Help Needed: Sears Silvertone Stereo Console Restoration

Hello all,

My name is Sam, and I have recently purchased an old stereo console from the local Goodwill for $60. This is an item from an era before my time (I'm 25) , but being somewhat of an audiophile, I took it upon myself to aspire to fixing this thing up. I've run into an issue though.

The record changer model # is 3076 Colonial, and printed inside the console is "Sears Silvertone Integrated Circuits." Basically, everything worked decently when I got it home and plugged it in, with the exception of two things: One, turning any knobs made scratchy noises (I've fixed this), and two, the record changer, though it came on and began to turn, played almost inaudibly through the speakers. What makes it worse is that after I cleaned the pots, I can't get a record to turn at all now, it just doesn't start spinning when I flip the "manual" switch.

What I would like to do would be to somehow look at the "innards" of the changer, and I have read that the platter needs to be removed to do this, but I can't seem to find out how (and I don't want to break something.) Does anyone here know how I would go about this? Like I said, I have never even seen a record player, much less tried to restore one. I can build computers, but this isn't exactly the same

Any help at all is appreciated, I could very easily be overlooking an obvious thing.

Invest some money and find a local tech that's experienced in such work.
That's what people did when they had a problem with their consoles.

Of course even back then there were some that tried to "fix" their stuff by themselves.
The results were dismal at times.
Such as spraying WD40 into things, as I suspect you did.

You've now got aging issues against you, and more is involved - AKA Major Restoration.

That you"ve never seen a phonograph let alone repaired one is concerning,however it is yours to repair or break so with that in mind look for a small snap or "E" ring at the base of the spindle and remove it. Then the platter can be lifted off but if you don't know what you are looking at what then? Any way I am all for learning "how to" so look for a motor that is seized (unlikely) or a rubber idler that has dried out (most likely) and needs either cleaned with alcohol, rubber rejuvinator, or rebuilt. That said, the entire changer should be cleaned and lubed and it is critical for one to know what to lube and what NOT to lube. Only experience or a repair manual will tell. Also, given the age of this stereo I am sure it will require a recapping which will involve replacing all electrolytic capacitors and any other component that is found out of spec. If you are serious about diving into the vinyl then consider seeking a qualified tech or enlist the help of someone who is qualified as this is an investment and you may not be able to stop at only one record player.

Well I apologize for the lack of experience in such things that has resulted in such a waste of time for you guys. I'll go ask some other folks or just "break it myself."

P.S. I used a minimal amount of contact cleaner to clean the pots, not WD40. The information that you guys did give between all of the supposed criticism is appreciated.

Thanks,
Sam

Update: I followed your instructions on the removal of the platter and have discovered the issue. The problem is that the large belt-driven "cog that turns the platter" is missing several teeth and was snagged in a position that was not letting it turn. My only guess is that it is so horribly gummed up on the inside that my running it for a few minutes probably put a nail in the coffin.

Either way, thanks for the help, all.

Sam

If you can work on computers you can replace the capacitors easily enough yourself. Capacitors don't age well and when they go they usually take out an expensive component with them. That shouldn't run more than a few $$. So on any site that deals with vintage electronics the first rule is replace the electrolytics. See "justradios.com" for help on this and there are other sites that deal with recapping also. As for the changer, only pictures would help. The missing teeth? That is the way it is supposed to be, most likely. That's the change cycle release position. I know of no large belt driven cog on a turntable but then I've not seen every changer made. There is probably nothing wrong with this changer that a good cleaning and lubrication won't fix. Again, pictures would help

If you have a few minutes look around this site and take notice of how many folks join and ask "how do I fix this?" and then when we help them out we never hear from them again. "Drive-by posters" I call them. They simply are not serious about this hobby. We want to know how it all worked out and of course we want to see pictures, pictures, pictures. But, all too often a Drive-by will post a question, we answer the best we can and we never hear from him again, so yes some posters are wasting our time. Present company excepted. If you are serious about this stereo go for it. It will prove to be a rewarding experience. If you break something while attempting a repair then you are no different than me. That's how I learned how not to... I suggested seeking a qualified tech because you can benefit from their experience. I have a dear friend who is a retired audio tech and when we get together I learn a thing or two everytime. If you just want it repaired so that you may enjoy it and don't want to invest any time in learning how it works, that's fine. But you will need to find a good service tech. At any rate, let us know of your progress. Best.

Tom, is it possible for you to remove the platter and take a pic.

I ask because changers have a large gear with teeth missing that engage the center gear on the turntable shaft only when 'jogged " by the trip mechanism.

Usually a belt drive table the belt couples directly from the motor pulley to the platter itself -no gears involved.

Rob/NYC

Rob,
I think Sam is looking at a typical rim drive changer with the type of trip mechanism you describe. That is why I asked for him to post a few pics. It will make it easier to help him out.

Ok, I'll put some pictures up as soon as I get home. I actually came to a few conclusions last night after I responded in the excitement, my biggest fear was that I would break something getting the platter off, but it was exactly as you said.

You're right, the cog is not what turns the platter, the wheel on the side is what turns the platter (idler wheel is what this is called?) I looked at it some more (the cog) and it seems to power the "changer arm" and such from the turning of the platter. I'll get some pics for you asap, you'll see how dirty it is inside hehe

Sorry, I'm a little late. I work 48 hours a week and I go to school in the mornings, so I forget sometimes. BUT I have a day off on Monday from school and work, so it's my plan to tinker with this thing, and I'm looking forward to it.

So here are the pics; let me know if these aren't what you're looking for.

-Sam

Also, notice in the second picture that gap you called the "change cycle release position," does that look as it should?

There is no real way to determine the condition of a record changer by online photos.
Binding, bent, or damaged parts are imposible to determine.
It's really got to be on a tech's bench to see what is up with things.
As for the cycle gear, the toothless gap should be directly facing the platter spindle - the neutral position.

Well, what I think is cool is that you're only 25 and have never seen a record player, but are interested. There's more to life than iPods and MP3 stuff out there, and I applaud you, as a young person, for even considering the older technology.

If you can build computers, then I'm hoping you know how to use a soldering gun, read schematics, check voltages etc. At least that gives you an advantage to some degree, BUT...when it comes to those old record changers, it's a different ball game. All mechanical...cogs, idler wheels, linkages, springs, adjustments/tweaking, yadda-yadda.

I would have a professional service it and, in the meantime, find a cheap beat-up changer and pick it apart just to see what all the stuff does under the platter and on the underside if you wanna see what makes things tick...if you're really curious. Time permitting, checkout the old postings here and the wealth of knowledge will bowl you over. Maybe go to Magnavoxfriends and download a record player repair manual to give you a feel on what makes these things tick.

A complete amateur here, but I've repaired many consoles over the years and given them away to coworkers and friends, replacing semiconductors and such, only charging for the occasional needle and/or cartridge, and haven't had any complaints. It's just a HOBBY, and have no desire to do it for a living. I had a Silvertone console and gave it away to a friend...it had a VM (Voice of Music) record changer.

Please, I am not encouraging you to do your original repair yourself. Let a PROFESSIONAL handle that, but, if you're nosey like me, want to see what makes it tick. Hopefully, you'll catch the "bug" and really cut loose.

Record players are truly fascinating, and if you wanna go abit further, try out some reel-to-reel tape recorders. What they capture is awesome --BB

Bobby Basham
Tucson, Arizona

What is happening here looks pretty common with these old changers. The position of the white gear shows that is has begun the changing/arm return cycle. When this happens a mechanical load is placed on the turntable motor and if the rubber idler puck is oily, or hardened to the point where it won't grip the inner rim of the platter it slips and things come to a halt.

As it is, try turning the white gear -counterclockwise- the way the turntable gear would till you get the gear to come all the way around and back to the cutout (at rest) portion.

You might try first cleaning the rubber puck surfaces with a rough cloth and water. Rubbing alcohol can be used to remove oil and grime on both rubber and the inside of the platter -but use it sparingly as it can further dry out the rubber.

If it still slips to the point of stopping you can remove the puck and try roughing it up a bit with a piece emery board, a fine file or fine sandpaper. Use a moist cloth to remove any left over grit and don't over do it. the idea here is to just remove a glazed or dried out and hardened surface and restore a better grip. You must be doubly careful in this case since the are two pucks involved and reducing the size of either or both will cause slower rotation.

There are rubber rejuvenating liquids and "non slip" treatments that can help old rubber last a while longer. Look up "phono non slip" by GC Electronics.

If you feel up to it, try removing the entire changer so that you can add a --drop-- of oil to the top and bottom motor shafts. A few drops on the center turntable shaft is also indicated and one on the idler puck shaft. Be sure to wipe away any excess so that it doesn't contaminate rubber surfaces.

Most other surfaces inside a changer should remain clean and dry, however the main cam connected to that gear may have a synthetic lube on it, such as Lithium grease and if that is dried out adding new, similar grease will help things run smoothly.

The general rule here is: if it ain't oiled -don't oil it.---And don't force anything!

Rob/NYC

Rob,and All,
IMHO, I don't think that to "add grease" to anything is a good idea. What I do is remove all of the old "stuff" first, as sometimes "new grease" will combine with the old grease, into a sticky, gummy mess, sometimes referred to as "glue". Ron Rich