CD8 Rockola Pilaster installation

Hello All. About a month ago I posted about a damaged pilaster from a burst bubbler tube. After a lost package (courtesy of UPS) it finally arrived. But, here's the part I need expertise with, the replacement pilaster (57386-01 Rockola part-no.) is larger than the one in the jukebox. I removed the stained pilaster and tried to put the new one in. It fought me every step. I could get the one end in but that was it.

The replacement is taller by about 3/8" and wider on each side by about a 1/4" each side. If I stand the pilasters side by side the new is clearly taller. When I place the end to end to match the curves, each side is wider on the replacement. It looks as if it needs trimmed to fit.

To be certain that it wasn't me (or just plain lack of ability on my part) I put the original stained one back in and it goes in just fine. I am hoping that others have replaced a damaged pilaster and can lend some advice. At this point, I am pretty certain that it needs trimmed but how to do it?

Thanks and Merry Christmas!

Ron

Ron,

Before trimming the pilaster, I would call Rock-Ola again and make sure that you have received the proper part. It may be that RO has changed the cabinet styling somewhat and sent a newer / older version of the pilaster.

After that, trimming the pilaster can be achieved in a few different ways. You should lay the old pilaster inside the new one and mark what needs to be trimmed off. Then you can use a Formica cutter along the line to scar the material. You will need to keep working the line until you have cut at least half way through. At that point, you can snap off the remainder and clean up the cut with a utility knife. Secondly, you can remove the excess with a tabletop belt sander acting as a "grinder" to take off whatever is excess. OR, you can use a table saw with a fine toothed blade like those for plywood. With any of these techniques the most important factor is supporting the pilaster so as not to crack it and going SLOW.

Moreover, since you are going to discard the damaged pilaster, you might use it as a practice sheet to hone your technique.

Respectfully,

David

David,

Thank you. I did contact RockOla and exchange emails with Jorge. He was very fast in his response and did acknowledge that the pilaster would need trimmed. He suggested cutting shears or offset aviation snips.

The main thing for me was to be certain that they need trimmed. There was no notice or instructions with the new pilaster. I plan on doing what you suggested, in laying the old inside the new. I also plan on then laying the new inside the old and marking with pencil to see the difference of the two marks (lines). My cut should be right in between them.

And slow is going to be the key. Also warm to prevent splintering. The plastic is a little more flexible than some plexiglass but is the kind of plastic that if you used a saw or something that spun too fast, it would definitely melt it a bit. I'll post how it turns out.

By the way, the sides will likely be easiest but the top will be tough going across all the ripples and indentations. I may just put a large hole in the top for the hold down screws to go through. It will depend on how the sides cut. The trimming is so darned little but will never fit the way it is. Fortunately, there will be a about a quarter inch that I can play with even if I trim it back too far.

Have a Merry Christmas! I am hoping to have this all ready for my Christmas visitors.

Ron

Hello Ron,

I would suggest that the part is indeed the wrong part, it should not need trimming. I know that there a number of different trims that were available from www.victoryglass.com.
Antique Apperatus a subsidiary of Rock Ola made cabinets for Rowe Ami and used Rowe Ami parts in their version of the "One More Time". It was eventually fully taken over by Rock Ola who then started using their own mechanism and parts.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Alan,
You got it a little bit backwards here --
Antique Apparatus started out making the "1015", type, repro cabinets. They purchased RoweAMi components (both 45 rpm, and later CD), and installed them into the cabinets. After awhile, they also supplied the cabinets to Rowe, and continued installing RoweAMi components in their own cabinets. Around 1993, Mr. Rockola sold his phonograph division to AA. At that point, they began using RockOla components in their then, re-branded, RockOla, CD only, products. They have since sold the commercial "downloader" biz to the company that purchased Rowe a few years ago. This company is more or less going by the name (in the USA--only??), "ami entertainment". They "produce" the Rowe and RockOla brands of product--in Mexico (mostly of parts made in China). AA still produces home products under the "RockOla" name, made also mostly from Chinese electronic parts, here in the USA. I believe that they are still making cabinets here, however-- Ron Rich

Thank you, all, for the input. This Jukebox is a commercial (coin operated) version with Orange Rockola Amp and power supply, etc. The cabinet was made by Antique Apparatus Company. The production date is Oct of 2000.

I wish I was able to take a picture of the pilaster prior to my trimming of it. The curves and bubble view clear section were perfectly aligned but each end of the curved pilaster was, indeed, longer (wider) AND the overall height was about 3/8" taller. I was a little disappointed in that it was not a fit. To me, it was kind of like buying a new tail light lens for your car and being told to trim it so it fit.

But, at least Jorge (Rock-OLa (AA) parts/service man) did confirm this fact. There can be no way they are trimming them on the fly as they build them (At least I THINK they are still building them albeit different electronics). I also checked the part number in their manual for CD8 Bubblers that is posted online against the parts manual that was supplied with my 2000 version. Same part number, 57386-01. But, on to the trimming and if how worked or not.

It did work out. Jorge from AA-Rockola suggested Offset Aviation snips or Shear cutters to do the trimming. David (see post below) suggested a formica cutter or perhaps a table saw. Excellent suggestions. I had been thinking about doing the same thing. But instead, here is how I trimmed it. To determine how much to trim off each side, I placed the old pilaster inside the new one and held them together as tightly as i could without marring the inside surface of the new one and marked a pencil line along each side edge. That gave me the lines of each side to be trimmed.

Then, I placed the edge of the pilaster into my Black and Decker Workmate and clamped it so that I could just barely see the pencil line. Then I used one of those vibrating multi-function tools (like they sell at Harbor freight for 29.99) with the wide, rounded fine tooth blade. I held the blade flat on the work surface and gently and slowly ran it along the work surface, barely touching the pilaster that was clamped. It was like scoring it with the blade, but the blade actually cut deeper and if pushed would cut thru it.

I flipped it over and repeated the other side. I used a utility knife to carefully remove any burrs that may prohibit the edge from sliding into the narrow slot on the speaker side of the pilaster. Then I had to figure a way to do the top so I could shorten the pilaster.

There was no way I wanted to try freehand; I'm just not that good with a tool that vibrates to cut especially. Using the Workmate again, I clamped 3 wooden yard sticks down to the surface. These are the yard sticks available at Home Depot and are a perfect 1/4" thick (for like 60 cents each). I use them as fillers for wood working a lot.

I then had the lady of the house (this was the most dangerous part) hold the saw down on the top side of the yard sticks with about 1" of blade protruding over the edge and just hold it there steady. I stood the pilaster on its end and from the opposite side of the (the lower side of the surface since the yard sticks raised the saw blade), and I slowly moved the pilaster around the vibrating blade and trimmed the top edge. After cleaning it up with a utility knife, I went to do the install. It was just a little tighter than the one that came out but was not so tight as to give me pause to think of stress cracks, etc.

It really did not turn out to be all that bad, but I wish I hadn't had to do any of it. What causes those darn bubble tubes to burst, anyway? I took special care (Ron Rich's advice) when placing the bubble tubes back in. I made sure they were secure but had some slight movement ability. Sometimes when they forst start to bubble, they make a little banging noise like someone rolled a softball into the cabinet.

Thanks again to everyone and may everyone have a Merry Christmas (or Happy Holiday) and a Happy New Year.

Ron