Malfunctioning pages and fuse question

Hi,

I am posting because of the following two thingies.

There was a broken fuse in the coin mechanism of my Wurlitzer 2000.
In the manual it states that this should be: Fuse, 8/10 Amp, Fusetron or Bussman M.D.L.
Is this a good replacement: http://dk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Buss ... fxow%3D%3D ?

Secondly, yesterday the left page unit simply stopped turning it's pages.
I took the pages part out, and the mechanism underneath it became visible.
Upon touching the gear wheel on the left, the motor operating the page unit jumped a bit further.
After this I could push the button in the front and the pages would turn, but I have to repeat this time after time.
It's as if the gear wheel doesn't turn far enough to make the button 'pushable'.

Additonally after playing a few more records the whole jukebox's lights started to flicker,
the record slowed down and a loud buzzing noise came out of the system.

I pulled the plug because I was scared of starting a fire or making the malfunction more severe.
I reckon somehow the left page unit shortciruits the whole system but since I am new to this, I only have had the jukebox for 5 weeks now,
I was wondering what the trouble could be and what I could do to help solve the problem.

thank you for your patience

Nick.

Hi Nick,
Yes a MDL-8/10 fuse is what is needed. "Bussman" (aka "Buss"), is an old brand name in fuses, that has apparently now been purchased by Eaton. Today, brand names seem un-important in fuses, as they all seem to be made at the same plant, in China ?
"Fusetron" was Bussman's trade-marked name for their (MDL) "slow blowing" ("sloblo"), fuse. This has not been used recently, as far as I know--
2nd-- The "pages" on that model phono, require that the motor coast, somewhat to the finish. If un-oiled, or improper oil was used, the motor/drive train, tends to get"gummed up". Watch the working page--see what is happening differently between the two units. If you can figure it out--fix it, if not, give us all the details you can, and MAYBE someone will be able to answer your question.
Your last problem can be the most serious ! Just guessing you have a poor "source" of "mains power". It could be something as simple as a poor connection in the mains supply-- If you have "electrical skills" you can trouble shoot it, but, if you do not have the needed skill, I strongly urge you to find "professional" help, as voltages in that circuit can, kill a person !
Ron Rich

Additionally after playing a few more records the whole jukebox's lights started to flicker, the record slowed down and a loud buzzing noise came out of the system.

If the cabinet lights are flickering as well as mechanism "slowing" the typical cause is an aging power switch on the back of the amp. These develop internal arching. Sniff around, you'll usually be able to find the arcing component easily enough via smell even with power off.

Since you are in a 220/50 country is the machine was a USA export there may be a large transformer in the cabinet floor. Check all connections there.

Taking Ron's warning into account, it is still often most efficient to find this sort of problem with the power on. If you feel comfortable doing so, remove the back, plug it in and "wiggle" the power switch and a few internal wires. Check also that the wall plug is secured. Wear insulating gloves if that helps you feel more confident.

If you keep an eye on things wile probing around, there is little potential for fire --unless-- the problem resides in the wall outlet. Plug a small lamp into the same outlet along with the jukebox. If both start to flicker, it is time for an electrician.

Rob/NYC

Thanks both !

I took the day off for "poking around" inside the jukebox today, will let you know what I find later on !

Cheers, Nick.

OK, the humming and buzzing sound seemed to be a badly plugged in socket/plug, so that's over and done with.

I opened the back panel and found out what is happening to the pages.

The moving metal triangle on the circuit board for the right booklet makes complete turns.
It moves over the small metal strip on the upper right corner, where it stops shortly after.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/385wy3z2rk2j14o/2015-02-13%2012.14.11.mov?dl=0

The moving metal triangle for the left booklet however does not.
It actually stops before completing it's rotation, on the metal trip on the upper right corner.
When I touch the gear wheel gently, it jumps over the final part of the metal and I can hit the page button in the front again, once.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7ezvpsnkbh2yt1c/2015-02-13%2012.13.08.mov?dl=0

It then flips a page of the booklet, however it fails on finishing it's complete run and the triangle again stops halfway the metal strip.
Any ideas ?

I also took these images of the fron, in case it helps...
Left side
http://www.dropbox.com/s/phip8tet82lfwff/2015-02-13%2012.30.07.jpg

Right side
http://www.dropbox.com/s/w3rrvbpeemnopfu/2015-02-13%2012.31.09.jpg

Hi Nick,
Looking at your great pix, I see your problems--
On the one that does not go "far enough", you either have a "dirty", or "burned" carry-over segment. My preference, in this case, would be to purchase a new segment board, and wiper ( check with Victory Glass {address listed above in "sticky's"}--they reproduced these, and MAY sell them ?). That not being an option, you will need to advance the wiper by turning off the power while the wiper is out of the way, clean the segment(s!), using a safety solvent and a rag, then a pencil eraser, and I would coat it lightly, with Deoxit-5. You should also check the condition of the contact on the wiper, itself. If this is burned, it will at least need to be reformed, with a burnishing tool (see above sticky--"how to clean contacts"), or replaced. If this fails, remove the Deoxit, with safety solvent, and put a very LIGHT coat of "Lubrex 1205", on the segment.
On the one that "works"--it ainna gonna last too much longer !--See the flash, at the end of the cycle ? This will soon result in the wiper advancing too far, and probably "locking" the unit up. This one will need the same care as above, PLUS, the "carbon build-up" at the end of the segment, must be removed, and the hole filled with a non-conducting material--epoxy is my recommendation here.
Have fun ! Ron Rich

Thanks for the info ! Not very promising since I recently bought this machine but still I'll look into it.
We're cleaning it later on this weekend, thanks for the pirceless advice on such short notice !

We also have this website: http://www.jukeboxparts.nl/categorie/16/1900-2000/3.html
I take it this is the third item on the website, the yellow board ?
"Wurlitzer printplaat boekje model 2000/2100 Artikelnummer: 3610" Priced 14,50 euros.

That appears to be it ?? Ron Rich

Hi,

the problem got fixed by a technician.

As it turns out, the triangle moving over the print board had a dent, and wasn't making a proper connection.

This solved the entire issue, however since last week I have another one so I'll be making a new post soon... sigh...