Seeburg DS160

Hi everyone,
I completed my Wurlitzer 2810. And now i am in the middle of Seebug DS160, and here is the prob lem i am replacing all of the paper lytic capacitors and i saw some kits that were specific for the DS160 and it stated that the most common ones to go bad were in the kit but it did not say which ones were in the kit. Here is my way of tackling the project i was going to replace all of the paper capacitors. Now where im running into a problem is the electronic store says they cannot get them in the same values so they listed close replacements so seeing that the values are not the same should both values be higher or lower on the ratings. I no nothing about what tbe values should be just going on their word that the replacement would be fine. So i wanted the input of all of you that deal with them. And the second question i was told that i could use radio capacitors with the same exact values as the original caps. Any ideas or thoughts or are both directions okay to pursue or is one better than the other. Thanks for info i would really like to get this one running i already had offers for it as is. Thanks again
Wayne

Wayne,
It's best ( and far less expensive, in most cases) if you purchase a "cap kit", designed specifically for that unit.
They are available from Vern Tisdale www.verntisdale.com Ron Rich

Hello Ron and Everyone Else,
I appreciate the information. But also for future references, can radio capacitors be used of the same value(mfd/V). I was told only difference was the wires all came out of one end instead of opposite ends. And just for reference in case if I need a capacitor to get right away locally. What is the rule of thumb on the values since they will not be the same MFD/Voltage do you have to keep the mfd or the voltage under the required capacitor that it was built with, or does it matter. Also sorry if i got the specs wrong I believe its mfd/voltage on the capacitors if not hopefully someone will know what I' m talking about. I appreciate any information that someone can give me. Thanks
Wayne

Wayne,
"Eletrolytic" (aka "Lytic") caps come in two "forms". They are either "axial" --one wire out of each end, or "radial", both wires out of the same end.
"Radio" caps are no different then "other" caps--On replacement Lytic caps, the Mfd value must equal or be greater then the original. The "allowable difference" should be 20 %, but not exceed 100% in most cases. The other value (WV) must be at least the same, and can be ( in most cases) more then 100% higher.
Deciding which type / size to use, in most cases is--"what will fit"--
There are other types of caps--and the "rules" maybe somewhat different, depending on how/where they are used.
HTH,
Ron Rich

Thanks Again Ron,
That cleared it up and now I know they said it was okay but i wanted to make sure for this application. Thanks Again!
Wayne

Wayne,
You are welcome--
On the off chance that you are unaware--Most Lytics are marked either with a + or a -. This varies with the maker, and is NOT uniform ! However, it MUST be considered when replacing them--or you are likely to have an explosion---- Ron Rich

In addition to Ron's point about polarization, if you are rebuilding a Seeburg tube based control unit bear in mind that the DC voltages here are positive-ground.

That means the positive connections of electrolytic caps goes to chassis ground. It also means that the cans at at high potential relative to the chassis. The plastic label on most of these isn't adequate for insulation, especially if inserted into the clips on the Seeburg TSU's so wrap several layers of electrical tape around the cans.

Rob/NYC

Rob, and all,
Quick hint---
Rather than wrapping them in tape, I use heat shrink attached to the clips--neater, and the cap can be read in the future--
Ron Rich

"..and the cap can be read in the future-- "
-Oh a big Hong-Kong Phooey to that....Anyone who hasn't memorized the values and voltages should stick to the -front of the machine only.

Rob

Rob,
I see your point--and agree with it--however, I strive to make my jobs "look as good" as they are--
Hopefully sometime in the next 100 or so years, when something I have rebuilt "craps out"--the Tech, upon seeing it for the first time will have no troubles induced by me-- Ron Rich

Thank you Gentlemen,
I appreciate all the input. I on the other hand am not familiar with the caps. I actually have a TV repair guy that does all my soldering and replacing caps and he mentioned that you had to be aware of the +/- on these so I am guessing he knows what hes doing because he informed me of just what your talking about. I on the other hand just wanted to make sure he knew what he was talking about as myself, and if not so i could ask him about it. But since he works on just about everything electronic he seems to be shooting straight with me everytime. I thank yall again and if i get fustrated in trying to get this DS160 all working I think i will just sell it i got a offer from a local guy that restores jukeboxes that knows alot more than me he wanted it as it sits for himself. But I told him i wanted to give it a shot and try to tackle it myself and see what i can do so far so good. Thanks Again!