble Shooting Guide, is where to 'start"--
Ron Rich

Ron,

Thanks. I did use the lubrication chart and lubed anything with a star with 3 in 1 SAE 20 oil (not the 3 in 1 household) ..and then anything with an "L" got the moly-graph. I just took a look at the 3M15 contact (and the others), I had cleaned them, but did not properly gap them afterwards (oops).. gapping 3M15 stopped the transfer from binding up. So, I'm at a point where it scans and scans. If I keep adding selections, it will continue to scan. I can detent the mech manually and it will play the record (on the 200 side) beautifully and on the 100 side (or A side of each record) no so well, I'll need a new needle/cartridge for that side. The mechanism however works properly in both directions as far as loading and unloading the record. I'll grab a D cell tomorrow and continue testing.

Thanks,

Tom

Tom,
Glad that works now--a word of caution--the moly does not need to be re-applied --probably --never again in your life time--I only apply it when I have washed the mechanism--just use the oil from now on--(don't know what you can do with the excess moly ??) Ron Rich

Well, I'm in the process of going through all the adjustments in the service manual and got to the Record Cut-off (trip switch adjustment) which wasn't working at all. I think it needs more than an adjustment. (see below)



This looks like a reed switch..which of course..would need a magnet or something to trip it... Is it me, or should there be a small magnet where that white square outline is? The reed switch itself looks fine. If it is a magnet, is there a specific one I need?

Thanks,

Tom

EDIT / UPDATE: OK..found this in the bottom of the juke, I'll assume this magnet is to be attached where the white outline is in the previous pic.