Disable Autospeed on LS-3?

Wondering if it's possible to disable the autospeed on the LS-3. I have plenty of small hole 45s and probably wont ever play a 33 on my juke. I thought there may be a switch somewhere (still waiting on my manual) but I only found the harness connector on the DCC.

Rob, the latest sheet I have is for an LS-2. However there is always a relay that pulls-in to connect the speed unit. Simply disconnect one lead from that relay's coil. Ron may have a better suggestion.

BTW: Has that mech been oiled? Here is a lube chart: http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=3&o=58

Rob/NYC

Hi Robs,
You can just disable the SAS relay, or make-up a dummy plug as shown in the schematic. I see no difference--but you might want to disconnect the SAS board also--
On oil--great idea--but use ONLY 20 wt. ND motor oil !!
Ron Rich

Thanks guys (and an extra thanks for the unsolicited oil advice...I'm still at the "how does this damn thing work" phase so an oiling is a couple weeks away when I'm more familiar, I think)!

Rob,
"Oiling", IMHO, is the very first thing that should be done ! --Well, not really, --the very first thing to do is to READ the I and O Manual, then the Service Manual ( and maybe, my "Mechanism Guide" ?).--Then oiling it, should be done, prior to operating it ! Ron Rich

Yeah, I"m not really 'using it' at this point because its not selecting records yet. So, yeah, once I get the documentation and spend time reading it, I'll pay attention to oiling it immediately. Mostly as of now I'm cleaning contacts and looking around to get familiar while waiting for the guides.

Got this done this weekend and it worked perfect, thanks everyone!

Hey Guys, By the way I got my oil and did my best to start oiling the points as shown in the service manual...

HOWEVER: I cant get to anything on the 'front' (record rack side) of the mech. I'm assuming I have to remove the record rack to oil these points and make any adjustments?

Seems like that'll be a big job and I dont see how to do it documented in any docs I have. Help?

Rob, you do -NOT- remove the rack. once the mech is all the way to the left it should be easy enough to lube the clutch assembly and lift arm gears, etc from the rear.

There is a hole in the casting to the right of the motor which leads to the clutch shaft. I use a regular "zoom spout" oiler, the hose from that will hit the clutch shaft through that hole and a Liberal amount of oil applied there will work it's way down.

Rob/NYC

Whew! Glad you said that Rob...I was terrified of the thought of taking that out and then nothing re-aligning when I tried to put it back.

So it sounds like the answer is "get a long neck" to oil stuff with. But how about adjustments to the clutch? I've currently got quite a bit of wobble and it looks like "front" adjustments may be in my future

Rob,
The"oil hole", that Rob NYC mentions, may, or may not exist, depending upon which supplier made that casting--
Also, mechanical "ADJUSTMENTS" only need to be "adjusted", if parts are removed-re-placed--nothing on the mech, other then the detent switch, that I can think of, changes in adjustment ! Ron Rich

Rob_Feature wrote: But how about adjustments to the clutch? I've currently got quite a bit of wobble and it looks like "front" adjustments may be in my future

You'll need to be a bit more clear about "wobble". This may actually look more like limping due to flats on the carriage rollers -a common problem.

Excessive drag from the cable tail can cause the mech to shift.

The only clutch related problem here would be bucking or sitting and spinning when the mech enters, or leaves the changing cycle. In most cases adjustments won't fix clutch problems. It will require replacing the entire clutch, or just the clutch member. That is the part that shifts up or down.

Rob

Thanks guys, this is super helpful....the reason I was thinking clutch adjustments was because in ron's guide (I dont have it in front of me) it indicates that 'wobble' could mean the need for the clutch #3 adjustment. (I'm also trying to locate the rubber on the mech he mentions to see if it's dried out, but haven't found it yet)

So far I've oiled what I can reach but am intimidated to try anything else until I'm REALLY sure what I'm doing.

Rob, can you tell me more about the 'flats' on the carriage rollers? Not sure I understand what you mean. Also, can you clarify what you mean by cable-drag as well (which cable? dragging where?)

Rob,
Rob NYC, is talking about the rollers that the carriage rides on--they tend to have flatspots worn in them if not kept oiled. These are PICTURED in my Mech guide, on pages 29-30 (If you won't RTFM, at least look at the pics! ), and described in the text.
As for ID'ing the rubber parts--see the parts book, as I used the same item description, in the guide, as used there.
"Wobble"--don't recall mentioning that term--may have mentioned clutch 3 must not have excessive play when mechanism is in "play position"--see the Service Manual, for proper clutch adjusting procedure. In any case, "clutch adjustments MUST be at least, "checked" in order--1,2,3,4--they must always be "made" in that order !
Ron Rich

I dont own ALL your guides Ron I have the microlog guide and the LS-3 service manual, thats it.

The rollers are what I thought Rob was referring to, but I dont understand how uneven rollers affects a 'wobble' sound when the record is playing. At that point the rollers are stationary..does it affect alignment of the record when it's loaded, thereby loading it off-center, or something?