Seeburg 100R Selection Unit Rebuild

Hey! First post here. Glad to be part of the group. My question:
I have a 1954 Seeburg R. Based upon info. I read here, my first step before firing her up (just got her) was to get the amp/selection receiver rebuilt. A gentleman local to me, who runs his own jukebox repair/rental company, advised that he could rebuild the amp and would make sure the selection receiver functioned properly (for $250). He advised there's no real need to rebuild the selection receiver, even though it's in original condition (original caps, etc.). I've seen other amps he's rebuilt, and it looked clean.

Is that OK?

If you are re selling the "R" then that's ok If you are going to keep it for yourself than go the extra expense to have the WSR re capped and contacts cleaned in the stepper etc

Hi Carl,
IMHO, there is no need to rebuild the WSR-7--if you are not planning to use a wallbox. However, I strongly urge you to check the fuses, to be sure only the correct size and type are installed. I also suggest that the 20x50 cap on the tube socket should be changed. The CCU should also be cleaned, and the caps replaced, IMHO. Ron Rich

Thanks Ron & Everyone!
I have a follow-up question, if you'd be so kind. Turns out my Juke is an hf100r-d. From reading the manual & schematics, it appears the only difference is the coin mechanism. While working on my machine, the tech who ran through the selection receiver said the Credit/Cancel unit was gummed up, and just swapped it with one from another machine (I think he said it was a G or a J?). He advised the units are interchangeable and it would appear from outward glances that he was correct (it seems to fit appropriately, etc.). He hooked it up to what appeared to be an "A" or "B" while I was at his place to show me it worked (at that point, he had it jumpered for Free Play).

I read in my manual that the hf100r-d has a different credit and cancel part number than even the 100r, let alone a G or J. But it also seems in reading through how the mechanism actually works that there would be no difference.

Hi Carl,
The "D" stood for "Dime play". The "slug rejectors" in the "D" model, and all later models were equipped with a "nickel diverter", so that every OTHER nickel would hit the nickel switch, which was "in common" with the dime switch. Some of the CCU's were produced with only two coin coils (dime-quarter), but most had all three, with the third one just "stored"--that, and the "factory setting", was the only difference in part numbers. Those built without the third coin coil, can not be set for all three coin play, unless a coil is added, if was desired to set them for "5 cent per selection". Ron Rich

So basically I just need to take the cover off the CCU, make sure it has the third coil and if so, I should be good to go (outside of any changes needed in the "factory setting")?

Yes-- if you want "5 cent pricing"--if you are OK with 10 cent pricing, nothing need be done, if someone has not "changed it"--- ?? Which"instruction glass" (5 cent, or ten cent) is installed in you phono ? Ron Rich

Ron Rich wrote:Yes-- if you want "5 cent pricing"--if you are OK with 10 cent pricing, nothing need be done, if someone has not "changed it"--- ?? Which"instruction glass" (5 cent, or ten cent) is installed in you phono ? Ron Rich

LOL. None at the moment. It was apparently broken or otherwise removed. Got some ugly brown veneered "stuff" in its place. I have the slug rejector and all coin components below that, including the original cloth bag (neat!), but none of the coin mech above the rejector (I think I'm just missing the chute, but not sure yet. Doesn't seem to be a good blowup in the manual that I've found thus far). I was going to see if I could find a model number on the slug rejector tonight to verify it's the right one per the manual for the 100r-d. I'm keen on trying to get it back to be at least able to accept coins for some odd reason.

Hi Carl,
You can't go by "part number" on the slug rejector--Seeburg, like all other juke makers, purchased those from an outside source. Just look at the "bottom" of it--does it have a "nickel flipper" ( one nickel goes to the left, next to the right) ? If so, it's correct--if not, it will probably work, as someone no doubt has "modified it" by this time to return nickels.

Just a quick update:I was excited to finally hear this juke play tonight! The mechanism is in serious need of degreasing, but I was able to get it to scan and play (with some manual intervention). The arm that raises the record into the mech is SO gummed up, the record doesn't get into the proper playing position. I also found two brushes loose around the tone arm. One jammed up the tone arm but i was able to remove it. Still got to figure out if those were necessary or someone didn't know what they were doing.

No update on the slug rejector. It seems to work well mechanically, but I need to learn more about its function to determine if there are switch adjustments needed. I might also have a tweeter that needs to be reconed. It was scratchy compared to the others, but it also seems to have a cap on it that I haven't tested.

Oh, and it appears I have no selection cancel switch, at least a functioning one. There is a toggle switch on the back of the unit, but the wires were clearly cut. Not sure on that one yet.

Anyway, wanted to thank everyone (Ron) for your assistance and can't stand it when people don't provide updates.

Good night!

Carl,
Best advise I can give you--slow down, READ, da books, BEFORE "doing anything else"-- especially "adjustments "!!!
You will save yourself a lot of labor (and maybe $$), plus, you will hurt the phono less !!
Ron Rich

Ron,
Right there with you. Twice. I think it makes sense to degrease then see how things respond. I don't touch SQUAT in terms of adjustment until I understand the function. This thing is VERY greasy, so a good cleaning will do wonders. Then I'll adjust.

Figured a good coat of WD-40 will help, too.

Just kidding!

Carl

Hey Carl,
Are you attempting to start me on a "rant"---WD 40 --ugh !!!!!
READ my Seeburg Mechanism Guide ( which I thank-you for purchasing !)---for the way I "wash" the mech--
Ron Rich

Well, spent the afternoon and early evening cleaning the mech. It cleaned up nicely. Cleaned up nicely.
Unfortunately, the motor coupling was bad and broke when I removed the motor. Going to order one on Monday.

I removed the clutch, degreased it entirely and relubricated it. Does the clutch have to go back in with a special alignment relative to the other gears, etc? Is there a "starting alignment" or do I just reinstall and make sure all is snug together? I naturally moved some of the gears, etc when relubing. Not sure if I need to get them in a special position?

Also, the transfer arm is somewhat slow to move. Relubing it sped it up some. Wondering whether I'm missing a lube point deeper into the mech. Also, since I'm a newb, not sure how zippy it's supposed to be. It doesn't "snap" into place, but it now doesn't drag either.

Overall, a seemingly successful day. Was happy to see that the motor spun freely and there were no missing teeth anywhere.

Carl,
Slow down--READ the mech guide, you paid for !! (thanks !)--it 'splains" how to align the clutch, AND, how the lift arm should operate ( and what to do to "fixit")----
Ron Rich