ATTENTION DanStreb -- post re/the Birch portable

Please NOTE --

This post by DanStreb was originally placed in the "Electric Gramophones" forum. In attempting to move it to the "acoustic" gramophones forum," it was somehow deleted. I have re-posted it, as it originally appeared under Dan's Name, and edited it so the photo would show.

DanStreb wrote:

I recently purchased a Birch Portable 78 player in remarkable cosmetic condition. I assumed it was also in remarkable playing condition as well but I find that the tone arm will not track across the record; it is stiff at the pivot point. Is this something I can repair myself? I took out the screws and the C Clamp holding the platter on but now I am stymied. Can I just lube this arm and if so, How? If I have to file the pivot point, how do I get to it? Thanks in advance for your advice. I have had many Edison players in the past but never had a means to play my 78's and am looking forward to actually being able to use this. Pictures here:




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Sorry about that, Dan. As noted, I attempted to move your post to this section, but for some reason, it was deleted. In any event, the problem you describe is very common to portables equipped with a pot metal tone arm. I had a similar problem with Birch phonograph a few years ago, and was able to fix it by carefully unscrewing the lock-nut that connects the two halves of the tone arm together. (I believe it's on the top side of the tone arm, at the pivot joint.) Then, I took some very fine (#600) wet or dry sandpaper, and burnished the pivot joint. (I used oil to lubricate the sandpaper.) I remember that I worked with it for about 15 minutes, testing it every few minutes, until it worked smoothly.

HTH,
Joe_DS

The lock nut that separates the two halves of the tone arm is halfway up; mine won't track with the record; i.e., move laterally. I need to somehow lube the base of the tone arm where it swivels. These pics should give you an idea of what I'm trying to say.

Hi Dan:

Oh, the tone arm is stuck at it's base. You might try spraying a little WD-40 or penetrating oil onto the area and then moving the tone arm back and forth.

Since the tone arm base is riveted in place, the only other option would be to drill out the rivets so you can remove the entire tone arm in order to get at the bottom of the base. But, since the tone arm is held to the base with a pot metal ring, which easily cracks, it can be a problem removing it, even if you can remove the tone arm.

Hopefully a little oil will work.

Joe_DS

Well a little oil didn't work. So I carefully drilled out the rivets and took the tone arm off and find that the pot metal base is secured to the base of the steel arm with a c clip and is flanged at the end. This base was attached above the flange and slid down, then the rest of the arm was welded on behind it. You can see where the two sides of the arm have been joined. Anything I do to this will have to be done with the base still on the end of the arm. Maybe I can send the space with a sliver of 600g paper. There's nothing else to do. Incidently, the underside is stamped E. TOMAN 4 on the one side and Made In USA on the other.

Scratch that earlier post; Iwas able to slip the base off the end with a lotta tugging and twisting. So I sanded her throughly including the sides of the two flat washers and put it back together and... it still binds. What to try now? A parts phono? Or keep sanding?

DanStreb wrote:Scratch that earlier post; Iwas able to slip the base off the end with a lotta tugging and twisting. So I sanded her throughly including the sides of the two flat washers and put it back together and... it still binds. What to try now? A parts phono? Or keep sanding?

For the time being, I'd try sanding a little more. If you have a "polishing wheel" or whatever it's called, that might work too. I have to congratulate you for getting the tone arm off its base. The only time I attempted that, it cracked in half. If you can find some No. 400 wet/dry sandpaper, it might go faster.

Birch portables are nice machines. The only problem I've every come across involved the pot metal tone arm. Since these were VERY popular in their day -- late 1930s - late 1940s -- there should be replacement parts available if you can't get the tone arm unstuck.

And, while they do not sound as good as the earlier Orthophonic Victor portables and Columbia Viva Tonals--both of which had solid, steel horns--they still perform pretty well, with a clear, loud tone. By the way, if this has a repairable sound box (reproducer) you might want to look into getting the (now) hardened rubber gaskets that hold the aluminum diaphragm in place, replaced with new, soft ones. This made a tremendous difference in the sound quality of mine. I sold that a number of years ago, and wish I hadn't.

Dan,
I was trolling the 'Bay tonight looking for phono parts and almost tripped over this :

BIRCH

It might be worth a shot messaging (Is that a word?) them, to see if the tone-arm on that one moves freely. Plus you'd get spare parts!

Regards,
J.

P.S. I just noticed it's a different layout, but maybe someone here knows whether it's still the same tonearm?

I had noticed that earlier; he seems awfully optimistic with that opening bid.

Most acoustic machines are supposed to have grease between the moving and stationary parts.

Well I sanded the hell out of it with 240g paper, then 600 g paper, then oiled it and put it back together and it works fine. Other than the ugly little Phillips head screws I had to use to secure the base it looks and works great! Thanks to all.

DanStreb wrote:Well I sanded the hell out of it with 240g paper, then 600 g paper, then oiled it and put it back together and it works fine. Other than the ugly little Phillips head screws I had to use to secure the base it looks and works great! Thanks to all.

Hi Dan:

Thanks for the follow-up. Glad to know that the sand/polish method worked.

If you want to make the screws look a little more authentic, you can always fill in the groove with some plastic wood (or similar product) and then apply a few coats of black enamel (model airplane type) paint to the screw heads. Also, if you can find conventional, round-head screws, you could paint them black. I remember that the tone arm was held in place with black painted screws on the Birch model I used to have.

I regret selling mine, since it was a nice, lightweight portable, and the perfect thing to take along on picnics, etc. The one I have now, though well made, weighs 28 pounds--without records

Dan,

Glad to here it all worked out. Damn potmetal!

Regards,
J.