Bought my first Jukebox! Seeburg SS160.

Ron and Ron,

Scary how spot on your guys are! When I reinstalled the clutch assembly, I had the detent on the wrong side of the switch. Corrected it and SUCCESS! Sweet music!

You guys may not hear this enough, so thank you. I never would have been able to diagnose and solve both problems without you.

Now its time to start the rest of the refurbishing. Stage two!

The next two things I'll tackle:

1. RPM rotating sleeve wasn't working. I noticed the motor molex power plug was disconnected. I reconnected it to a loud motor hum. I'm assuming the motor is seized. Possible to rebuild or should I look at replacement?

2. The two small selection indicator lights that scan above with the mech, are out. Should I just be hunting for a fuse or is this a common problem?

Thx,

Jack

Jack, the selection indicator lamps are #19.
As far as I remember, the fuse protects the pop meter coil. If that is blown I suggest measuring the coil impedance and check it for shorts. At the very least, replace the fuse.

The display motor is an area I've not dealt with but, in general, if a motor is stalled but hums that is a good sign. Small motors like that will eventually burn out if left in stalled condition, so it probably is just suffering from congealed grease after sitting for many years.


If it is possible to open it that would allow the application of new light oil to get it started. If ti can't easily be opened I've often been able to carefully drill a small hole somewhere in the gearbox (approx 1/8th ") and insert the hose from a typical oiler to put a fair amount of light oil in there and then -carefully heat it up with a heat gun on --low-- or a hair blower. Try to get the shaft going while warm but don't force it. I've used this on Consolette motors and a lot of old clock and animation motors.
If external; gears are cracked obviously that will mean replacement.

Rob

Hi Jack,
Rob is correct--on that model mechanism, a 1/2 amp fuse was added to the selection now playing lamps, and the popularity meter coil. This is NOT shown on the mechanism schematic (as I think is noted it "errors---" above). The most often cause of this fuse "blowing" is incorrect adjustment of the pop meter actuating contacts on the mechanism. The somewhat later model phono's, eliminated the fusing for the lamps, as they are "resistor protected". but retained t for the pop meter coil--I have seen many mechs modified in this manor.
On that motor--1. That plug is not a "Molex" brand plug, nor is any other plug in that model. All "nylon type" that were used were A-MP ( now TEC), brand, Mate -N-Lock brand, plugs. The motor's seem to last for a long time, but they do freeze up after awhile, especially if operated "un-balanced" !--see the I and O manual. I have never attempted to re-lube that type motor ?? (I think, I have a few NOS motors left--PM me if you wish to purchase one) Ron Rich

Hi Ron,

Sorry, I had an idea "molex" was the wrong word but for lack of a better...

So far, easy fixes. Selector lights were just burnt out. The motor on the sleeve was seized. Disassembled and sprayed contact cleaner in the gaps near the seized shaft and it released, turning now.

I'll be ordering the full manual set so I can figure out everything else; pricing units setting, etc. but I am curious about one button. It's located on the right side under the main display panel. It doesn't make contact with the hinge closed (it looks like it's supposed to but I'm not sure) and with the panel in the up position, pressing the button doesn't seem to have any effect on anything. See the attached photos.

What's it for?

Jack

Jack, that switch controlled a light in the mech compartment to aid servicing. It should be opened by closing the top door...just like a refrigerator light.
Look around there should be a couple of sockets connected to it. 'Been a long time since I've seen that switch.

Rob

Rob, Jack,
Rob is correct--that switch turns on two (#51 -I think ?) lamps that are over the pop meter so that the person changing records can view it--But, due to the defect in the lids, causing it not to close fully, they usually burn out, and no one replaces them, as you can easily snap off the "selection now playing indicator", and view the pop meter-- Ron Rich

That answers the question I had in the back of my mind about those two lights above the pop meter. I couldn't figure out how they were switched. That was on the list of "things to do"...

How sensitive are these units to cold? Since I recapped the auto-speed unit, it works but needs about 10 - 15 mins of VERY slow playing until it seems to "warms up". Doesn't matter whether its playing a 45 or a 33 1/3. It's in my garage in Canada and the average temp in there right now is about 48F to 53F. I've read they like 65F and above. Still an auto-speed issue or just temp?

Also, while I was exploring the bottom cabinet, I noticed that the reset button (I'm assuming) above the power toggle is not hooked up to anything inside the cabinet. Just two wires hanging there. What are they supposed to be connect to? Somewhere on the amp (it's near that section) or somewhere else?

Cheers!

Hi Jack,
The slow motor-- there has bee a "ton" written on this--including what I rit in my Seeburg Mechanism guide--it's basically a "dirty motor/drive train" that will most likely need to be cleaned, and PROPERLY, oiled.
The two wires connect that optional slide switch on the outside rear of the phono. They connect to the "black" and "white" terminals on the amp, near the volume control, IF, you want that slide switch to function as a record reject switch. Ron Rich

Hi Ron,

I followed your instructions in your manual for cleaning the motor, did the trick! It wasn't too bad for build-up but it made a difference. The coupler was a little loose also. The top two Allen key screws could have been a little tighter, they're good now.

I'm missing rubber bumper underneath the motor. I'll have to get one of those.

I also re-aligned the service light switch on the right side of the jukebox and replaced the two small bulbs (#53) over the pop meter. They work! The record selector light now work on the "A" side. The fuse was fine but the upper light bulb was burnt out, switched them and the top on works. I'm assuming replacing the lower one will do the get it going.

Hooked up the two wires from the reset button on the back of the unit to the black and white screws on the amp, resets when pressed.

Now I have to figure out the pricing unit. I want to set it back to the original 10 cent per play, 3 for a quarter and 33 1/3 half dollar per side. I have no idea but the slug rejecter looks original, everything else has been so far. Does anything have to be done to it to accent dimes or do these units to that automatically? It's set for 2 plays for a quarter right now so I know it's not set to its original pay setting.

Thanks!

Jack

Hi jack,
The two wires connected to that switch do not make it "re-set"--it makes it "reject" the record now playing--
Service manual contains price setting info--who knows what, if anything has been done to the coin acceptor ?
Ron Rich

Hi Ron,

Sorry, yes "reject" not "reset" works well.

I have another issue. After I reassembled the motor, the mech will play the first selection then not play the next selection. It just starts grabbing every 8 or 9 records in a row. I have to continually reject until it does one full cycle to get it to rest. I haven't had the time to delve into it yet.

Your mech guide doesn't seem to address this problem but I'll be re-reading it this weekend. Any thoughts on what I may have done wrong. I didn't have this problem previously...

Jack

Hi Jack,
Yes, You are correct--that is not in the guide as it is a "selection system problem", which was covered in the Seeburg trouble shooting guide.
That is generally a poor ground on the Tormat RCA plug on the SCC. Check that the shield, AND, one wire are firmly attached to the OUTside of the plug--clean the female jack with crocus cloth, and squeeze the male plug prongs slightly so they are tighter. Also, check the ground pin in the mechanism plug. That should "fizzit"-- Ron Rich

While I basically agree with Ron's diagnosis. I also suggest a quick check of the 150vDC write-in source.

This is a zener-shunt configuration. If the zener (CR3105) opens you will get too much W-I current and that will cause all of a letter and all of a number to flip.

Rob

Hi Rob,
I never thought about that--I have replaced many 150 VZD's--but it seems that they must have shorted out, rather then open, as I found no 150 vdc on the test point-- There is a note on all SCC schematics, specifying the correct "range" for that "150 voltage", as it is "adjustable"--- this must be maintained. Ron Rich

Ron, yeah, shorting is the most likely failure mode for those diodes, but I have seen opens as well in other circuits. It's a long shot here but worth a few seconds to test.

Rob