Rock-ola 453 selector buttons not working

Thanks Guy's for all the help. I'm gonna let it rest for a few days while we take a little trip. I am far from learning the correct "juke box" lingo, so forgive me for my lingo ignorance. Still don't know where the "4" trouble is but checking a little at a time, I did notice that on the module where the actual buttons are located (page 14, item 2) of the schematic drawing, that on a normal working selection, the solenoid on that module operates when the second digit is released. When I press a "4" as the second digit, the solenoid does NOT operate, actually nothing happens at all as if no button was pressed at all, other than the plunger being depressed. Ron, is this what you alluded in your message ie. "trouble in the selection interface PCB"? By the way, what does PCB actually stand for? I think that solenoid has to operate before the arm on the big wheel turns to the pins. It does appear that all the pins on the big wheel are free and not binding and a second digit 4 record can be selected manually by moving the desired pin. WEW, this thing is complicated, ain't it, but a whole lot of fun. Again, thanks. Mike

PCB= Printed Circuit Board--yes I suspect there is a problem on that board. Could be as simple as a plug contact not "making" or a component in that circuit is bad.
Ron Rich

Greetings all. I hope you are all enjoying this very nice Saturday! Well, I solved the screeching noise from the magazine wheel rotation. It was the motor that was making all that noise. I did not even have to take it apart or even off the machine. All I had to do was un-screw the motor brushings circle and apply a few drops of 3in1 sae 20 oil to the brushings, re installed them and ran the machine. Quieted it right up, no more screeching or grinding noise. It was kinda dry inside there so I figure it will help it. I'm happy since it does not make that sound anymore. Thank you Ron for recomending that I try and lube it first rather than replace. Very happy with the outcome. What kind of jukeboxes do you have Ron if I can ask? Well I am planning on painting the speaker grill a different color or possible shiny black, not sure yet, so I had to remove the speakers. I did that and I noticed that one of the speakers spiders is tearing on the side, seperating from the basket. It looks like it was eaten or something. It sounds ok still but I do think I should replace them now. However looking at the speakers I have never seen some like that before. They are 12 inch but they have a smaller paper cone in the center of them that is almost half the size of the speaker. Its not another speaker but like a paper horn off the center of the speaker. THey are full range according to the manual. Also the speakers have virtully no excursion. Is that normal? They sound awesome though, lots of bass from them. I did research on the numbers and found them to be Utah speakers. Do they still make full range 12 inch speakers? I have a few 12's lying around but they are just woofers and they have a foam surround rather than the paper pleats. Thanx again for your help guys.

Nick

Nick,
I don't collect jukes--just repair them for a living ! Glad the oil "did the trick"--Magic Stuff !!
As for the speakers, I would send them out for re-coning, rather then replace them, as the juke designers were very specific in speaker selection for each model.
Neal's Speaker Service has always done an excellent job for me ---nealspeaker2@msm.com Hopefully he will do the same for you, if you wish--
Ron Rich

Hey there Ron thanx again for your help with the issues. I was more less wondering if you had any jukes that you kept at all. I'm new to owning one but have always wanted one and am glad that I have one. Now to find some newer 45's to put into it. Yes the oil did wonders. Is there any other type of greese that you recomend using for the motor? I think I'm going to get a greese and lube it well inside there. It was quite dry and looked like it cooked the other oil inside there. Still works though. Anyways about the speakers. Thats ashame they will have to do a recone. They cones itself are perfect, just have years of dust on them but have not a single tear or hole in either of the cones. But like I said they both have virtually no excursion and I'm shocked at the bass it puts out but, there is always room for more bass. I think I'm going to hit up some flea markets or craigs list and see if I can find some more vintage speakers with more excursion, to put into there instead of having a recone. I hate to ruin the speakers cone. Do you have any idea what the stock speakers ohms are by chance? I dont have an ohms meter.

Nick.

Nick,
I am not quite sure that I understand what is wrong with your speakers ? Not sure at all what the word "excursion" means.
If you are attempting to "get more bass", you must consider the cabinet. The engineers took that into account, and limited it, so that "things" would not rattle.
Your best bet is to use "remote" speakers in this case. Remember --it's a coin-operated phono-- NOT a "high end stereo system". Ron Rich

Hey Ron,
Thanx for your input. What's wrong with the speakers is that on one of them, the spider looks like it was eaten or something on one side. The speaker still works fine but I'm thinking that it might break more as it is played and will eventually break. The cones are in perfect shape. Excursion in a speaker is the amount the speaker cone travels during music playback. These speakers have like no excursion I have never seen that on a speaker of that size before. I'm just not sure if that's normal or not. Bass is fine now as is sound, I guess I'm more curious as to if this is normal for jukebox speakers, as this is my first one I have owned and don't have another to compare it with.

Nick.

Hi Nick,
I have never "watched" a jukebox speaker ? If it sounds OK, I just assume it to be OK ?
Thanks, Ron

Hello Ron and Nick. Back in town now and resuming tinkering with the Rockola 453. The problem with not being able to select the number "4" as the second digit. The "4" can be selected ok as the third digit in a selection. You mentioned the problem might be in the selector PCB. Is that board a unit that can still be obtained? and who/ where ? I think I see the SD of the board on page 30 of 156, so would the bad component be in the section 4 of that SD. If so, maght be able to just replace the bad diode or capacitor. Haven't had a chance to even locate the board on the player yet, so still looking. Also will resume looking for the bad eratic humming, cracking, static noise when the player is powered on. Makes this noise whether or not a record is playing. Anyway, thanks for all your help. Mike

Nick,
Yes the board can be repaired--crackling in the audio is NOT good--amp needs to be re-built PRIOR to "blowing up".
Ron Rich

Greetings all. The Rockola 453 is still working great, on the hunt for new speakers for it. By chance do you know the ohms for the speakers? I believe they are 8 but not sure. The manual does not mention the speakers ohms. They can take 4,8 or 16 ohms according to the back but would like to replace the internal ones with the same ohms. I dont want to bother with a re-cone. Would be ideal but, I'm too impatient to wait for them to get there, then be fixed, then sent out.

Hey Mike welcome back. Hows the process with your Rockola coming? Did you get that PCB out and test the possible bad components? I'm not to sure if you can get a brand new one of those anymore however, some glass company bought all of Rockolas exsisting stock so, they might have what you are looking for. Not sure if its just glass they bought or everything they had left. Some other guy told me that who works on Rockolas, might be victory glass Co. That or you could always try e-bay. I'm sure there will be others with the same Jukebox. I'm not sure whats causing that noise in your amp did you take that apart yet and look inside? I believe there are like cards inside there that are replaceable.
Good Luck Mike let us know whats up.

Nick

Nick,
There are more things to be considered then "ohms" when replacing a speaker. I strongly suggest that you re-cone them, as the factory engineered them for that cabinet and electrical system. If you want to know what the "ohms" on yours are, un-plug one and use a meter to read the resistance-- It will read slightly less then the rating that way--a 16 ohm will read ABOUT 12 ohms--and 8 ohm ABOUT 6 ohms, a 5 ohm ABOUT 3 ohms. Ron Rich