Help with Rockola 1000

As for where to oil--The "lube chart "misses" places--
Yes on all of the places you "arrowed", PLUS, down in between the two gears, and on the upper pivot points where the gripper turns, both in the "cracks", and on the outside bearings.
As for oil--I would not use any of the oils you located, other then the "blaster"--but watch out, where you "blast" ! "3 in One" does produce a 20 wt. oil which works for me--look for a photo of an electric motor, on the container. Also a GOOD auto supply store will stock it, or can obtain it. If you can't locate any, contact me off list, as I have both the "3 in One" and quart containers of it.
Ron Rich

i went to Lowes and I now think I have the correct oil.
I picked up 3 in 1 MOTOR oil, which says SAE20.
They also had liquid wrench penetrating oil in a squeeze bottle. everything else I found at the previous stores was in spray form.

I have the machine and motors oiled.
I mentioned earlier that the grabber motor has a fast and slow cycle.
When rotating it by hand, it stops at a certain point.

Am I correct in thinking that the motor slows down, by design, in a certain position, then reverses polarity and operates in reverse?
This would make it grab the record slowly and put it on the platter fast (or vice versa if I have it backwards)
Do I need to crank the motor, by hand, until it binds and then engage it on the grabber?
If so, should the bow be above the records when I engage it?

I put the motors back in an fired it up and the everything started working (grabber came down and the needle went to the platter).
There are no records in the magazine.
I don't know what I did and when I turned it off and back on, I don't get the same results (grabber has not moved).
Now, I don't register voltage at the motor connections, and I don't see any visibly blown fuses.

Not sure what I did, but I was super excited for all of thirty seconds.

OK--you have me confused--no power to the motors--why would you expect power to be applied to a motor--as I understand it, the TT is turning with the gripper in the play position ? If so, stick a record on it and see what happens-- Ron Rich

When I was testing the unit previously, I had 24+ direct volts on one pin of the grabber and magazine motors.
Last time I checked, I didn't register any power there.
I found a schematic here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Jukebox/ ... matics.pdf

When It did work, the magazine rotated, the gripper came down and the arm came over to an empty platter.
I shut it down as to not damage the arm / needle. When I fired it back up after rotating the assembly back to the home position, nothing moved.

Should I rotate the gripper back to the platter put a record on and see if it will spin?

I'm lost on this one--sounds like the sequence of events is "messed up"--
24 VDC is low ? Should be 28 + vdc -- check the service manual for operating sequence.
Did you check ALL relay contacts for burned contacts/ contact adjustment ?
Ron Rich

Thanks for the tip. Will check. I did notice one thing. If I rotate the magazine, it trips a mechanism under the gripper (brkt. Gripper rev. Rivet assembly) This will cause the magazine to power through one full cycle.

I got some new fuses today.
I pulled the grabber motor again (the one that runs, then slows, then speeds back up in cycles).
I turned the cam until the grabber motor engaged. It ran a few cycles and then tripped the grabber fuse.
I gather from previous posts that this motor should turn at a constant speed. I'm thinking, at the very least, this motor is blowing the fuse.
It should run constantly when on if the motor is engaged and the cam remains in the same position, correct.
If the above is correct, can penetrating oil fix such an issue? If so, should I just try oiling the gear or is there some other method (i.e. removing the cover)?

To answer your speed question, yes, it should run the same speed, if the power supply is not varying--- If you are unfamiliar with small motors, I strongly suggest you find a motor rebuilding shop, before you do further (irreversible) damage. Ron Rich

I found a used motor locally, so I'm not terribly concerned if I botch this motor. The used motor costs $100, and I am sure a shop would charge $60 to just look at this one.
I took off the bracket and cover and looked at the gear. It is a circular gear driven by a worm gear. The assembly is packed with grease.
The gap between the cog and the assembly allows you to push up the gear and disengage it from the worm gear (it can't be fully removed without removing the cog). With the gear disengaged, the worm gear turns freely. I was able to re-engage the circular gear and determine where the bog down was occuring. Looks like some teeth, on the gear, are a little out of spec.
I'm thinking a machine shop might be able to file down these teeth. Is this particular gear still available?

I doubt it--but I don't know for sure---
Ron Rich

Ron, took you advice and tackled the battery removal.
Just as you said, separate the boards unsolder the battery.
I soldered two leads into the board, and ran the wires outside of the case.
The stickers were still intact on the box (it had never been opened).
The board looked really good, so I think I dodged a bullet.
Here are some pictures:






Looking at these pictures , it looks like I put the red wire on negative, going to have to note that on the wires.
I got a soldering gun from lowes, which was awesome.
Any ideas for a battery?

Battery is not critical--almost any Ni-cad, 3.0 or above will work.
Ron Rich

Cool! Maybe I will cruise by the electric store to see what they have for batteries and battery terminal apparatus.

The battery just controls the memory functions, correct? It should be able to operate w/o battery for the time being, correct?