G1 refers to the "control" grid, which must always be negative with respect to cathode. In this case, it's on pin 3 of the 6Sk7. G2 is the "screen" grid on pin 6. G3 would be the "suppressor" grid.
In these simple amp designs that is correct. The 6SK7 (later replaced by a 6BJ6 or 6BA6) are called 'remote cutoff pentodes. They are designed for use in I-F frequency amplifiers and feature a wide operating curve. That is useful here where it is desired to have a smooth response to the DC control voltage in the AGC circuit. In 1993 I bought some "6SK7" tubes from ICC. They were obviously relabeled of some other types and their sharp curve was totally unusable in an AGC circuit.
Pin 2 on the chassis female, which I'll jump to ground, is pin 2 of the speaker plug's socket. Pins 1, 3 & 4 here are also on the socket.
J3 is the two prong speaker plug inside the cabinet.
I worded my previous response clumsily. I conflated two different points. the jump to enable B+ is on J2 @ pin 2 to ground.
on the mute-squelch, by removing the grounding connection, you mean physically disconnecting it. in terms of the J3, one can unground it just by unplugging it.
Correct, however, if you are working on the amp away from the mech a clip-lead jumper is necessary. Connected, the signal will control the AGC. with ground removed, the squelch will build up and lower the gain.
by "drive," you mean to power the amp with an input signal and speakers connected.
"Drive" here refers only to the signal input, but a load must also be connected to the power amp speaker terminals to avoid an inductive 'kickback" from the output transformer that might damage it, or the output tubes.
Perhaps my terminology was incorrect, because I've seen "Jones plug" in reference to a broad range of connections. I was thinking of a cable that would allow me to connect the amp to the receiver in order to power it on the bench, basically a four-prong extension cord. As it is, I'm sliding the whole thing in and out of WSR in the door each time.
How many of these things are you going to work-on? Years ago I built a test power supply for those old amps using a Jones plug and 6 volt 4 amp transformer.
If you are only going to work on the one you have now, you could just take the selection receiver out, jump the Play Control Relay contacts in the stepper box (to light the 5U4) and mate the two chassis on a table or bench.
I don't have any kind of signal generator to use in lieu of connecting the rca plug from the mech. is there a simple, lo-tech / lo cost signal generator available for this purpose? again, I'm looking to untether the bench and cabinet.
It is a magnetic phono input so a turntable equipped w/magnetic cart can be used. It won't be as loud as the redhead but it will work. You can plug a CD player or tuner, IPOD etc. But they must have a level control to avoid overloading the input and the sound will be way too bassy.
On the schematic, around the first section of the 12AX7 there are a number of circled AC readings-- 0.8, 17, 110, plus 0.24 in a box. The 0.8 seems to be for pin 2 and the 17 for pin 1. The 110 I'm not so sure about and I don't know what to make of the .24 in its rectangle.
The encircled 110 is an error on the MRA-5 print. That is a DC plate voltage and should in the open. I have no idea what the boxed number is about. All the pertinent voltages are accounted for there.
Rob