Phonoland

I forgot to mention---
If the coil sleeve is "loose", I glue it in with "Red-glypt" (aka: "Glyptol", or, "Red Radio cement", available at www.smelectronics.com, or a GOOD "electronics store"). I use this product as I can judge if the sleeve is moving at a later date, by sight, real easily. Ron Rich

Ron:

I didn't know San Mateo Electronics was still around. I used to go there all the time back when I lived in San Mateo from 1966 through 1972. They had everything!

Hi Ken,
Yep--I've been doing business with them for 50 years. The gent that originally started it, Ted, passed away about ten-15, years ago. His son Tom, now runs it, along with a couple of employee's. One, Ron, whom, you may recall, as he formerly worked,for years, for ARDCO. They have always treated me fairly ! I can purchase somethings, at somewhat lower prices, elsewhere, but I know, if I need something, that they do not have, they will search for it for me--Ron Rich

Ron, sorry about the confusion, I realize that the none cancelling problem is not associated with the amp recap. I forgot to mention I replaced all the caps in both chassis. There were several caps in the selection receiver and/or credit switch (I think that is the proper nomenclature) and I may have gotten some switches out of adjustment when replacing the caps that were buried and I had to remove some interference items prior to being able to access the caps. I will check all your recommendations, verify the switch gaps and make sure the switches I had to move are functioning correctly. I have ordered some deoxit and will try it on the plugs with some dental tools I have. If that does not work I think I will permanently jumper the socket, since you mentioned they abandoned the current grounding style in the later tube amps. I will put a red warning tab on the speaker plug wires to remind me not to pull the speaker plug while under power.
On the C/SC contact, are you referring to the contacts shown on page 31 and 37 of the picture diagrams for the cam switch?
Rob, I have the redhead with mono stylus currently. I have a couple new stereo stylus that I will put in to see if that is part of the problem. I have replaced all the tubes with new ones. Not sure what or where the "volume control plug is".
I am a bit worried after reading about the output transformer issues and its associated symptoms. Currently the bass adjustment switch does not seem to make any significant difference when rotated, but the treble does a great job. I have been looking for a basic o-scope, but have not found a functional one yet in my budget. I do have a vintage audio generator, but I need to clean the adjustment switches on it or I have to wiggle the switches to get it to work.
Thank you again, Craig.

Craig, the volume control plug is the jumper plug that connects the control on the amp itself. It has what looks like three jumpers internally, take a look at the schematic. If these are not making contact it can remove the bass circuit form the mix. Set bass to max and try rocking the jumper around while a record is playing. If you are only going to use the internal control, you might be better off just tacking on jumpers behind the socket.

It is possible that the bass choke (looks like a small transformer) is open. I don't know the correct impedance or inductance is here. Hopefully someone will chime in. Again, with bass at max you can try jumping the bass choke and see what happens.

The original mono spike styli for the redhead are very loud -but they must be seated all the way into the slot. If your meter reads low AC in the millivolt range, connect it to the pickup plug, play a loud record and you should see somewhere around 20-30 millivolts (mv). The atereo compatible styli are lower output.

Rob

Hi guy's,
Should you need one, the replacement choke is Hammond's model 158Q.
Ron Rich

The model C and I have had a difference of opinion, I commanded it to play and it ignored me.
I was preparing to follow up on the previous recommendations and had jumpers in place to check the choke, but all the mech. will do now is scan continuous. I did a search, but did not find this problem in the listings (could have done search wrong).
I had lubed everything, removed the clutch and lubed it and freed up the mech when I first purchased the jukebox and had no problems until I decided to rebuild the amp. Give it a couple new parts and the darn thing throws a fit. Well it got a time out while I rebuilt the differential in my Camry. Now I am back to show it who is boss, while I wait for parts for the car. So all you juke bosses out there, feel free to help me get this jukebox back in line. I even ordered some new Beach Boys records for it as a treat.....i'ts so ungrateful.
The problem R/T the mech not cancelling the selections is still probably still a concern, but now I can not get it to stop at the selections let alone cancel them. It's writing the selections into the pin bank (pins move into the selected position) but it's just scanning past the selections.
Thank you again in advance, Craig.

RTFM--trouble shooting guide will "walk you through it"
Ron Rich

Alas Ron, it was a moment of laziness. I did get a copy of the fantastic manual and do refer to it....usually...before asking a question, but I was hoping that the group of problems might be associated with one problem and sometimes the manual does not key into that. After reading the fantastic manual , I determined it was not a single problem and another challenge was born. It turned out to be the "W" contact...I think...Since I cleaned all the contacts and the problem went away it was either that contact or magic. I also focused on the "M" contacts due to a muting problem or lack there of. As the record ends there is a momentary loud hum and changer noise noted through the speaker. I cleaned the mute switches, seated the mute plug and checked the solder connections in the plug but did not see a problem. It is difficult to determine exactly which contact the manual is referring to in some of the drawings since the contact letter may be written next to two or three contacts and there is no line or arrow draw straight to the exact contact.
Back to the lack base issue. When I jumpered the choke the sound became much fuller. I have not disconnected the choke from the circuit to check for an open coil, but I suspect the choke is bad. Ron, thank you for providing the replacement choke information as it looks like I will be ordering one.
Thanks again, Craig.

Hi Craig,
Sorry, but IMHO,you need to "be taken outside, behind the "outhouse", and beaten with a wet noodle" !! ( Either that or you need to see an eye Doc, and get glasses!) RTFM !! "Spesh-sha-lee", page 2172--contacts are clearly shown with "arrows", and an "adjustment procedure" that counts (also shown) blade numbers !
And--Oh, BTW--the trouble shooting portion does mention the "W" contacts a being a cause for the non-detent problem--
Ron Rich

Ron, your pages are much better (actually that section was awesome) than the section I was using. I was using the Picture Diagram of the electrical selector operation pages 28-38, because somewhere in the manual it referred me to that section, but the one you pointed out was much more better.
I will have my wife do the beating later.
I will also have my eye glass prescription checked as it is getting more difficult to read the printed info on the capacitors.
Yup, I noted the "W" contact in the troubleshooting, which was why I cleaned it and was having so much fun I cleaned all the ones around it too. The problem is sometimes a problem will be intermittent and I am not sure if I fixed it, it magically fixed itself, divine intervention repair or its possessed and the problem will come back latter to haunt me again.
Have I said thanks for your patience.....no....well then, thank you for your patience and help. Craig

Hi Craig,
Gad to know you "fizzed it"--also glad to know that "(my) pages are much better--"
As for the thing between you and your wife--I WON'T go there !!
All boils down to my favorite expression "RTFM" !!
Ron Rich

Ron, I ordered the Hammond's model 158Q choke to replace the original, but it is much larger than the original. It will not fit in the same space inside the chassis. I could mount it on the outside of the chassis opposite its original location, the mounting tabs on the replacement choke are also wider than the original and will require drilling one new hole (easy fix). Have you installed one of these replacement chokes, if so, where did you put it in the chassis?
Thanks, Craig.

Hi Craig,
Nope--never had to do that--
Ron Rich