Help for AY160 Adjustments needed

I acquired an AY160 cabinet with a bunch of parts. I have it mostly together (it looks like I am missing the AutoSpeed Unit though.

1) DO I need the AutoSpeed Unit?
2) I am adjusting the mech, and need to know how I get it into PLAY on the Left Side, and Play on the Right Side of the record. I have used the trip switch before, but is there a trick to get it on right or left side? I have the manuals, and Ron Rich's Mechanism Guide (Ron, it made it all make sense!).
3) Is there a manual for the coin mechanism? If so, who sells it?

Looking forward to get this 360 pounder working like it did 5 0 years ago!

You didn't give a name so I'll respond in general.

No, you don't need the speed unit. The mech is native 45 and the speed unit is only needed if you want to use 33's

2) I am adjusting the mech, and need to know how I get it into PLAY on the Left Side, and Play on the Right Side of the record. I have used the trip switch before, but is there a trick to get it on right or left side? I have the manuals, and Ron Rich's Mechanism Guide (Ron, it made it all make sense!).

I don't mean to be condescending here, but this question tells me that you don't fully understand what is going in that mechanism.

The tonearm assembly will shift to the proper side depending on which direction the mech is scanning when it trips.

If you want to just make it shift: Pull up the trip lever and and shift the reversing switch paddle at the same time.

As far as adjustments, go easy here. Other than slight adjustment and cleaning of the detent and cam switches NO mechanical adjustments should be needed unless the machine has had parts replaced or been monkeyed with.

I have several 50's Seeburgs on location, some for well over twenty years (1986 the oldest). With the exception of two machines where I rebuilt the clutches and occasional contact resets, no other readjustments have yet been needed.

Rob/NYC

Rob,

Thank you for the info. I knew the direction of the mech affected left/right A/B sides of record, but I didn't put it together with the adjustments.

Right now, I am basically adjusting things so nothing rubs, grabs, or pulls unless it is supposed to.

From the reading, it seems like the seeburgs should last a lifetime in home use (as long as I lubricate it!)

The temps are dropping to the low 80's tomorrow (down from > 100), so I will be able to get back in the garage during the day, and finish up, and install & see what happens.

I appreciate your time!

The tone arm will only shift if it is free--if "gummed up" it will refuse to shift. One word of caution here--on NEWER phonographs, you do not ever want to "flip the reversing switch", as nine times out of ten, it WILL damage (ruin) the ("new style") read out contacts !! ( Once again --do not axk !!)
Ron Rich

Ron,
The tone arm seems to be moving freely. It looks like there is a damping action when
the tone arm returns from Play. Is that normal, or dirt?

Is 1960 considered a "newer" phonograph? The reversing switch is on the front, and only
moves a leaf switch. OK to switch manually?

Ron is talking about the machines from the 70's just prior to the elimination of the Tormat. On those the old style plungers were replaced with torsion type "fingers" and the block hit a post at the end of carriage travel that mechanically shifted one finger up and the other down.

If the mech is reversed w/out reversing the fingers there is a good chance they'll get mangled on the Tormat rivets by plowing into them.

Phooey -to "progress".

The only good thing about that arrangement was getting the readout voltages away from the line voltages on the front reversing switch.

Rob