RCA Victor Model 9-X-571 Superheterodyne

This radio has some minor cosmetic issues but I am hoping that displaying it with my super clean 45-J changer will give it a bit more self-esteem. The trouble is the cord which moves the tuning indicator has broken and come unspooled from it's windings around the tuning wheel drum and the tracking pulleys at both ends of the dial.I need to know how many winds around the drum,in which direction,over or under the dial pulleys,how to calibrate the indicator,how much tension on the spring.Whew!! A confusing set of perameters for I,who can indeed chew several pieces of gum while walking.Is there a fact sheet available which details these windings.Is this a secret knowledge possessed only by radio restorers and gum-chewing wizards?

Go to http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums. They have helped me alot with questions about radios and other things.

Van

WHEW!!! I almost got randover in there! I was blown away by all the traffic.It would be nice to have that here.What can we all do to increase the level of activity on this site?

Hello James... whenever in doubt with tuner cord and winding, and without Cie. info, the only way to go is by trial and error, but don't worry it is not as bad as it looks.

Fist, locate ALL wheels and pulley in the cord path (many tinny wheels are sometimes hidden on side papels). For the number of winds around the drum, if you are using the exact same cord lenght as the original, there is only one way to wind it that will gets you to the end with proper lenght, one too many wind and the cord won't be long enough and one wind too short would leave you with too much excess rope at the end. For the direction of the wind, you should find the way that the cord is well align with both top and bottom guide whells from the drum, never does the cord should go from, lets say, a top guide wheel to the bottom of the drum and have crossing strings. Also, just to confirm that you are winding the right way, before you install the cord, set all your dial, variable capacitors and wheels to their zero point (end or begining of course) and make sure that when you start turning the dial knob in the oposite dirrection, the variable capacitor also turns in the right dirrection. (think of it as if you were trying to synch a controller for an aerial antenna, the zero point of the outside rotor for the antena and the inside controller needs to be the same or one of the two will reach its end-of-cours before the other one and the system will jam) The spring tension is the normal tension that the spring was built for (size, lenght and pull force), meaning not too loose and not too tight, but better too tight than too loose if you have no choice. GOOD LUCK!

Here's some info:

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByMode ... 015388.pdf

Precisely what I was looking for.The documents contain all the info I will ever need for this radio.The tension spring though is different in the diagram, which pictures a coiled spring to hold tension on the cord.The spring on mine is instead a curled wire loop,which only leaves me wondering at what point in production were the spring types changed and why.
Thank you for your time,Bill. I recommend this site to all users and I'll bring expensive tequila to your wedding.