New Member with Wurlitzer 2800 Project Questions

Hey everyone

I've just had the chance to pick up a Wurlitzer 2800 & have begun the process of cleaning it up and troubleshooting its issues. When the machine is turned on it automatically loads a record and will continue to play said record over and over. There is bass from one of the speakers but it's clear the amp and possibly speakers will need repair. Most selection keys simply click into place but initiate no response from the device and neighboring keys must be used to raise the depressed keys. There are a few alphanumeric selections that trigger a response from the machine the in form of a loud clunk followed by both keys being released but no change in record is made. I also notice that the selection lever that pushes the record into place remains raised on the left side of the jukebox while the record spins. The lever on the right sides appears to have been tied back so as not to rise. The reset button on the back of the machine retracts the arm on the left side along with the record for a second and then it raises back into place. There have been a few random rotations in the mechanism made during this reset function resulting in a different record being repeatedly raised into place.

I've downloaded the manual and read through it a couple times. Plan to begin by cleaning and lubing everything. Would love any advice to help point towards the current strange behavior it's currently exhibiting. Seems the loading lever should not be staying raised, nor should the right side lever be tied back.

Thanks everyone... looking forward to bringing this machine back to life!

Pat

Hi Pat,
Obviously there are numerous problems in that unit. I can't speak for you, but for me it would require that I understand what SHOULD happen, WHEN, so I could determine what IS/is not, happening ! Therefore, I would start by un-plugging the phono, and sitting down with the ( printed --for me) manual--the very next thing I would do is to verify that the fuses installed were the correct type and size. Ron Rich

Seems the loading lever should not be staying raised, nor should the right side lever be tied back.

Pat, the loading arms stay in those positions during playback. The side where the record is selected stays up and the other side stays against the bottom of a record divider on the opposite side.

You are obviously beginning work on this machine from a cold start so, I suggest reading the manual, and looking at Wurlitzers from that era on YouTube and checking out photos online to familiarize yourself with the basic operation of the mechanism.

The amp -must- be rebuilt for safe operation. Capacitors are the main items needing replacement. If you feel capable of doing this work yourself there are two options: Buy separate components, or, buy a kit from someone such as Vern Tisdale. http://www.verntisdale.com/Wurlitzerpage.htm

If you don't want to deal with this yourself, there are individuals who still do this work. Some are listed in the stickies above.

Two things are crucial on these machines; proper lubrication and amp-power supply rebuilt.

Rob-NYC

Thank you Ron and Rob for the early suggestions. I've unplugged the phono from the Junction Box and Amp Input - removed the whole phono unit actually for better access for cleaning. I've also replaced all fuses with correct amp.

Now that I've unplugged the phono nothing happens when I turn on the jukebox except for lights turning on. The alphabetical selection keys elicit no response nor do they stay clicked down. The numeric keys stay clicked down.

After studying the mechanism, I can see that the record lift arms are staying up because the lobe on the main cam that pushes them down is 180 degrees from the position that would hold them down. Can't find a section in the manual that mentions how to correct this or how to turn the main cam manually. Can anyone offer any suggestions?

Thanks again!

I am not clear as to this statement:

Now that I've unplugged the phono nothing happens when I turn on the jukebox except for lights turning on.

If you have removed the mechanism or its multi-prong plug from the amp it will be unpowered and none of the externals will work either due to the safety switch up in the arch assembly that kills all power if triggered or disconnected.

After studying the mechanism, I can see that the record lift arms are staying up because the lobe on the main cam that pushes them down is 180 degrees from the position that would hold them down. Can't find a section in the manual that mentions how to correct this or how to turn the main cam manually.

There is a knurled knob on the lower end of the mech motor shaft, that is used for manually operating the mech in servicing. To retract the lift arms turn the knob so that the cam appears to turn from left to right as viewed from the rear of the machine. It is tedious and thin gloves are a good idea. If the mech is stalled with arms left up while it is fully connected to the amp/psu it is usually due to a faulty over-center switch at the rear under the motor. With power on manually turning the motor knob will sometimes get the mech to take off once a switch flips.

Rob

Thanks Rob - I thought that disconnecting the the multi-prong plug from the phono to the junction box might trigger a safety switch as you have said. That makes sense. So I will have to plug that back in to test the function of the remaining components.

I recall seeing the small whitish plastic gear/knob on the bottom of the mech motor - is this the knurled knob you're talking about? I did turn it with power off yesterday with no result, but it sounds like this needs to be done with everything connected and power on, correct? I will give it a go when I get home this evening.

Pat

The knob on the motor has a large gear reduction so it take a lot of turns to see any movement of the cam.

I suggest trying this with the mech connected and powered as it may take off if the problem is a problem in one of the switches at the rear.

BTW: The safety switch is actuated by a screw at the lower left of the fan-shaped assembly in front of the turntable (called a 'stripper plate"). If it gets jostled just slightly by a record that didn't fully return to the carousel it kills all power except lights. If the machine appears dead w/no light in the tubes this is one of the places to check.

Rob

Hi Pat,
I noted that you said that you "replaced all the fuses, with correct ones"--My question is: Didja do this because they were "overszed" ??
If so, it is very possible that the "correct size" fuse may have blown ! Some people think that a repair job consists of installing a large enough sized fuse that will not blow--I have seen cut nails, brass rods and foil wrapped, round blown fuses, inserted into fuse holders--also have seen wires soldered across the holder terminals--duh--REAL schmart !!

Didn't get a chance last night to work on the Wurlitzer. I'll try turning motor knob with the machine powered on. Will also double check the safety switch...

Ron - there was no weirdly oversized fuses or other hacks. A couple of the fuses were 10A in 8A positions and the 1.6A fuse was unlabeled/unreadable so I replaced it with a 1.5A fuse.


Will report back with the mech motor knob/main cam adjustment...

Hi Pat,
Well a 10amp fuse, in an 8 amp. position does not seem too bad, until you consider that the phonograph builders always used the MAXIMUM size fuse that would pass the UL inspection--- NO care was given if the fuse would blow prior to the transformer, in most cases--"Marketing people", and "bean counters" always insisted on this ! Just needed to pass UL, for "fire safety" purposes. Ron Rich

Hey Guys

Finally had some time this weekend to get out to the shop and work on the Wurlitzer. Got a fair bit accomplished:

1. Record lift arm retract issue was sorted out. The mechanism was continuing to play the same record over and over without cancelling & I've figured out that the selector crank is not cancelling the selection (not pushing down the memory pin). Once the memory pin is manually pushed back down, the mechanism makes a full sweep and retracts the record lift arm and goes into standby. Once a new pin is selected the selector crank sweeps around and hits the raised memory pin, but rather than staying over the top of the raised pin and pushing it back down, it reverses back about 1/5 revolution and then lowers - which of course doesn't reset the raised memory pin. Would appreciate any pointers in adjusting the selector crank to stay over the raised memory pin.

2. The spring loaded fingers at the top of the right record lift arm had come loose, which explains why someone had tied that arm back. I was able to disassemble and bend the spring back into position - so that record lift arm looks to work like it should.

3. I removed the phonograph and record carousel, cleaned and lubed everything - including the underlying bearings. Top end of the machine seems to look and act pretty well at this point.

4. Lastly, I've begun troubleshooting the keyboard selection. It was thoroughly cleaned with contact cleaner and compressed air. Selection bulb replaced. None of the keys stick anymore and the selection light illuminates and solenoids charge when the free record play switch is activated. Some of the alpha-numeric selections trigger the record selection mechanism to turn and the memory pin to raise. Others need to be held down for this to happen. Others elicit no response at all. I have yet to delve further into the service manual for this troubleshooting...

Thanks for the help guys!

Pat

Pat,
It would be helpful if you used the Service Manual terms--
Your first problem is a faulty/dirty and if "played with", a mal adjusted back stop pawl.
It would be my guess that this is why you had the 2nd problem--a messed up spring on the lift arm tips (aka "Duckbills").
Back stop pawls should NEVER be "lubricated", in any way !! -- They were factory adjusted and painted (usually gray paint) in place. If moved, one MUST follow the instructions in the manual--exactly !!
Do you have a keyboard that has one, or two coils on it ? Either way, keyboards are prone to having "dirty leaf switch contacts", which can NOT be cleaned with a contact cleaner spray--see above "contacts" posts. Ron Rich

Hey Ron,

Thanks for the response. I will try to stick to service manual terminology!

I did not adjust the backstop pawls. They still have the (factory?) paint markings. BUT I think I see part of my problem... the trouble with the selector crank hitting the pin and rotating backwards was noted while the record carousel was off the machine, so the pawls could not do their job. (Insert head slap here).

My keyboard has 2 solenoids. I will read your post about properly cleaning leaf spring contacts.

Thanks again!