Wurlitzer 2810 selection buttons not working

Hello Everyone,
I am asking for some help. i fixed the amp on my 2810 and got it working the 2810 started working fine and then as i was testing the selection buttons 6-0 were not working for any letter but 1-5 were working so i looked for a wire short and cleaned all the selector and buttons. tried the 2810 again and the buttons 6-0 did not work. Then all of a sudden the arm that picks up records and returns them to the carriage stayed up and when it came to the end of the record it did not release and return the record the tone arm just stayed at the end and turning. It did not activate the switch to return the record to the carriage. I finally was able to release the record and the arm but now the selection buttons will engage and release but it will not select a record. I read the manual a few more times but honestly as a newbie its all foreign to me, I was wondering if someone knew where to start or check and let me know. Also it did blow a 8/10 amp slow blo fuse on the bottom of mech. that i replaced but the mech will work and pick up a record if you manually hit the switch on the mech but it will not return record after its over. Or it will also not select the letter or number when you key it in on the selector, if i put in a credit it will disengage the buttons when you hit the number but it will not start the mech. Sorry so long just trying to get all the info in to what happened. thanks for all your help its appreciated.
Wayne

Wayne, I had one of these in 1987 to 88 and it had a similar problem. During disassembly for washing I found a partially burnt out driver solenoid which had overheated at some point and the bobbin had swollen and was causing the plunger to get stuck at various points instead of allowing it to return to rest position. It also had shorted turns -the previous owner's solution for which was a larger fuse. Typical.

The driver solenoid is the large coil inside the memory unit (pin bank). I replaced it with one from a playrak. Had the same failure on a 3110.

If you removed any plugs during your work on the unit --make sure they are now in the correct sockets--

I suggest joining the Yahoo Wurlitzer group : http://dir.groups.yahoo.com/group/wurlitzer/ -They'll likely have more information.

Rob/NYC

Rob,
Do I gotta teach you youngins EVERYTHING ?
"---a larger fuse. Typical." That's what you do when you have a "pesty circuit" that only blows the fuse, once in awhile! How else are you gonna find the problem ?
Just keep on replacing fuses with the correct ( or smaller) size ? "Fuses" get expensive ! One quick hint here--when you run out of larger fuses, you can take the old burnt out fuse, and re-rejuvenate it by wrapping aluminum foil around it before placing in back in it's holder--this has worked every time, I have seen it done! There are also a couple of other ways I have seen this problem solved. One is to solder(or at least wrap) a jumper from post to post on the fuse holder--And you can cut a round piece of brass to the same size as a fuse, and insert it in place of the fuse (All kidding aside, AMi did exactly this, on one power supply. Apparently they modified the circuit, after they had constructed a number of these units, so they inserted the brass, rubbed off the fuse size markings, cut and added an inline fuse holder in another area---don't recall which model that was done on--) Ron Rich

You omitted this rapid t-shoot hint from the Gepetto Mook Handbook.:
"In elusive nuisance fuse blowing situations a Phillips screwdriver inserted into the fuse holder (in place of fuse) is a great way to speed up finding the problem. Insert screwdriver- apply power- follow smoke trail."

Seriously, I've seen people work this way.

Rob-NYC

Rob,
So have I--I did omit that on purpose--did not want to give anyone "ideas"--
Ron Rich

Thanks Ron-NYC
I will check the driver and also recheck plugs someone else told me to recheck the plugs also because they had one where center of plugs had broken and the pin/ plug still fit any way without that center piece. Also Ron-NYC I will look to joining that Wurlitzer group you suggested. And Ron I will remember all your info and make sure I don't fall into the screwdriver suggestion that you left out and Ron-NYC made aware of. Thanks again I will let you know what happens I plan on attacking it again today. Also I would like to ask I tried to find it on the manual but it does not say what the purpose is of this bulb but mine does not light up and its not the bulb, bulb was checked but it is a two pin miniature bulb #19 6.3v it is located on the switch assembly/interlock assy. What is the purpose other than to light area or does it have another purpose. Thanks again
Wayne

Wayne,
Two things--
1. You are getting Rob-NYC mixed up with me "Ron Rich"--we are two different people-- and I much prefer the "Rube Goldburg" handbook over the "Gepetto Mook" handbook-- ( "Goldburg" advises, "iffin it don't fit,get a bigger hammer")
2. That mini bi pin lamp had better not be a # 19--it should be a # 12, and is in the speed change circuit.
Ron Rich

Hello Ron,
I am sorry, yes it was a #12 Bulb okay I see where it goes but is it supposed to be lit all the time or just when speed changes ie 45/33 1/3 . Because mine is not lit and i was going to check that pancake capacitor that its conected to or the coil that the two prongs come off. But thank you for the info I am guessing that this bulb stayed lit all the time. And both Ron's humor is keeping me laughing while I am not trying to pull my hair out trying to trouble shoot this Wurlitzer 2810.
Wayne

Hi Wayne,
Nope--youz attempting to fix somethin whut's not broke ! Lights only as the coil is energized to "shift" into the 33 rpm position ( and then, like my mind --"dimly"--if I remember write---) Ron Rich

Ron,
Thank you again i did not see a reference in the manual might have missed it and going crazy trying to trouble shoot it. I am still tring to get numbers 6-0 working otherwise everything else and the bulb is working perfect. Also if anyone knows how to replace the light diffuzer on the 2810 please let me know, the one on the machine is too dirty to let light pass through and when i clean it, it destroys the colored sheets and leaves me a yellowish plastic. I cut a piece of lexan an measured the colored vinyl sheets and trying to find the same colored sheets locally instead of ordering online. I'm in Texas so I'm searching local craft stores possibly. I was told you can find them in sheets or rolls. If anyone has suggestion please let me know. Thanks again Ron, and Ron-NYC you have been a great asset.
Wayne

Wayne, I use theatrical lighting gel made by Rosco:

http://www.rosco.com/us/products/lighting.cfm Check locally for "Theatrical Supply" etc.

I had a lot left over after my work on and off B'Way as T-D and lighting director. The Roscolux handles the fluorescent lamps UV component reasonably well and in 24-7 service it's good for about 4-5 years. It will gradually fade and get brittle, but using theater gels gives you a lot more choices.

BTW: I do recommend replacing the ballasts and adding a fuse of about 1-1/2 amp slow on the line to the ballasts.

-Rob-/NYC