Phonoland

Hi Tony,
Relays are "all the same"--look at the marking "24 volt DC" is the coil marking, and what you use to determine which relay is a good replacement. Different manufactures mark them slightly differently, some say 24 volt others say 25 volt, and so on up to 30 volts. They are all interchangeable.
For the wire--check ePay--there is someone offering it, I think--ask him----Usually the best way to strip it is to use an electric wire stripper. Ron Rich

Tony, I don't try to strip those wires, I just burn off the insulation with the shank of the soldering iron. It take a little skill, you start by touching the end of the wire to the iron and move back along the wire. You'll see the insulation shrivel off the wire. That way there is no risk of nicking the conductors are you might with cutting.

Rob-NYC

Ron Rich wrote:Hi Tony,
Relays are "all the same"--look at the marking "24 volt DC" is the coil marking, and what you use to determine which relay is a good replacement. Different manufactures mark them slightly differently, some say 24 volt others say 25 volt, and so on up to 30 volts. They are all interchangeable.
For the wire--check ePay--there is someone offering it, I think--ask him----Usually the best way to strip it is to use an electric wire stripper. Ron Rich

I have to disagree here Ron. There is a radical difference in coil impedance and this is important in certain applications. For instance, the Rowe CGA+ steppers the transfer relay needs to have higher impedance to allow the time-constant to cut over correctly. It is DC and uses a cap unlike the copper rings on the Seeburg-Guardian units. I also use a 650 ohm relay in the pulse repeater position for greater sensitivity (original is approx 250 Ohm).

On the 1100 mech, the relay that controls the mech motors has a diode and cap that provide carryover from the trip sw to the microswitches on the cam. If that relay is too low in impedance it will drain the holding cap and the arm will just sit 'n spin at the spiral.

Rowe DC cube relays seem to range from 250 to 650 ohms.

As a general rule, it OK to go up in impedance -but not down. Before replacing a relay one should measure the DC resistance of the coil if possible.

Rob

Thanks guys.

I tried a wire stripper, a sharp blade and my fingernails... all with the same results. at this point I am not left with much option as I have rendered the cables to short.

I have been checking online, unfortunately there are 10 billion options to choose from and this is definetly not my area of expertise, if possible can someone provide an exact make. Model cable as to what will provide the best replacement.

Also although I have tried the melting of the plastic coating in the past (Other projects) to be completely honest have never been satisfied with the results it makes for a messy job and solder doesn't particularly work that well on the wire surface afterwards (just my opinion)

Rob,
I stand corrected--thanks !
Ron Rich

Regarding the tone arm re-wiring.

not getting much feedback form the forum but have been doing a lot of research.

have run across a multitude of people suggesting the use of Computer Mouse wires as they are designed for flexibility and durability.

Given I am a computer guy, and unless anybody here has any objections I may try that.


Comments or suggestions ?

Tony,
The only things that must be considered, IMHO,is flexibility, and shielding (if used)--Is mouse wire "twisted pair(s)" ? Ron Rich

Yes, Mouse cable is definitely twisted pair, very flexible, very thin and very durable.

The mouse wire should be fine.

Just remember the out-of-phase relationship necessary in the Rowe system.

Rob/NYC

Tony,
Just do not try to use mouse eaten wire--it won't transmit well !
Ron Rich

Mouse cable is of no use at all, on the Rowe Ami 1100 & 1200 mechanism the tone arm cable has to be very flexible 2 core screened cable for each channel. Failure to use the above type cable will only end up in tears.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Alan's post prompts me to make clear that I, and others, are not talking about using the entire mouse cable. What is intended is to remove the sheath and use the individual wires inside -which are entirely suitable for tonearm and other applications. The lack of a shield has not been a problem on the machines where I have used unshielded wire. I recommend independently braiding each channel's leads at approx two turns per inch.

Rob

Thank you for the clarification.

I did use the (striped from the plastic) mouse cable, it also came with a ground wire (no plastic coat) that I used to replace the shielding ground, only problem I ran into is under the record playing arm there are three metallic Clips that are pressed into pivots on the arm and hold the cables neatly in place. in the process of prying them out broke one, currently looking for a suitable replacement.

any advice ?

PLEASE SEE ATTACHED PHOTO (Notice this photo still has the old cables)


Thanks

Hi Tony,

Looking at your picture of your tone arm, you need a new stylus which I am sure that you are well aware of.
Your picture also shows wear on the cartridge where the coating has worn off, this shows that the tone arm is not adjusted correctly or could have been the result of the lift arm not not being on the tone arm cam.
I suggest that you go through the tione arm adjustments as per your manual.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Tony,
Didja bust the post off, or just the Pal Pushnut? If the later, any GOOD hardware store should have a similar item ( different brand perhaps--slightly different in appearance) available. BTW--Mr. Rockola invented the Pal Pushnut/speednut concept. ( another brand is "Tinnerman, speednut"). The jukebox suppliers listed above, sell "bags"of them--Ron Rich