Seeburg M100C - Updated Photos - Deal Made!

Hi all,

It seems I am fated not to pick up a project (will not bore everyone with details), however now a seller quite close has a Seeburg M100C. Given this is not a project, and way more than probably I was going to spend, I'd love to get ideas on a fair price.

I have included some photos, plus here are the details I know so far:

1. It works (I have a quick video of it playing, not sure I can load that here?) - although sounds like it is a little temperamental as seller said they were going to use a repair man but its now working. (The repair man put me on to it - he fixed my 1st pinball)

2. Repair man believes amp has been partly rebuilt - I assume I can check that when I view to see if there are old capacitors?

3. Repair man said he believes it has Pickering 340-D - does that add value? (in other words, I have no idea what this means )

I am going to view this week - from the photos it looks in very good condition cosmetically.

So, thoughts on fair price? And what thing should I ask/looks at/take photos?

Many thanks - I'm getting closer to owning my 1st one..its just a matter of time (and money, and a seller not messing me around )

Danny

Hi Max,
IMHO, this unit has been vastly re-furbished. Obvious, non correct color items, have been used--It's your decision If you like the colors/plating/painting, and chrome. As for the 345-03D--yep--it's there--how good the non-available needles are (repops are available, but, IMHO, they do not match the OEM's) , is a question, as is the "partly rebuilt" amplifier ( which model ?, by the way). Mechanically/electrically, I don't have enough info to access the value, but I see them going on ePay for between $3500, and $6500
Ron Rich

Thanks, Ron

Being new to this, I did not realize some things are not per original spec - can you clarify for me what's been changed?
Also, when I view it tomorrow, are there any simple checks I can perform that can provide more info on the mechanics/theatricals?
Finally, I read everywhere to see if the capacitors have been replaced, but are they viewable without unscrewing things (given its in someone's house)

Many thanks again, Ron - anyone else have any thoughts on this box, value, etc?

"MAx" the only way to inspect the amp and receiver is to open the backdoor and remove two or three butterfly nuts thta hold the rear plate. This takes only a second and frankly, if I am paying for a machine that is at least partially restored and priced so, I expect the right to look it over.

If all or most caps have been replaced the amp will frequently have orange, yellow or brown capacitors.

It will look something like this:
http://jukeboxwiz.com/tag/seeburg/ -though yours being mono will have fewer parts.


Since the seller claims that it is partially working (whatever that means) it should be safe enough to plug it in and see what does, or doesn't work.

If the latchbar solenoid pull in and the mech allow you to make a selection and then starts scanning, that means the main power tran is probably OK. note that the amp tubes heaters are also supplied from that main tran so check that they light (except for the 5U4 -that lights when a session begins). Ideally, there should be sound, but don't expect much. the st probably have not been changed since that cart was new in the early-mid nineties.

These old things are fairly simple machines, but burned out coils in the memory unit are a pain to replace.

If you buy and take it with you. be sure to hand tighten the four mech bolts and strap the back door closed but be careful not to stress the pilasters. If at all possible transport it upright. Be sure the dome glass is locked and tape it shut to be sure. tape the florescent tube in it's socket. I'm not sure what to do with the pilaster lights. Coil the power cord in the cabinet.

Ron will probably have more info
.
That machine, while not all original, looks very good. having the cabinet work already done is a big help if you don't want a long process. If you can get it for $2000 or less -go for it!

Rob

Hey Rob,
IMHO, the worst thing that can be done to a Seeburg, is to "tighten down" the 3 (or 4, on later mechs) suspension bolts ! If one does so, the carriage MUST be properly tied down, with the shims in place (this varies as to how it's done, by model) ! Running those bolts all the way down without "shimming" places undue stress on the frame, and springs. Also if the carriage is not in the proper (re-enforced) spot, it can cause the frame to warp, if the phono is set down on it's back.
If one wishes to transport a phono without properly bolting it down, I advise that the "shipping bolts" be left in the "operating position" ( all the way up till they jam), the carriage be parked over the re-enforced end, and the phono be kept up-right at ALL TIMES --- Ron Rich

Rob and Ron, super helpful info - thank you.

Rob - I'll remove rear plate and check the amp. Plus there is a small video of it working here (that's all seller sent until I visit) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RvYdEcUz0E so that's a step in the right direction.

Ron - If I purchase this, I think I will have to transport on its back as that's the only way it will go in my car. I will have to get more details on how to move this model - if and when I purchase. I'm not planning to purchase and move tomorrow, just view and then decide.

Ron/Rob, can you expand on what's not original from what you have seen..I don't mind if someone has, say, used a darker veneer, but would be interested in anything that in later life may devalue the machine.

Many thanks again!!

Danny

Hi Max,
I am not sure if he has "veneered" that cabinet, or just stripped it down to "wood" and re-stained it ? Colors are definitely different from original--Red coin, and info windows, are repros--I prefer the original, more maroon color, type. I don't recall what they were originally, but I think the color (red) "selection indicating" numbers were different on a C ? Check out the late, "Tony Miller's" web site (listed above), for an early artists conception of that model. Ron Rich

Welcome to the board 4 max and to the world of jukeboxes. If you google (always jukin') they have a very reasonalbly priced buying guide that explains how they arrive at their 5 prices for each juke they list. It is a gudie that can help you determine a fair price and worth the small investment. For the Seeburg C they show the range $250.00 to $5,950.00. Hope you enjouy your new toy and I would suggest you may want to find someway to haul it upright instead of laying it down in your car, even it it invovles renting a truck or trailer to protect your investment, These are very heavy and have you thought it through how you are going to lift it into and out of your car?

Best
Darrell

Regarding moving the 355lb M100C, an appliance (stove, fridge etc) mover may well be worth the cost. They may even place it into your home/basement.
I think moving it in a car would be a challenge. I have a Toyota Highlander and my "C" wouldn't fit even with an army of strong movers.

I moved my "C" down a flight of basement stairs by removing all the components, amp, receiver, speaker, mechanism etc and just had my boys move the empty cabinet. Sounds like a lot of work but it was coming apart for restoration anyway.

Good luck!!
It looks like a great machine!

Cutter,
The model C is an easy one to remove all of the parts on-the hardest part is removing the six screws that hold in the mirrors ! ( especially if some "jackass" has stripped the heads ) The rest will come out in less then 5 minutes--
Hints--When removing the 12 pin mechanism plug, check that the index pin has not broken off , before you plug it back in, or damage may occur !! Also, be sure all dome/door locks are locked. Ron Rich

So true Ron. The "C" has been my easiest to disassemble and move in pieces. The hardest...the Wurlitzer 1100. The mechanism still took two of the boys to carry downstairs.

Now the problem is...if they ever have to be moved out.... I guess that's where the appliance mover would help.
Jukes are so much tougher to move than pins.

Thanks to everyone for their useful insight.

I will view tomorrow, check out the amp, take some photos and report back. If I get to the right price - I think around $2k as per Rob, then I think I"m in business.

At which point I'll come back for step by step moving instructions as you all have me scared witless now about how to move it! If we get to that stage I'll start a separate thread.

Thanks again.

"Max" I would not get scared about moving these machines. Of all the jukes I've bought, sold or delivered to my locations, over 90% traveled on their backs. that includes Wurlitzer, Seeburg and AMI/Rowe, some of which traveled hundreds of miles to get to me.

The common sense steps I outlined were all I did, or could do under the circumstances. None suffered any damage due to the trip. An SUV or station wagon (do they still exist?) is the absolute minimum for transport. A van in better.

Ironically, the only machine I bought that arrived damaged was an AMI I-200 where the crown glass was broken by the mover walking across the tops of machines in his semi. It was upright.

I do suggest adding a sheet of either newspaper or paper towel between the mech and record magazine. In the remote chance that the machine has been oiled in the last ten years, this will prevent the oil from fouling the record magazine.

Good luck,

Rob

Hi All,
IMHO, 90 % of them do make it however they are transported--however a full 10 % of the phonos I have seen show SOME damage due to improper transportation. A small % of them have damage that is fatal, or just not practical to repair. Others have hidden damage(s) that do not show up for a long time-- My thinking is --I do not want to "take the chance"--It is not worth it for me to have to replace a major part on a customers machine, due to my carelessness--It only takes a few minutes to do it right the first time !! Ron Rich

I'm following this post as I'm working on my Seeburg M100C that was recently passed down to me. I've been researching about it more than anything and making some minor repairs along the way. Whats the story with the345-03D's? I've been looking for the best place for new needles as I think I might need one of my two replaced, but i'm not sure which type I have.

BTW, I moved my downstairs by taking out the components. It's fairly easy in this jukebox. Just take pictures incase you forget how something went back, although its not hard to figure out.