Deutsch Grammophon

Folks,

I just bought this little phonograph:












The plaque reads:
Grammophon - Niederlage
JOHANN ARLETT
Geriohtlich Beeid Sachvarständiger
Für Die Erzeugung Von Sprachmaschinen U. Platten
WEIN, VII Kirchengasse 15

The motor is a Polydor 28

Is this a German version of the HMV 101? Any information on this machine would be most appreciated. Years of manufacture? Model number/name? Rarity of this machine? Tips for restoring? What did the handle look like?

Yesterday I cleaned any dust and grime off the motor, added grease and oil where needed. I re-glued the velour on the platter. And started cleaning the case with GoJo cleaner. I sealed the connection between the tone-arm and the horn with white grease as well as the pivot in the tone arm itself. I need to replace on of the lid hasps. Any tips? The leatherette covering is ripped and rotted along the edges. Any tips on repairing and/or replacing the covering? I'm going to try re-dying the velour on the platter. The reproducer needs new gaskets. the diaphragm gasket material looks like the same tubing as in a Victor Exhibition, however I have never seen anything like the rear isolator gasket here in the U.S. (photo later) I don't know if I can ever track down a replacement? It is still a little soft so maybe I can get along with it as is. I need to replace on of the hasps and find a key as well.

Thanks.

Regards,
J.

Gents,

I've nearly finished cleaning it.



Sorry 'bout the dark photo. I don't seem to be having much luck with the camera lately.

The case cleaned up pretty darn good with GoJo. Bill's sending along some gasket material for me to take a crack at the reproducer-more on that later. The turntable was an interesting experiment. That is the original velour you saw in the first photos. It is glued to a piece of cardboard which was glued to the metal platter. Rather than try to salvage the center grommet if i replaced the velour, I re-glued the cardboard backing to the platter last night with yellow glue. I also put a bead of glue in the slot around the rim that the material is tucked into as originally done. To restore the velour I boiled up about a third or a bit less of a bottle of Rit liquid navy blue dye. Letting it simmer I used a cheap 2" paint brush to lightly paint the dye onto the velour, making sure not to unevenly soak the material. I followed the weave of the fabric, stopping occasionally to blot up any excess. I then put the whole shebang in the oven at 200° or there abouts for approximately 45 minutes. I shut off the oven and left it in there 'till it was cool enough to remove without a mitt. I then rubbed it down with paper towels to absorb any dye and at the same time brushed and fluffed the velour. Only time will tell if the time has set properly but it looks pretty darn good right now.

I had to adjust the speed control dial-that was easy, two screws and a pivot point on the rod to the governor (To the left of and above the "P" of Polydor in the close-up of the motor in my first post). Locks and a handle next....

Regards,
J.

Hi John:

I was able to lighten the photo a bit using my HP "Image Zone" photo editor software:




I understand that, with the exception of some hardware differences, this is virtually identical to the HMV 101. Certainly, the horn/tone arm look the same, as does the case.

You did an excellent restoration job. I would think that the dyed velour should be no problem. In any event, it looks great.

As for the sound box; if it is based on the HMV #4, then it should do well on early electrical recordings. The two main issues would be the gasket material and the adjustment of the needle bar pivot. The gaskets should suspend the diaphragm in place without clamping it in order for the sound box to project an even frequency range--treble to mid-range. If the gasket material is very soft and pliable, you may do well to brush a thin layer of shellac or other light sealant onto the surfaces of the gaskets where they come in contact with the diaphragm, as well as the sound box shell, to ensure an air-tight seal.

The needle bar pivot should be as also be adjusted for minimum resistance. One restorer I knew said that prior to attaching the needle bar's foot to the diaphragm, he made the adjustment. He said that to test the adjustment, he blew a puff of air onto the needle bar to test for slight movement, required for correct tracking. He also checked to make sure that there was no "side play" or movement of the needle bar opposite to that required to track the record. In other words toward the direction of the pivots. Any slight movement in this direction will cause the sound box to rattle or buzz on certain notes.

I have to say, I'm a little jealous. The HMV 101s seldom come up for sale in my area. The last one I saw, which bore a French label, was for sale at a now defunct flea market in Oakland, Cal, about 15 years ago. It was in good condition, but the seller didn't have a clue as to it's potential value. He had priced it $1,000.00, and was not willing to come down one penny. (Need I add that it was sitting on a table next to old, rusty auto parts and oil-stained boxes full of junk?)

Again,
You've done a Great Job!

David,

Thanks for the information. It's going to be interesting to see how I make out with the Sound-Box. Heh Heh! Patching the covering is going to be a challenge as well. The bottom is ripped and somewhat rotted.

Regards,
J.

John, you did a spanking job of restoration on this portable. Don IV (on the other Board) has an Electrola 101-esque portable, which is similar, but a direct product of The Gramophone Co., and thus virtually identical to the 101, while this is from their former subsidiary DG, which split off in WWI. Interesting differences.

Adam

Gents,

Put new gaskets in the reproducer tonight (Thanks Bill!)





The old gasket material was hard as a rock. I was able to replace the front material without removing the needle-bar. The whole thing tilted back far enough to fit the front gasket in. I put a drop of oil on either side of the pivots on the side of the needle chuck. The needle chuck is round BTW, I hadn't noticed that before. The back isolator is something else. Fortunately it's still soft.

David, The design of the case left scant room for the gasket material. It was squashed in there pretty good from what the original gaskets looked like. So I thought I'd try it without any shellac. I may re-do it after I've got a bit more experience with re-building these.

Adam, I am curious about Don's Electrola. the design almost looks like a 101 in a 102 case. I'm wondering if there is a difference between the horns of the 101 & 102. Thanks for the compliment, it's coming along. The bottom is the real problem. I haven't shown photos of that yet.

Regards,
J.

John, what is that gizmo on the lower right of the motorboard? Looks like a small, thin tube, situated horizontally, that extends below?

Adam

I'm wondering if there is a difference between the horns of the 101 & 102.

Hi John:

The overall shape of the two horns is roughly the same in that they both wrap around the motor area, but since the 102 has a wider tone arm, the 102's horn starts our "larger" and the taper is less gradual than the 101's horn. The mouth of the 102's horn is also larger, running along the back edge of the case, so that the tone arm is mounted in front of it, as you can see in this photo --

In contrast, the 101's tone arm is mounted to the right side of the horn's mouth, at the back of the cabinet.

beaumonde wrote:John, what is that gizmo on the lower right of the motorboard? Looks like a small, thin tube, situated horizontally, that extends below?

Adam

Adam,

That's the winding key. There is a simple slot in the motor-board with two red felt covered blocks underneath. You can see them in the shot of the motor in my first post. I don't get the felt, being on the bottom rather than the sides of the blocks, I don't see what good it does!?!

David, The taper is what I was curious about. I figured the length would have to be about the same if not a bit shorter due to the tone-arm having to be placed further towards the front.

Regards,
J.