Cleaning the SURFACE of an AMI C-E Record Changing Mechanism

I am trying to clean all the crap on the surface of some AMI record changing mechanisms
(not lubrication).

I tired using ammonia, vinegar, dishwashing soap (and water) and cannot get all the brown stains off.
Has anyone had any luck cleaning these up. Also have the same problem on the AMI C mech base (even on areas that are not near any raised or lowered areas (relatively flat).

Since this is the area of the juke that does all the "heavy lifting" I would like this to be as clean as possible.

CoinOp

Very carefully test laquer thinner in a place that will not be obvious to see if it will damage the surface you are working with. I have used on metal surfaces with great sucess.

Best
Darrell

If the surface is painted, then I use "Mean Green" household cleaner. If the surface is bare metal, then I use Lacquer Thinner.

I have both in the garage. I'll try later today, and report back.

Thanks!

Ab-sol-lut-ly gar-an-tee that if you use Dy-no-mite on it, you will no longer see the "stains" !
All kidding aside, if there is a "dry cleaner" located nearby, see if you can get some "Perk". Test it before using, but I have never found anything it harms--but it does "clean"-- (EPA restricts it here--but it can be found, and very little, goes a very long way) Ron Rich

But Ron,

won't it all be discolored then?

The nice thing about being out in the middle of nowhere in Nevada (besides no traffic) is the lack of the strict california laws on everything! But, finding a dry cleaner is the hard part. I ended up buying a bottle or PERC on e-pay, just in case the other stuff won't work.

I will remember to breathe in the vapors, and will drink whatever is left in the bottle!

What will be dis-colored--the Dy-no-mited section ? I dono, as I have never tested it on this problem !
So, "test", at your own risk ! Ron Rich

(ron,
I think any parts left over will be stained, or burned. I don't know for sure, as I haven't used your method yet,
but I have been tempted!)


I tried the Laquer Thinner (Klean-Strip green), Mean Green, and Simple Green.
Have not been able to get any of those stains off -.

Is the klean-strip brand good for this, or should I try and find a different brand?

Any other suggestions?

How about "KaBoom"--the maker says it cleans "everything" ?
Ron Rich

I don't trust anything those guys sell.

Why are you in such an destructive mood today?

Well, now--do you "trust" Arm and Hammer, the baking soda makers ?
Just my "normal" mood when I am feeling good enough--
Ron Rich

I have found that #0000 steel wool works well, but gets greased up quickly. Doesn't remove any paint. I tried it in an inconspicuous spot for now.

Removes the stains, and leaves a nice sheen. I will see if it discolors over the next few days... I would rather not have to clearcoat it.

Any suggestions on the use of steel wool?

YES--I hope you removed that cover, far from the phono-- "steel wool" never should be used around anything "electric", as it will get in "places" and cause "shorts", and /or other problems-- This can happen instantly, or take years to manifest itself--a royal PIA to correct ! Ron Rich

But Ron,

won't the steel wool strands act like a fuse and burn out?

Yeah, I have all the electrics removed.

selector magnet banks are covered, and will be examined, shop vacd, air blown and examined again so bits o' steel do not clog the mech.

I also have some "synthetic steel wool" that I may try also, as it is green and easier to see.

Sometimes it will "burn out"--other times it gets into the mechanical parts, and just "gumz" them up !!