SEEBURG V200D Mech Question.

Hi Ron,

I have bought your SEEBURG Mech Book (It's great: Thanks for all the work, also your granddaughter), but I still have a question:

My V200D Box works All Right (when the arm is on the left side): selects, plays, rejects, scans etc. OK.

However, if it has to select the other side of the singles (arm at the right hand side), the table moves approx 3/4 cm. to the left (due to axial play) and would ruin the needle because the record hits it when putting on the table.
When I gently force the table to the right whilst selecting the right sides of the singles (taking out the axial play of the turntable), everything works OK.

The cause is therefore too much axial play in the turntable shaft: it almost looks as if the steel washers (item 13), were omitted during the conversion (see below).
But if I take this axial play away, by adjusting the screw at the right side of the turntable, the box neither works well left of right, : single rubs against the record magazine.

Do I have to remove the axial play as per the book with the adjustment screw, and then adjust the single rack?
Can you please advise how? Is it as per the Seeburg manual page 2317: Tormat Memory Unit Position".

2nd question:
2 screws plus bent washers of the record table (position 25 and 23) on page 2355, 245ST1-L6 MECH, are missing.
However, the table is stuck on the ball bearings (if I look at the drawing, I think it should be able to move from the bearings? Is this indeed so? At present pulling on the table moves the entire shaft. I do not to want to force something, if I do not understand how it is supposed to be dismantled.

I have bought 2 screws (25) plus tabs (23). Where do these tabs locate behind? (Are they intended to fix the ball bearings into the table.
I intend to install these screws+ tabs before carrying out any furher adjustments,

I think all of the above is a legacy of the past: the box was converted in the early 1960's to 50C/S operation (by intalling a different Fibre gear: this was apparently not done very neatly!

A lot of questions, but I hope you could give me a few tips.

Thanks & All the Best!

Martin Bosma, Netherlands

Hi Martin,
1. I don't think many -if any TT shafts had an of the item 13, steel washers installed--I have not removed many, but I do not recall ever seeing a washer there ? The (.187) steel ball (10) tends to become "flat" due to lack of/ improper lubrication, and must be changed when this happens--Play should be adjusted to .003-.005 using the Allen screw ( which should have a flat bottom).
2. Who knows ?? if the screws/nuts are missing, perhaps someone "glued" the TT to the bearings ??--they sometimes do "bind", by them selves.
Ron Rich

Ron,

Thanks. Somehow, the problem lost itself.
I was trying to pull the table of the bearings : No luck.
But pushing it to the right moved it a little (but not back).
But when I took the play out with the allan screw (as far as it could), the box now plays A & B sides AllRight! Problem solved.
Thanks for the help !!

BTW
(I was thinking to make a puller (like for puller for a motocycle chain sprocket), to pull the turntabe off the ball bearings.
Did such a special puller once exist as SEEBURG special tool??
Cheers,

Martin

Martin,
Did you look at the steel ball--if "flat" it should be replaced !
No--never saw a puller for that--often thought of making one also--never did--
Ron Rich

Hi Ron,

Ball is missing: Should it be a 3/16" Ball = 4.762 mm? Then I should be able to get it in a Bicycle shop: wheel ball bearings. We have alot of these shops over here .
http://www.fietspunt.nl/nl/kogel-3-16-4 ... wwodhxIADA


Still somehow the turntable is still too much to the left: one or two records get stuck and the safety pall works All Right!
I will try to move the table further to the right on the ball bearings, Have soaked everythin with IMAL penetrating oil (works most of the time better than WD40). We will see, if the bearings come loose (I can change the rubbers then as well).

BTW Ron, I lubed the mechanism with a modern synthetic 10W60 motorcyle racing oil (AGIP 10W60). These synthetic motor oils have fabolous cleaning capabilities: All the gunk comes off easily and the rollers are all turning now and shiny :what do you think?
I see in your book that on the newer Lub Charts, Seeburg was talking about "an improved special oil" : Would this also be such an synthetic oil?
Well, I will see ( I have this box already many years and used to use sewing machine oil, but that indeed evaporates and leaves a residue; I now understand that using such an oil was wrong.

Time will tell. Thanks for your help. BTW I found also a few good videos on YOUTUBE on the M100C mechanism: especially on the clutch; nevertheless would never dare this dismantle that one.

Cheers, Martin

Martin,
As I wrote above--that ball is .187--
And as I wrote in the mechanism guide, I still use, and recommend 20 wt. ND motor oil--ONLY !
I have no idea what the "improvement" was in the oil ?? But they called it that for years--
Ron Rich

Hi Ron,

Installed 3/16" ball and turntable screws plus tab washers and removed the axial play.
The box is now working nicely. Many thanks for your advice!!

(BTW 3/16" ball (standard ball size) is close enough to 0.187" in my book: just teasing .

Will have to see how those modern multigrade synthetic car oils behave in jukeboxes,
That modern synthetic oil is more more slippery, evaporates less and cleans all the dirt off. Therefore you are never allowed to use it in old car engines because the loosened dirt may plug your engine galleries, but in this mechanism it should be OK (in my opinion).
Aergh, agail an oil thread. Sorry!!

Thanks again & all the best. Martin