Seeburg USC2 - Tormat contacts

So - like - being one of those people who jump right into something without reading the entire list of instructions I'd like to ask if I hosed my Tormat...

When cleaning my USC2 (just sucking out hair, mouse droppings, spider webs, wiping down stuff, etc) I noticed that everything in the interior was covered in a fine layer of gummy/slow lubricant on _everything_

So, I started wiping things down and I pulled the 'thing' off the top of the tormat that has the 2 rows of contacts that the mechanism scans across with the dual leaf/feet.

These too were very dirty, grimmy and covered in gunk (it looks like someone hosed down the insides with WD40 or something.) So, I started to clean the contacts with um... my Dremel wire cup? Man - I got those little contacts so shiny and clean! And THEN I read Ron's microlog that said "DO NOT USE ANYTHING ABRASIVE ON THE CONTACTS THEY ARE GOLD PLATED!" OOPS?

So, the plating is gone, the contacts are nice and clean (sans the gold plating) and the leafs still seem to make good (physical) contact. However, did I completely destroy the ability for this juke to work?? I'm currently troubleshooting the 'scans twice and stops' symptom (which was present before AND after I brutally scrubbed the contacts.) So, I'm hoping I didn't just F myself

Well, you did yourself no favor-- You will need to re-clean them more often--unless you ground them down too low--
I have a few of those TMU' left--NOS--I think-- Ron Rich

i didn't grind them - just a quick brushing.

Apparently, I've done everything that the microlog manual says NOT to do - like unplug the keypad while the juke is one, pulled the credit programming card while the juke was on, etc.

This was all before I got the troubleshooting guide

So, right now, I'm working the scan/picks nothing issue with the microlog guide.

I'm trying to figure out how to get to the detent switch (or what I think the switch is) do I have to pull the mech from the rail?

Absolutely not ! The detent switch is the one down low, next to the motor--whole thing is held on with either two screws (early version) or two nuts. Little bit tricky to get back on if screws were used--- Do you have a Service manual ? Great "pix" of it in there--
Ron Rich

No service manual - I ordered the USC1 and USC2 supplement but they have not made it to me yet.

I'm still working the 'scan twice - no detent' problem. One thing I've noticed that has remained constant is that the '2' light is always light no matter what. When I select a record or just start the mech - the 2 is always lit. I never see the 1 light up for my selection. I'll see the numbers light as the mech scans but the 2 always stays on.

The #2 lamp staying lit, indicates a blown driver inside the DTP-1. That problem is usually the result of the incorrect lamp being inserted in that socket--and the resistor is probably bad now also--check ALL lamps as per my Trouble Shooting Guide. Unless you know how to use "static protection" I suggest that you should not attempt any repairs inside either the DTP, or DRD, as just opening them can destroy the main LSI (which is NLA).
Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:The #2 lamp staying lit, indicates a blown driver inside the DTP-1. That problem is usually the result of the incorrect lamp being inserted in that socket--and the resistor is probably bad now also--check ALL lamps as per my Trouble Shooting Guide. Unless you know how to use "static protection" I suggest that you should not attempt any repairs inside either the DTP, or DRD, as just opening them can destroy the main LSI (which is NLA).
Ron Rich

It looks like it's already been opened. Are these repairable?

Yes--I do repair them--contact me off list, if you wish--
Ron Rich

Done - shot you an email.

-A