Seeburg C Trip Switch Pressure

Rob

Any chance you could post that video again? I have a Seeburg 100G that has a skating problem on the A side of the record. Adjusting the tone arm sprins does not resolve the problem.

Best
Darrell

Darrell, funny you would ask for this file, I just had a request via PM two days ago.

http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=ge ... 62d6043ca7

Is the arm boosting-in at the beginning? The trip can cause this to happen. Gross imbalance of the arm is another. Finally, if all else is correct, I suggest eliminating the damping of the arm by slightly backing out the setscrew that holds the damping cylinder just enough to free the arm.

Ron and I disagree on this issue, but I've found that arm performance improves without this (my opinion) pointless feature.

Rob

Hi All,
The switch in Rob's vid is working perfectly--but, as he stated, he and I still disagree about the need for damping-
I find I need to replace the spring if I can't make the switch operate as shown--Also, I have never been able to make it perfect, with "aftermarket" supplied switches--Seeburg ordered "specials" for use here ! Ron Rich

Just wanted to say thanks for reposting that video. I had this problem, had found this thread but the vid was no longer working and it was pretty old. Thus, I just started a thread on this issue when I realized this thread been revived miraculously. Watching the video has resolved my problem!

Rob

Thank you for reposting video. I have made the adjustments from the manual and I believe it is working like your video reveals it should look like. Still skating.

What do you mean by " boosting", I do not understand how that term applies to the needle skating?

If new tone are sprinsgs are put in, should the tone arm adjustments be reduced to their least amount of tension position?

Best
Darrell

Darrell, before bothering with replacement springs I suggest the following:

1) Set spring pressure at lowest point. Flip the ears down if the eyelets are on top.

2) Eliminate the damping by loosening the locknut on the cylinder and backing the setscrew out about ¼ turn. make sure to re-tighten the locknut (not too tight).

3) Check to be sure that the arm is balanced.

4) Check that the trip switch is not actually "boosting" the arm by slightly following the rectangular opening. Once it is reset it should not move again till the pulled up as the arm nears trip-off.

On arms that I cut down the counterweights to use the 345-03D cart I also used the later springs that were designed for the SS160-up. These have to be slightly stretched to bring them down to 2g in those arms and the fixed hook-eyelets closed so that the long hook at the end of the spring will slide through. I do all of that to completely eliminate all loading of opposite side springs.

If 1-4 are OK you should be good-to-go.

Rob

Hi

Still skating, how do you check to make sure the tone arm is "balanced" and if it is out of balance how is it corrected?

Best
Darrell

Hi Darrell,

I started this thread with the same problems as you are experiencing.

I looked very closely at the video from Rob and found that my trip lever was my first issue (it was working backwards). I was not able to balance the tone arm until I fixed this.

Once I understood that, I followed pages 2162, 2163 and 2164 of my manual and balanced the tone arm. I replaced the springs with new 'weaker' ones.

I also added the 345-03D cart so I added a small weight to it's top. I used a small screw stuck on the very top of the cartridge with 'Blu-tack'.

I'm not sure if you have this in The States, but it is a plastic moldable sticky material .

This stopped all skating and my juke now works great.

Stick with it and you will find the answer.

Good luck.

Gordo....

ds100h wrote:Hi

Stll skating, how do you check to make sure the tone arm is "balanced" and if it is out of balance how is it corrected? Best Darrell

Simplest way to test for balance is to select a slot with no record and turn power off when the arm sets down. Then lift the end of the cart and allow it to fall back toward where a record would be. Lift and release several times. If it shows bias, adjust the balance by turning the counterweight under the arm assembly. Go a little at a time and repeat the test several time with each adjustment.

Rob

Rob

The tone arm has a bias towards the center of the record. Starting, the trip lever is just up to the reset plate, after I release the tone arm there is a gap of about 1/8 of an inch between the trip lever and the reset plate.

I am having dificulty determining what you mean by "counterweight under the tone arm assembly". On page 2163 of the manual at the bottom of the page it refers to "Roller Type" and "Sliding Weight Type". I do not see either in the pictures I am attaching for your review. Sorry about the blur, if there is sometype of adjustment placed as shown on page 2163 of the manual, how would you get to the adjustment under the tone arm?

The only possible adjustment I seem to find would be to put a screwdriver through the left hole in the black plate with a slot that accesses a scew that puts pressure on the tone arm. If this is not the adjustment you are referring to then I need to try to figure out where this "counterweight is????

Best
Darrell

Darrell,
The Service Manual has a procedure for this--shows the counter weight and tells you how to adjust it--One thing it does NOT say--pivot points must be oiled first ! Do you have a gram gauge ?
Ron Rich

Darrell, here is a pic of the counterweights: http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/Rob-N ... ort=2&o=58

this is under the tonearm assembly and as you can see, both weights have been cut down. In this case it was to balance the 345-03D cart. Your machine will still have the adjustable weight on the left rounded.

Also, what is with that tonearm spring? That is not going to help things.

Rob

Darrell,
Ah, yes--that "tone arm spring--?? I was going to comment on that yesterday, but my computer INSISTED on "scanning"--
Seeburg used different type/strength/length springs on the tonearms, prior to 1967 ( and three different types after 1967), depending on which cartridge was supplied with which model.
The "correct" spring that should be used when using a 345-03x type cartridge is the one supplied with the model R, and up thru the rest of the mono models. If using the OEM needles (either green, or tan) the pressure should be set between 4.5 and 5.5 grams, using a gauge (I prefer to be on the lower side--no higher then 5 gm).
One "other point"--I often see the spring supports "badly bent" on these models. Some "adjustment"of them is possible to achieve the proper pressure, but be careful, as they will snap off ! Ron Rich

Ron & Rob

As to the spring, I have replacement springs from A-1 jukebox, I just have not put them on, I will use a gram gauge when I do put them on. When the "A" side (and only side that has a problem) is playing if I apply very light pressure on the tone am to move it against the record I get better sound and the skating stops, so I would guess that the spring was stretched in an attempt to apply more pressure on the tone arm?

I have reviewed page 2163 of the manual (several times) and that is where my problem is and why I posted the pictures, as I cannot locate a "Roller Type" counter weight to adjust by turning or the "scew" for the "Sliding Weight Type" adjustment, picture shows this screw on bottom of counter weight but does not explain how you are supposed to gain access to it. Looking at Rob's picture I see a screw on the counter weight, so I take it I have to remove the tone arm assembly to get at that adjusment screw? For some reason it seems to me that it should be easier than complete removal of the tone arm assembly to make this adjustment!

Is this the adjustment?

The only possible adjustment I seem to find would be to put a screwdriver through the left hole in the black plate with a slot that accesses a scew that puts pressure on the tone arm.

Best
Darrell

Hi Darrell,
NO--the adjustment is just what's shown on that page ("the screw" is used only to put the correct tension on the wheel--should NOT be messed with, in any way!)--You can get another view of it on the parts page--look UNDER item one (lower left side of drawing), where it's partly shown, and the in the "break-down" above as items # 78/79.
One other "factor" sounds as if it's in play here--stiff tone arm wire. As a "quick check", play a record, stick your hand under the cradle, catch the wire at the point it just before it starts to curve upward, and move it, lightly, in the in/out direction. If the pressure is correct, this should NOT affect the needle. If it does, you need to replace the tone arm wire, as it has become too stiff. Ron Rich