Seeburg L100 -Trials and Tribulations w/the Cancel Solenoid

OK--take a photo of the coil stop--inside--and be sure to re-adjust the coil position according to specs.
Ron Rich

Ron - That is the coil stop on the lower right-hand corner.
It's the plate that covers the end of the coil winding.

I do not see the stop--I see the plunger and the coil, and the front "coil frame", but not the rear one--

Top Bracket goes over the solenoid, the bottom bracket goes on the bottom end.
The cup is concaved to the shape of the plunger.

Perhaps a bad picture? Can you see the two frames on the right side. One has a hole for the plunger to go through. The other a plug.

Nope--only part of the one with the hole--

somehow my earlier post did not post--
I need to see inside the stop, to see what the brass portion looks like--if bad--plunger will "hang"--

Sorry...
Maybe this one...

Yes--that's it--but it looks OK ??
In which case, I am out of answers
Ron Rich

One other thought --did you "read" all contacts with an analog, NOT digital, meter ?
Ron Rich

It does look okay doesn't it, and it's clean inside.
Well.... I've only one thing left to try.
I'm going to lengthen the spring up a bit to lighten the pull on the timing relay.
I'm thinking that the coil might be a bit weak. I don't have any weights to push down on it.
To answer your question.... why in the world did I throw away my old Simpson 260? lol
And no, I'm using a Fluke DVM.

Well, if that isn't interesting.
It's working now.
At first there was a 1-2 second buzz before the buttons popped, and then it quit all together.
I was trying not to mess with the spring, but giving it a little stretch seems to have worked.
Or, it was a combination of a couple of things I did tonight, along with that.
It would seem I was on the edge of getting it....
Thanks Ron!
I'll cross my fingers. I'll let it cool off, and fire it up tomorrow.

Working!
Now to fine tune those snap, crackles, and pops when the carrier is searching for the record selection.

Glad you gottit!
For "poping"---
Check the mechanism wiring--look at the terminal strip on the front left--Starting from the BOTTOM, count up to number 5. If there is not a 2 watt resistor there--let me know--check the ground screw tightness (terminal # 1).
Check the detent switch, for dirty/burned , pitted contacts. Also check gap, and wipe-- set as per manual--check the contact plungers, for "flatness" and silver left-- and alignment, as per manual.
Then look at your AVC board--Check C-171--it should be a .22x400. Check R-186--it should be a 6.8meg.
Check the power amp board schematic/board itself. Find test point # J-257 and R-263 (10 meg). Once located, see if there is a 10k between the 10 meg and pin 7 of the 12AX-7 tube. If not, cut the trace, and bridge the cut with the 10 K.
If all of the avove is correct, the poping will dis-appear !
Ron Rich

Ron;
Yes, on the 2-watt resistor, it's a 2.2Kohm one.
Yes, on the tightness of the ground screw.
The detent switch was mighty filthy. I didn't know that guy was back there. Cleaned it.
Not easy! That was a hard one to reach. lol
AVC board, check.
Power Amp Board - nope, no 10K resistor between pin 7 of 12AX7 and the 10Mohm resistor.
Will locate a resistor tomorrow.

-Put in the resistor, still crackling.
I noticed that the unit had no ground wire. I've since added one, and ran a ground wire to the metal frame, and up to the carriage.