drilling through a broken spring

Hi folks,
I'm trying to drill a new hole through a Victor motor spring, but I'm having no luck. I'm using a drill that is supposed to go through metal, but it's not working. Any recommendations on the best bit or technique to use to drill a new hole through a motor spring?
Thanks,
dave in new york

Hi Dave,

The trick is heat. You have to heat the end of the spring before drlling it. I heat the end red hot, and let it cool slowly, to distemper the metal. Once cooled, you should have no trouble. Mark the hole with a centre punch first. Drill it on a piece of wood, and file any burrs from around the hole when your done.

Hi Shane,
Thanks very much for the advice and tip. But I think I still have a problem in that I don't have anything that would heat the steel red hot. Is there another way I can do this? Or, without a blow torch or something like that, what would be the best way for me to heat the metal?
Thanks,
dave

I use a small butane hobby torch- I think it was about $15. As far as I know, heating is the only way to soften the steel enough to allow drilling. You might try rounding the end of the spring off a little with a grinder, which may heat it enough, but I really can't say for sure.

Hi Dave,

If you don't want to fuss with the spring, you can probably get one at APSCO. They are in your neck of the woods (NY) and they sell for around $38.00. It may be worth it in the long run and save a lot of cursing!

antiquephono.com is their website and has all the contact info.

Good luck!!

Bill

Yes, if you have to shorten the spring anymore than a couple inches, it's a good idea to replace the spring. Any more than that, and a single spring motor may not complete one side of a record.

After drilling, the steel must be rehardened, or it will pull loose again. Heat the steel red hot again, and plunge it quickly into an oil bath.

Another way is to use a Dremel abrasive grinding tool. This works on hardened steel.

That would only be necessary if repairing the centre of the spring wouldn't it? A repair to the outer end needs to be softer, to prevent the spring snapping, when it's fully coiled up with the end attached to the barrel?

That depends on whether the steel is thick enough to keep from pulling the hole out. The only one I ever repaired that way was a Columbia.

Dave...,

The spring must be annealed before you can drill it (It must be heated as others have said.)

I would reccomend you find a copy of Eric L. Reiss' The Compleat Talking Machine if you are interested in doing repairs like this. (Yes that's the way complete is spelt in the title.) I have to side with Maroongem. Victor springs aren't uncommon. It would be easier and better, in the long run, to replace the spring. APSCO or George Vollema of Great Lakes Antique Phonograph can assist you.
Let us know how you make out.

Regards,
J.

Hi folks,
Back after a few weeks of setting aside the broken springs and tuning up some motors with intact insides.
I ended up taking the spring into work and asking a maintenance guy to drill a hole through the spring using a drill press. Worked very nicely on three spring...a fourth got split, but it wasn't in real good shape to begin with. After that, I was able to use a titanium bit to widen and shape the hole so it would fit around the barrel tab.
Proof once again that one should always get in good with the maintenance department.
For what it's worth, I picked up a step drill bit and I'm going to see how that works on the next spring that needs a new hole. Should that fail, I shall take up the advice herein and get a torch, which I will use outside with great care.
dave