Issue with Wurlitzer 200 selection mechanism

I purchased a 2150 several months ago. It was obviously used for lots of parties. Unfortunately, the parties were being held by rodents judging by the amount of mouse excrement coving the unit. In any case, I've got the thing all cleaned up, had the amp rebuilt and have it in mostly working condition. My two remaining problems are alignment of the record changer arms and the pawl/cog not catching when the motor reverses. I am hopeful that I can figure out the alignment issues; however, the other problem has me stumped. Further, there is nothing in the manuals I have that help me out.

Basically, when a selection is made, the arm moves, hits the selector pin and the motor reverses. Here is where the issue is. 90% of the time, the shaft/gear rotates but nothing happens. There is a component that consists of a couple of black metal pieces, a copper piece and a piece of spring steel, which is mounted on a screw and should engage with one of the gears mounted on the shaft. If I lightly push in one end of this component, it will catch on a tooth and the reversing actions occur (selected pin depressed, arms go up, record plays). I have removed the piece and cleaned and oiled so that it moves freely on the screw, but that hasn't resolved things. When I look at the component, it has a cut out area where it appears a pin/screw of some sort should go through. Maybe another pivot point. As currently installed, the spring steel would seem to serve no purpose so I am convinced it is not installed properly, or it is missing some piece. Again, the manual is not much help. It is my understanding that this 200 selection mechanism is used for a variety of models. Anyhow, before I take everything apart again, and stare at it for a couple of days, I thought I would seek the advice of this august group. Thanks

Hi Old Goat,
My advice would be to look at the parts section of your Service Manual, for some guidance, if you can't find it in the service portion. Also, it might help someone else to understand your problem, as you will be using "WurliTzer terms" to describe it--
Ron Rich

That is one of the most frustrating aspects of this. I have the 2150 manuals, but it uses the changer mechanism from the 2100, so I have that one as well. both print and a CD version with lots of manuals Neither show an 'exploded' view of the parts or at least not in any way that I am able to discern the issue. It appears to be the gear and ratchet assembly, which is part 59732. It 'feels' to me like the strap and spring assembly may be at play here (can't see any part number for that). Speculating that this assembly should be providing tension on the pawl to engage.
Thanks
Brooks

Given the issues with the part numbers, I thought a picture might be helpful. The hole in the center is where the screw goes, allowing the component to pivot. Above that hole is the horseshoe shaped hole that would seem to be there for a reason, perhaps on another post?

Brooks, here are two scans from the original shop manuals:

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=2&o=92

http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=2&o=93 Hover mouse over pic and click the fourth gray button to enlarge or scroll down to "download".

You'll see reference to a spring on the "friction drive gear" which is actually a metal strap around the main shaft. When the motor reverses the strap jogs the pawl assembly to engage with the driven (large) gear and initiate record handling.

If the spring is there and nothing else appear missing, the usual cause is just gummy old oil turned to molasses. Using a heat gun to free it up and adding new, lighter oil to dissolve the old followed by 20wt after the mech has been working a day or so will often clean up the problem

This sort of thing is why I always partially disassembled mechanisms and washed them with diluted floor stripper and hot water. A lot of these problems "go down the drain" that way.

Rob/NYC

Thanks, I'' give that a try
Brooks

OK, I can see the small spring so I think everything is there. When running through a cycle, the friction drive gear did not always move so I am confident your analysis is spot on. As for taking my heat gun to it, any advice or words of caution? Do I use a low setting and keep moving? Is the intent to liquefy the gunk to the point where I should see it begin to flow out? Or simply heat it up some, try it out and if it doesn't work, heat it up some more? Do I need to let it cool down before running a cycle? Or try it while it is still hot?

Thanks again for the fast accurate diagnosis
Brooks

Brooks, the idea is to heat up the old oil enough that it loosens up and allows parts to move and also absorb the thinner oil to flush the bearing surfaces.

Heat it up enough that you can't hold onto it but don't use a blow torch. If you see some bubbling that should be quite enough. Try running it while hot and flowing new oil at that time too.

Rob

Many thanks to Rob as everything seems to be working. I did have one other issue, so to close this thread out in case someone else experiences the same problem:
After heating up and cleaning out, the mechanism still worked intermittently. Both the friction gear and pawl assemble moved freely, but the pawl did not catch as it should. The friction gear has three tabs on it. Two are used to hold the spring. The third, which is 180 degrees from the other two should be positioned into the horseshoe cutout of the pawl. In the post with the picture, I speculated that a post of some sort may go into that area. After cleaning up and positioning the tab on the friction gear into the horseshoe opening, all appears to be working as it should (knock on wood...and by all, of course, I mean this issue, on to the next one I go)
Brooks