Rock-ola 464 plays randomly, but doesn't process selections

Thanks guys. The popularity meter works. I just didn't understand what it was doing. I thought as much about the open connectors because I couldn't find anywhere they would plug in. What about my 2 and 2A micros witches not appearing to work. I know the buttons are being depressed by the cams revolution, but if the timing is off could that the reason they're not completing their circuits? According to what I can follow on the wiring diagram I believe I'm correct I read in the manual on how to adjust it so I'm going to start there because I don't know where else to look. If the cam is fine are we back to the wipers and slip rings?

On another note, I was reading past posts last night to try to better understand some problems and solutions (most are lubrication issues) and I discovered that some people you're helping just stop corresponding and you never know if they fixed it, gave up, or met with some kind of tragedy. I assume most of them are able to get their problems fixed and are either too happy or embarrassed and forget to let everyone know. It's like reading a story and getting left with a cliff hanger. Anyway, thanks for helping us.. You're not under appreciated.

When you say the "Micro Switches--are not working", what do you mean--have you tested them as per above, or you just can not hear them "click" ? Ron Rich

I bought new ones and replaced them. I can replace Micro switch 1 with 2A since 1 is definitely working. 2 doesn't appear to be completing it's circuit either as both work the counter and 2 is supposed to run the circuit through a resistor to slow down the tone arm. I don't have an analog meter or I would test them, but I believe the switches are fine. I just checked the cam adjustment and it may be off. The roller was centered in the cam groove and not up against the back part like the illustration shows. I'll locate my hex keys and pray this fixes it.

I watched some videos on how a micro switch works that have helped me understand it better. The yellow black wire is my common (power) the yellow wire is my normally closed and the black wire going to the counter is my normally open. I saw how to test with a digital meter so I'll see if my normally closed and open are good. What I want to verify is whether there is a load on the yellow black wire because I think the switches are fine.

The switches continuity tested fine. Both old and new. So what do I need to set my multimeter on to be safe to test for power on the yellow black wire? I have an ideal 61-310?




I'm guessing right where it's at in the image at 200 ACV. Red lead in temp/v/mA and black lead in com.

Don't worry. I'll disconnect the leads from the switch before I test yellow black on 2a and red blue on 2. I got my wires crossed earlier.

Hi set the meter to DCV 200 for dc volts the voltage you will be looking for will be in the region of 25 to 30 volts dc, black lead to the com and red lead to the V Ohms and mA
regards
clones

I should have realized that it would be dc from working on computers, but my head is dead. Thanks for sorting that out for me. I'll test it out when I get home. Oh! And it says -33 VDC on the diagram. Doh!

This just gets better and better. When I placed the red probe on the yellow/black wire and used the chassis as a ground I get a range from -00.3 to 00.7. Same with the red/blue wire to micro 2. I verified my settings at 200 DCV. Black probe in com and red in v/ mA/ ohm. I then played a selection with 2 and 2A completely off the machine and it played exactly the same. The switches aren't getting adequate power. Funny how it plays so well without them. Is it the play control relay? I really need help now.

I wanted to see how far it would go without the play control relay. The write in arm struck the selection, but the magazine motor didn't spin up. So it's probably not it.

I think I wasn't making good ground contact last night. I placed the ground probe on a steel bolt and I got roughly -30.0 on red/blue. Yellow/black I got nothing. So I decided to test the other wires. Yellow is hot at roughly -30.0 as is white (goes to gripper with a resistor). So is the manual wrong on the wire placement of micro switch 2A? I'm lost.

Also, the gripper motor still isn't slowing down the tone arm with ms 2 connected. It still moves the arm at the same rate.

From what I can follow on the wiring diagram yellow should be hot. Yellow/Black connects to COM (common. So that explains the readings I got, but I don't understand why they have the wire placement setup like they do on the switch because the examples I saw showed com having power and switching it between normal open and normal closed. The way 2A is setup it's switching a ground instead. I realize the word COM is where it connects on the switch and Yellow/Black traces to COM on the diagram but they never showed an example of that. I'm probably just too ignorant to follow.

In my haste, I may have hooked the play counter up wrong so I'm leaving it off the switches for now. Both wires are black and are connected to a capacitor. I did get the counter to advance by accidentally supplying power (The yellow wire touched the black wire to the counter).

clones wrote:Hi
It may be that the selection pins on the wobble plate are not being cancelled and as such any selections made previously are being repeated, this may be because the wobble plate slip rings need to be cleaned, a faulty micro switch (located behind the tone arm) or a faulty solenoid on the read out arm and clean the contacts of the read out arm, also check the plug connections in the machine
Clones

Which solenoid are you referring to, the one's on the hammer? I realize since I couldn't test the micro switches with an analog meter that they might still be my problem even though they're new. I'll buy or borrow one this week. In the meantime, can I test the solenoid(s) you're referring to?

Hi
I think the rating on the read out coils is around 50 ohms, the coils that i was referring to are on the read out arm
regards
clones

That's what I thought. They should be energized while the record is playing if I'm not mistaken. I've noticed that nothing is working that the 2 micros are connected to. The resistor imay be out on the circuit to the gripper motor, the counter doesn't work ( but it moved when the yellow wire briefly touched the black wire). I need to test the ground (yellow/ black)..

Would it be easier to test at the coils themselves or the wires at the center of the hammer that lead to the coils? I won't be able to test them until this evening anyway, but I think it might be easier from the center.

I think the read-out hammers only activate at the beginning of the record play cycle. They don't stay on all the time; only long enough to flip the lever back to the normal "untripped" position. Also check the brass spring thingy that hits the microswitch on the wobble plate. Mine was broken and laying in the bottom of the cabinet. Ron Rich educated me on that one.

Try monitoring your supplies during the record cycling, if possible. My 460 would activate the play relay for about 2 seconds and then drop out. The -30V supply was good until the relay kicked on and then it dropped to -7V, which would then kill the relay. Turns out the ceramic resistor that's supposed to be .56 ohms had jumped to 1100 ohms! It took awhile to figure out what the heck was going on. You may have a similar issue.

-Jim