I have a record changer that I want to test that doesn't have the correct socket. I have spotted the two leads that go to the tuner's wiring harness.
Are these the correct leads to short to make the amp stay on?
by jefferyb304 » Sat Aug 30, 2008 6:37 am
by Record-changer » Sun Aug 31, 2008 2:17 am
by jefferyb304 » Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:05 am
Record-changer wrote:There should be THREE power leads from the record changer to the amp, plus two shielded cables for the audio signal.
The three power leads should go to the same rectangular plug on the power supply of the amp. They control both the amp power and the phono power. The two shielded audio cables should go to the tuner/preamp section.
The power shuts off with the record changer in the phono position. There is another control used to turn on the radio. Look for the following possibilities:
- The volume or a tone control is turned all the way left to turn off the set in the radio position.
- The volume control knob lifts up to turn on the power.
- The selector is supposed to turn on the radio in a radio position, but the switch is broken.
Note that shorting the hot power lead to the amp switch lead will also cause the phono motor to run all the time.
by Record-changer » Fri Sep 05, 2008 5:47 pm
by jefferyb304 » Sat Sep 06, 2008 8:00 am
Record-changer wrote:OK. Now it makes more sense.
The third wire is on the bottom of the changer. There is a Molex connector on the bottom of the plinth with three connections. If you have the power cord, only two of those connections are used. The third (unused) position is for the amp switch.
Buy another Molex connector that fits that socket. You will also need the crimp tool to attach the pins to wires.
If there is no Molex connector, you need to tap into the wire that runs from the switch to the motor to find the third connection. Be sure your connection is insulated.
Note the existing wires that are part of the changer to identify the pins:
- One pin or wire goes to just the switch. This is the hot wire.
- One pin or wire goes to just the motor. This is the neutral wire.
- One pin or wire goes to both the motor and the switch. This is the amp control wire.
DO NOT mix up the hot and neutral wires, or you will have a short circuit that can cause damage.
Do you have the cable that went to the amp? If so:
- Black is hot
- Red is neutral
- Yellow is amp control
If you do not have the cable, then you have to either find a connector that fits the amp socket, or wire around the socket. If you wire around the socket, use a drilled hole and a grommet to pass the wires out of the amp. Be sure the drill will not damage other parts.
To identify the wires on the connector, you have to look under the chassis:
- The pin that goes to both the power cord (maybe though a fuse) and to the power switch is hot.
- The pin that goes to the power cord and the power transformer is neutral.
- The pin that goes to just the power switch or the selector control power switch is amp control.
The amp control pin is usually in the middle on both connectors.
Be sure to use wire rated for use with 120 volt power.
Do NOT use trial and error to find the correct connections, or you will cause a short circuit, blow the house fuse, and damage the switches.
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