Disable Autospeed on LS-3?

Rob, the top strip of contacts is only for the "selection playing" annuciator. It has nothing to do with selection process.

Not too familiar with these later Seeburgs, but is they use a Tormat (your does) the battery test involves placing the + of the battery to chassis and the tip of the RCA plug to the battery's negative. This is the reverse of the older tube systems.

You must pass the battery readout test before any further efforts are worthwhile. The black and gray boxes are not directly involved in readout.

Has the control unit been rebuilt? If not, you are just going to be "putting out fires" like this over and again. The basic readout circuit is essentially the same as the previous two years so the schematics for --just that section-- should suffice. Pay particular to the resistors that feed the readout voltage to the mech. these are common failure points. I'm sure Ron will have more info.

Rob/NYC

Thanks Rob, so it sounds like I really need to do that D-battery test successfully (ie. try harder). Here's my steps:

1. Put the plus side of the battery on the chassis...finding an unpainted place on the DCC chassis isn't easy, it's all gold So I chose a screw head.

2. Remove the tormat plug and touch it to the negative of the battery

3. Plug the tormat plug back in

4. Make a selection

If i understand it correctly, the mech should detent ONE space at this point, correct? (ie. it shouldn't just 'run'). If it doesn't..what does that mean?

Rob,
See pages 24-25, in my trouble shooting guide for the procedure to determine where the problem lies--
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Rob,
See pages 24-25, in my trouble shooting guide for the procedure to determine where the problem lies--
Ron Rich

Yup, I'm reading these pages over and over. I refuse to give up

In doing the "D battery test" i have a hard time finding anyplace on the DCC unpainted. I'm using a screw head but not 100% sure if the connection is good. Any other recommended places to try and get a solid connection to the + battery?

Did that test the best I could and no detents on either side.

I removed and cleaned the contacts on the detent switch. It seems to be aligned well and clean.

In the troublehooting it says the problem is this switch or a 'read out contact'...are these the tormat rivits? Or are there other 'read out' contacts?

Finally, possibly a clue: When the tormat contact block is positioned too high (ie. up right against the contacts), it should detent immediately when selecting a number. Instead, it does a "click, click, click" (3 times) and then proceeds to scan, not attempting to select again.

I feel like this could be a pinched wire or something from sliding the mech in/out...a bad contact seems less likely to me because it went from working 100% to not working 100%.

I have a promising lead (maybe):

I pulled the DCC and found the pos. supply fuse blown. Would that cause this issue? Does that mean the DCC is just completely failing right now?

To replace it, the pcb board under it says 8/10 only (the manual says 6/10). Should I just replace with an 8amp slo-blow?

Rob,
If the+DC fuse is open, it can not trip, as that is the detent relay supply--I would ASSUME that you did something to that circuit, as I have never seen it fail, without a little "help--" !
Quoting from the guide, page 24, (procedure)--"First check all voltages---DCC service notes--" This will "splain you" the fusing--
Ron Rich

Yup...I almost certainly did something. I have no idea what I did...but hey, I'm glad I found it.

Will hunt down a fuse tomorrow and hopefully I'll be at least back to the 'solve the flutter' stage.

Thanks so much for your responses Ron and Rob...even if you just keep telling me to RTFM, it gives me the encouragement to keep trying...

Rob,
RTFM, and, RTFG !!! (I love to encourage !)
Ron Rich

Replaced the fuse and I'm back up and running. Whew

So back to the flutter now...I still dont really see anything recognizable as 'rubber' above the motor. The top of the motor where the shaft enters had a bunch of debris that looks like it could be FROM rubber...but not sure.

I may need to dig in again...

Rob, Google: "seeburg motor coupling" You'll get a bunch of pic's. It pretty much explains itself. It connects the motor shaft to the worm gear. It must be pliable.

Rob/NYC

Rob-NYC wrote:Rob, Google: "seeburg motor coupling" You'll get a bunch of pic's. It pretty much explains itself. It connects the motor shaft to the worm gear. It must be pliable.

Rob/NYC

Oh oh OH! Yes...THATS the kinda info I need. I think there's basically no rubber left on my coupling And I found replacement parts over at http://www.needles4jukeboxes.com/

do you recommend buying from there or somewhere else?

Is this something I can replace without tearing apart TOO much of the machine? (ie. can I actually do it?) Wait wait, lemme guess. I gotta buy another manual.

Rob ,
Yes, Yes, and yes (if you want to know how the factory did it).
Your motor coupler is probably so hard, that you don't recognize it as being rubber !
Ron Rich

Rob, replacing a coupling is one of life's simple tasks.

1) loosen all four of the Allen setscrews on the coupling. Two at top. Two at the bottom.

2) Remove the four screws that hold the top and bottom motor clamps.

3) Gently slide the motor outward -bottom first so that it clears the bottom support casting and lower it to allow it's shaft to exit the coupling.

4) Pull down-out the old coupling taking note that the shaft of the worm gear is slotted to allow one Allen setscrew to seat -same with the motor.

Make sure that one setscrew at both top and bottom seats in the slots on both motor and worm gear shaft. Turn the Allen screw just enough to index the slots, but do not tighten them until the motor is fully clamped again.

Rob

Rob-NYC wrote:Rob, replacing a coupling is one of life's simple tasks.

1) loosen all four of the Allen setscrews on the coupling. Two at top. Two at the bottom.

2) Remove the four screws that hold the top and bottom motor clamps.

3) Gently slide the motor outward -bottom first so that it clears the bottom support casting and lower it to allow it's shaft to exit the coupling.

4) Pull down-out the old coupling taking note that the shaft of the worm gear is slotted to allow one Allen setscrew to seat -same with the motor.

Make sure that one setscrew at both top and bottom seats in the slots on both motor and worm gear shaft. Turn the Allen screw just enough to index the slots, but do not tighten them until the motor is fully clamped again.

Rob

Brilliant, thanks! Ordering my coupling now!

Just a happy update here and another 'thanks'. I got my coupling and the little rubber 'base' that the motor sits on. Pulled it out with almost no problems only to find....Whoever had this before me didn't put in one of those rubber bases so the motor was riding right on the metal!

Well, that explains alot about my motor noise and flutter!

Anyway, installed both pieces in about 45 minutes and I'm up and running with no discernable flutter!

Thanks for all your help Rob and Ron...you guys are enabling a whole new batch of folks who can own and work on these machines (even if feebly )!