Seeburg M100C

Ron Rich wrote:Stan,
Get thee to your Radio Shack--before it's closed !! --Oh,too late ?? sorry 'bout that--
Ron Rich

Not so fast. Radio Shack aka: The undead still has a few outposts:
http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... rt=2&o=162
http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... rt=2&o=163

These do still have -a nominal amount of parts (as for Seeburg...) but they are mostly Sprint stores.

Rob-NYC the City Of The Undead.

Rob,
I can't find any, OPEN, here--SPRINT stores are few and far between also, here--
Ron Rich

OK, I have looked at these contact washers (Tabs) with my jewelers magnifying glass and do not see or feel any difference of the top or bottom. I do not understand why the author of the Facebook thing would state this. Even looking at his picture i see no difference.
Stan Ski

Hi Stan,
Don't know what to say--??
Out of the (probably ""hundreds of") thousands of them I have seen, I have never had any problem determining which side was which ??
Hold one in one hand--rub the top of the washer with your other hand--you should feel a rougher edge when rubbing one side, vs. the other.
Ron Rich

As I recall there is a similar issue with orientation of the pins.
Ron addressed this is issue in this post
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7051 (around mid post)
where the surface with the smooth/rounded EDGE of the pin is to face the solenoid.

Somewhere else (maybe not on Phonoland) I recall a discussion that the smooth edge (vs sharper edge) is created by the stamping process where the die, as it strikes the metal sheet (which the pin is made from), creates a rounded edge. The trailing edge remains sharper.

- Like when a cookie is made with a cookie cutter.

This is applicable to the tab orientation i.e. the surface with the rounded edge faces down.

Well i have been assembling this pin bank. This has to be one of the most fun projects i have ever got my self involved in. It is a lot more fun then pulling my own teeth. What a frigging nightmare. I tried all kind of different ways to hold the pins in place. Could not find anything better then the business card thing. I did find that a few drops of super glue holds the contact washer on the pin real nice. In fact the super glue holds everything together real good. Ron, Are you screaming at me ? Just kidding about the super glue. As far as the good and bad sides of the pins that was not a problem (easy to see). The contact washers were still a problem. Had the wife and my youngest daughter look at them and they could only see a difference in some of them . Maybe these washers spent more time in the tumbler. This is how they remove sharp edges from metal stampings. Hopefully this pin bank will be done someday this week.
Now i have to ask. Does anyone have any idea how this this was put together on the assembly line?
Stan Ski

Stan,
I once saw a friend use a fairly strong magnet to hold all the pins in place. I think he had one on each side. I was always concerned it might leave some residual magnetism behind so I've always been chicken (remember I was the one who cleaned all the contacts with steel wool on my first pinbank). That did not work out too well! Now I use a small piece of wood, kind of like the business card trick. I think the wood piece was made for holding screen in the old wooden screen doors. I have about 20' of it in the garage for a reason I cannot remember. Since I worked in the sewage business for many years secretary used to say I had SGBD (sewer gas brain damage). She was probably right.
David (Geritol Ghetto)

Got the pin bank all done. Checked all the pins for movement and they all move like butter on glass. Yesterday i reinstalled it. Now it will not do anything. Put a dime in and the selection light comes on but push any buttons and the carriage does not move . Did find a bad 2 amp fuse . Replaced that and no difference and it did not burn out again. . Have been doing a lot of back tracking but have not found anything stupid that i did. Pulled the cover off the pin bank and everything there looks fine. The reason i decided to clean the pin bank was mainly because a couple of the G selections would not work and after doing some searching it seemed like a good place to start. I did find out that if i reach under the pin bank and move one of the pins it will go to that selection and play the record through its complete cycle. I am missing something here so does anyone have any idea of what the heck is going on?
Stan Ski

Stan,
If you have replaced the 2 amp fuse in the fuse clip,you have erred--that fuse MUST NOT be larger then 1.6--1.5 is better, or you CAN burn out selection coils ! The reason they "blow" is "sluggishness" in the CCU--Either the "W" contacts, or the timing relay contacts not making well-soon enough, or the drive train for the rotary switch is freezing up. (When pulled by hand, the coil plunger MUST "snap " back ! ), I have also seen the core stop brass broken/missing. If that fuse is good, and the fuse clip is clean, and tight, see if the group relay is energizing --after you check the CCU--also, re-seat both Cinch-Jones Plugs-- RonRich

Going back to page 3 i had a question about the wiring for the 4 pin socket on the CCU and still do. Can someone tell me where the wire from socket 3 ( opposite socket 1) is connected to. The male part of the socket is numbered 1 to 4 in a CW rotation from the bottom. I have looked at the schematic but something is not making sense to me.
For an update i did get it to work today but still have problems. I decided to pull the push button assembly out and give it a good Deoxit cleaning. Check out what i found. Wonder if the lack of a ground caused the one red wire to get hot and is a source of other problems
Stan Ski

Hi Stan,
I do not have a C manual--the 4 pin, coin plug, is self explanatory --One each wire goes to/from, a coin switch, to a coin coil. The 4th wire is "common"--just observe the switches. Also, near he socket, you should see a "faded" green dot. This "dot" aligns with either the (green-faded) dot on the plug, or on later plugs, the "extrusion", on the round section.
As for the ground--yep--I would think that it should be attached ----
If the wire(s) to the solenoid look burned, probably some one has changed it. These are KNOWN for catching fire, which is why I sell the ( GOOD !) free-play/fire prevention kits. Ron Rich

Did a little more work on it today. I used the common wire (25 volt) on the socket and found that if i connect to the top of the credit switch it would activate the 25 cent solenoid. This is where i had it jumped with a test lead. Moving the jumper around would break and break the circuit ! Talk about driving you nuts. So i soldered the wire in and now all is working. 1 play Nickle 2 plays a dime and etc. Even the push button are working correctly. It would stay on the first letter you punched in till it was done with the selection. Funny how a ground can help things work. I am slowly making progress and even learning new words !!!!
Stan

Hi Stan,
You will learn new (swear) words if you leave that solenoid energized to long ! That solenoid is an intermittent duty model, and depending on how long, how often, it was energized for an amount of time, in the past, it is prone to melting, within in five minutes of being energized. Ron Rich

I think we might be having a lack of communication. Please look at the picture on page 3. The picture shows a small brown wire that got disconnected. I knew it was from socket 3 of the 4 pin connector ( 25 Cent red wire ) To be sure i was connecting it to the correct place i used the common ( black pin 4 ) wire that has 25 volts and touched each of the
points under the socket. When i touched pin 1 (green wire ) it operated the 5 cent solenoid , When i touched pin 2 ( yellow wire ) it operated the 10 cent solenoid . When i touched it to the top terminal on the credit switch it operated the 25 cent solenoid. So this is where i connected the brown wire to as it is the one that operates the 25 cent solenoid. So that solenoid only pops up when you insert 25 cent and trips the credit unit. That was yesterday. Got up today figuring i could start cleaning the contacts and lubricating the mechanism. Not going to happen. Figured i would try it one more time. Back to it not doing much of anything. It does turn on and the push button selector works but that is about it. Something is really screwy here. Maybe me?? Thinking it has to have a bad electrical connection somewhere. Sure hope i am explaining thing well enough
Stan

Hi Stan,
Yep--we'z having some type o failure to communicate !
What's "not happening" ? Is the rotary switch failing to be energized --on all coins ?
What's "page 3"??
Ron Rich